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littlexj1
March 30th, 2005, 19:31
today when i was trying to put on my custom bumper i broke the top bolt on the steering box. it seems i dont know my own strength. i attempted to drill it out of the box but after i burned up my bit twice i called it quits for the night. i went to the store and bought a new bit but i dont really wanna burn it up....just short of ripping out the box and replacing it (i have one somewhere) does anyone have a quick solution?

rangerjoe2001
March 30th, 2005, 19:44
http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/broken_steering_box_bolt.htm

rangerjoe2001
March 30th, 2005, 19:45
same thing happened to me.. just be patient.. take your time..

littlexj1
March 30th, 2005, 19:49
thank you...i knew there was a method......

littlexj1
March 30th, 2005, 21:32
next question is this gonna be a normaly stocked item....?

rangerjoe2001
March 30th, 2005, 21:52
i broke mine while trying to put on a new bumper so im not sure..

you should be able to find one that is the right size.. im just not sure what size it is

gptrilik
March 30th, 2005, 22:18
You guys sound like you had a lucky break.. I was using new bolts and using a touch too much 'righty tighty' ended up in me drilling out a grade 8 bolt from one of the three threaded holes in the steering box..

Lots of cutting oil, some strong (expensive) drill bits, and time wasted resulted in me using a 1 inch longer bolt with a nut on the end... I never want to do that again....

George Trilikis

PapaPump
March 31st, 2005, 01:39
i went the easy-out route. lots of drilling, real slow progress and lots of pb blaster. i hadn't ever saw that article on rock lizard's before, that looks like a good way but not sure the channel locks would grip a REALLY stuck bolt. i discovered cobalt drill bits after i broke off an easy out. a 1/4 drill bit cost me like $7, hasn't worked for the easy out but i'll bet it would work good on that power steering bolt. i used leftover washers from my Rigid bumper to remount the steering box, as only two of the bolts had pieces of the old aluminum spacer still usable.

xjmatt
March 31st, 2005, 03:56
When I installed my bumper I snapped all 3 of those bolts trying to get them out. Fortunately, they were seized to the aluminum spacer, not the box itself. Just had to pull the whole box, apply heat with a MAPP gas torch to work the spacer loose and then channel locks to back the bolts out. Once I hammered and chiseled the spacer off the bolts came out off the steering box quick and easy. Scary enough they didn't even seem tight but sure as hell were seized to that spacer. Good luck.

Rocketman
March 31st, 2005, 04:47
It is seized to the spacer more than likely. Remove all 3 bolts.Let the gear box hang down. I'll bet the spacer is broken if not, you'll almost have to break it to get the bolt piece out. The bolt is a 4" long 7/16 grade 8. The spacer part number is 52000090. HARD to find, impossible online. Have a dealer check the computer, then can check the closest place that has one. It's about $15

It's a cheap cast aluminum, the 3 metals, al, steel, and the bolt all differnet cause the bolt to fuse to the spacer. By breaking it up, you can twist off the piece over the broken bolt with a vicegrip. It then will expose enough of the bolt to get it out with a vice grip as well.

Dirk Pitt
March 31st, 2005, 05:37
It is seized to the spacer more than likely. Remove all 3 bolts.Let the gear box hang down. I'll bet the spacer is broken if not, you'll almost have to break it to get the bolt piece out. The bolt is a 4" long 7/16 grade 8. The spacer part number is 52000090. HARD to find, impossible online. Have a dealer check the computer, then can check the closest place that has one. It's about $15

It's a cheap cast aluminum, the 3 metals, al, steel, and the bolt all differnet cause the bolt to fuse to the spacer. By breaking it up, you can twist off the piece over the broken bolt with a vicegrip. It then will expose enough of the bolt to get it out with a vice grip as well.

Why would you replace with the same part that is a known problem.

Do yourself a favor and order the C-ROK or JKS STEEL steering box inner plate (and outer).

Rocketman
March 31st, 2005, 07:03
I agree completely.... BUT if $$$ is tight? He may not have the $80 for a C-ROK which is awesome by the way.

PapaPump
March 31st, 2005, 09:33
you can get the inner plate that replaces just the spacer, for $40. that is a much better deal than that $15 piece of sheeat. it is especially reasonable if you have 31" and under tires, in which case I don't really think you need the rest of the system, IMO.

Jeep914x4
January 10th, 2007, 13:56
It is seized to the spacer more than likely. Remove all 3 bolts.Let the gear box hang down. I'll bet the spacer is broken if not, you'll almost have to break it to get the bolt piece out. The bolt is a 4" long 7/16 grade 8. The spacer part number is 52000090. HARD to find, impossible online. Have a dealer check the computer, then can check the closest place that has one. It's about $15

It's a cheap cast aluminum, the 3 metals, al, steel, and the bolt all differnet cause the bolt to fuse to the spacer. By breaking it up, you can twist off the piece over the broken bolt with a vicegrip. It then will expose enough of the bolt to get it out with a vice grip as well.

Mine broke off with about an inch sticking out. I ground it flat on two sides, heated, pb blasted, and cranked with no luck. I landed up buying a used YJ box for $25 from a friend.

I was able to find the appropriate grade 8 bolts at Lowes for much less than $15. Good luck! This can be frustrating... Just take your time.

TomH
January 10th, 2007, 18:06
This can be frustrating... Just take your time.

It's been almost two years. Is that enough time. JK :laugh3: