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"Check Gauges" came on...

dogtired

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Orlando, FL
On my way to work this morning, then all of a sudden my "check gauge" came on. I also noticed my voltage was pegged at 19. It will only go back down to normal when I am stopped at the light. I guess driving will aggravate it make it go spiked up. At the time, I thought the only thing that I didn't do was fill up my washing fluid, which had been empty for weeks, and the "washer fluid" will pop on. :wierd:

It is a 2000 sport. Any suggestions?

:viking:
 
About the only two things I can think of is throw an OBDII reader on the port and see what comes out. Second would be to pull the covers and trim off, unplug the gauge panel, clean the contacts and then reseat it.
 
hey guys thatnks for the feedback, even though it is a bit late... I went to Autozone and they had a OBDII reader, and the parts dude ran the thing for me, and said it looked fine, everything came out normal, but took out a machine to check my battery and alternator. Looks like the original battery and alternator. He had me turn on my lights and A/C at full blast while at 2000 RPM. He said the battery was fine, but the alternator was starting to go bad. It was just below normal specs, I forgot the numbers... 12.5 V? It was about 80% gone he said. Does this sound about right? I will check the gauge panel and the iginition switch next. Thanks for the input.

P.S. How easy to change the alternator? 200 bucks and return the old for the 100 dollar core charge. Is there anything else I need to replace while I am at? My 2000 Jeep is at 62,000 miles. I am comfortable in changing my oil... that's about it. Oh ya, Haynes or Chiltons, I got my Jeep used and didn't have the original maintenance booklet. Thanks alot.

:viking:
 
Last edited:
dogtired said:
Oh ya, Haynes or Chiltons, I got my Jeep used and didn't have the original maintenance booklet. Thanks alot.

:viking:


Neither. I bought the Haynes Manual from Autozone shortly after I purchased my 99, (bought it with 62K as well). With in a week, after I slipped through that thing, it wasn't as detailed as I would like. I recommend the Factory Service Manual. About $108 with tax and all that other mess straight from Chrysler Publications. Best $108 i've ever spent. I could build my own XJ from scratch.......if only I knew a quarter of all that mess in the book...LOL.

I ended up returning the Haynes (very careful not to get sumdges all over it) about a week after I got it. But if you can't afford the FSM, the Haynes is much better than nothing at all.
 
Alt is on the bottom below the battery. You need to loosen the left idler wheel under the PS pump, just a couple of turns then on the bracket that PS pump is on you will see a bolt head that will make you go hmmm. Turn that bolt head and you will see the idler pulley start to move, keep going till you can slip the serp belt off of it. Disconnect your battery and then remove the alternator. Then just reverse everything but leave the battery for last. Might want to have THEM test the alt BEFORE you take it home, save you the trouble of doing it twice. I'm a firm believer of when I replace something I put something better in if it's not to outrageous a price difference so you might consider a much larger alternator in the 150+ amp range.
Some useful items to have: Factory service manual, KrikitII belt tension gauge which is sold by napa, ~$12 [that is where I would get the alt from btw], it will allow you to set the correct 170lbs of tension on the USED belt, new belt gets 190lb.
A serptentine belt removal tool, basically a really long ratchet box type wrench with 4 different ends on it, one of those is the correct size for the idler bolt, 15mm IIRC, because you will find out that most wrenches won't fit between the electric fan and the idler pulley. The snap-on, MAC or Matco tool trucks will have them for about $20-40 bucks, napa might even have one.
Thats about all I can think of off hand other than to say if I was going to pull the belt I would put a new one on as well as a new idler wheel, why do it twice. Stuff like that I always buy from the dealer though because it fits.
 
I had the same problem on my 01. At first I thought it was my battery-changed the stock to a red top. Still pegged at 19 when driving over 40mph. Replaced the alternator (alot of dirt). Better but still pegged at 19 sometimes (OBII-scanned showed no error code). Went back and checked all connections - the problem was a bad ground. Make sure all connections are in good conditions, ground has good contact-recommend ox-gard for all connections. Good Luck.
 
I replaced my altinator last weekend and it wasn't cut and dry. I got a replacement from Auto Zone and it turned out to be too big to fit in the bracket. Once the pivot bolt was installed, the new unit had a larger diameter body which wouldn't allow me to swing it into the bracket far enough to catch the second bolt. I took it back and told them what happend. They pulled another one from the shelf to see if there was a mix-up. The second unit was the same as the first. I left there and found a Bosch altinator at Pep Boys for a few dollars cheaper. It was identical to the OEM. It turns out it wasn't my current problem that I still have. :rattle:
 
Oh cool, thanks Rich for the advice, sorry I was at St Pete Florida assisting my camera friend on a Jib doing camera work for Indy racing this past weekend. Being at the infield (no man's land) surrounded by cars and Formula ones going triple digits is way awesome.Click here :laugh3:

I will try to stop by at Napa after work and pick up that alternator and krikit tension guage as well as the removal tool. The idler wheel is only at the dealership? Why is the idler wheel needs to be changed at the same time? Wears out prematurely? Thanks for all the help. :wave:

:viking:

RichP said:
Alt is on the bottom below the battery. You need to loosen the left idler wheel under the PS pump, just a couple of turns then on the bracket that PS pump is on you will see a bolt head that will make you go hmmm. Turn that bolt head and you will see the idler pulley start to move, keep going till you can slip the serp belt off of it. Disconnect your battery and then remove the alternator. Then just reverse everything but leave the battery for last. Might want to have THEM test the alt BEFORE you take it home, save you the trouble of doing it twice. I'm a firm believer of when I replace something I put something better in if it's not to outrageous a price difference so you might consider a much larger alternator in the 150+ amp range.
Some useful items to have: Factory service manual, KrikitII belt tension gauge which is sold by napa, ~$12 [that is where I would get the alt from btw], it will allow you to set the correct 170lbs of tension on the USED belt, new belt gets 190lb.
A serptentine belt removal tool, basically a really long ratchet box type wrench with 4 different ends on it, one of those is the correct size for the idler bolt, 15mm IIRC, because you will find out that most wrenches won't fit between the electric fan and the idler pulley. The snap-on, MAC or Matco tool trucks will have them for about $20-40 bucks, napa might even have one.
Thats about all I can think of off hand other than to say if I was going to pull the belt I would put a new one on as well as a new idler wheel, why do it twice. Stuff like that I always buy from the dealer though because it fits.
 
The idlers are just free spinning rollers, it's a good idea and cheap insurance to replace them whenever doing a belt. If it seizes up it will destroy the belt in quick order.
 
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