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Fabbed myself some swaybar discos today... *lots of pics*

Timmay

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Marlton, NJ
I had been running the stock links at 3.5" lift for a while now and I was starting to get tired of unbolting them to play. About a week ago one of the links snapped, so I took the whole swaybar off. It wasn't too bad until I had to make an emergency lane change at 65mph. I knew I had to come up with something I could do for cheap yet be effective and strong. This is what I came up with.

Parts I used:
4 - stock XJ swaybar links with bushings
2 feet - 5/8" threaded rod
2 feet - 1" x 3/16" flat bar
2 - 5/8" x 2" coupler nuts
2 - 5/8" nuts to act as jamnuts
2 - 1/2" hitch pins
2 - 1/2" x 2.5" bolts with washers and nuts

This came to a total of $12.96 at the "local" steel yard. Stock links I had lying around.

Anyway, pics.

What I started with. The stud is pressed into the lower swaybar mount with splines. What a bitch to remove. I cut off the torx head and beat it back and forth with a punch and hammer until it popped out.

CIMG0579.jpg


10 second timer on the camera = sparks shooting at it.
CIMG0583.jpg


Pic of the splines.
CIMG0587.jpg


The bottom mount is now going to be double sheared. This is where I used the 1" flatbar. I basically made an extension of the existing mount and welded it to anything it was close to. The washer is to add some space to allow the bushing to slide in and out easily.
CIMG0590.jpg


Here's a much better pic from the driver side.
CIMG0640.jpg


I had to clearance it some so it cleared the TRE on the tie rod. Should be good now.
CIMG0592.jpg


Welded on. You can see the hitch pin is way too long. I drilled a new hole for the retaining pin and cut it down.
CIMG0597.jpg


It is now short enough to where I can slide it in from the driver's side. Before trimming it would hit the steering stabilizer. In the end I had to put it in from the pass side anyway because the handle contacted the TRE on the tie rod again.
CIMG0601.jpg


Here's the peices. From top to bottom we have : 1/2" bolt, stock swaybar link lower bushing, coupler nut, jamnut, 5/8" allthread, another stock swaybar link lower bushing, and the shortened hitch pin.
CIMG0604.jpg


This is the upper mount. I actually made this out of 1/4" plate before I got the 1" flatbar. It doesn't really matter though. I just made a U shape around the stock bushing and welded it all together. Then I welded the stock swaybar link upper stud to the top of the U and installed it as shown.
CIMG0606.jpg


Everything mocked up and tacked in place. I made the main link section 6 1/8" long. That was with the coupler nut threaded as far down the allthread as it can go. I am adding 2" spacers to the front sometime in the future, so I added in 1.75" of adjustability with the coupler nut.
CIMG0608.jpg


Welded up.
CIMG0644.jpg


CIMG0611.jpg


Welds look decent enough to hold a swaybar link together.
CIMG0612.jpg


Installed...
CIMG0619.jpg


CIMG0621.jpg

CIMG0627.jpg


Disconected. I'll be making some DPG style swaybar retainers in the near future.
CIMG0625.jpg


Looks better painted eh?
CIMG0632.jpg


All finished. The jeep is leaning to the pass side. I think it is from when my driver's side coil unseated and rotated under flex. It sits on top of the coil perch instead of in it. The driver's side disco is adjusted 1" longer than the passenger side for now.
CIMG0648.jpg


The pic makes this look like its on a crazy angle. Its more like 3-5 degrees.
CIMG0651.jpg



Thoughts? Questions?
 
CIMG0583.jpg

i like making sparks fly to..
but u do know those bolts could've been knocked out w/ a BFH.. ;)

anyway looks good!!
 
I do have some advise for you. Everything looks good except one thing. That thread all may not be strong enough. Trust me on this, as I made links using thread all a while ago. Work good, but the thread all bent on one of the links while crossing a small ditch. That stuff is really soft metal.
Now, don't get discouraged as there is an easy way to fix this. What I did, and I suggest to you, is to get a few more of the couplers that you have the thread all screwed into, and screw them all the way down the thread all, until it is all covered. Use a nut or two if you need just a little more length. This easily doubles the strength of the thread all, and you still have the adjustabilty. Just have to take the couplers off to add or subtract length. Since I have done this, I have had no strength issues, and that was over 2 years ago.
HTH
 
TRL WGN 1 said:
I do have some advise for you. Everything looks good except one thing. That thread all may not be strong enough. Trust me on this, as I made links using thread all a while ago. Work good, but the thread all bent on one of the links while crossing a small ditch. That stuff is really soft metal.
Now, don't get discouraged as there is an easy way to fix this. What I did, and I suggest to you, is to get a few more of the couplers that you have the thread all screwed into, and screw them all the way down the thread all, until it is all covered. Use a nut or two if you need just a little more length. This easily doubles the strength of the thread all, and you still have the adjustabilty. Just have to take the couplers off to add or subtract length. Since I have done this, I have had no strength issues, and that was over 2 years ago.


HTH

nice job! the best way to stop it from bending would be to just sleeve it with 1/8" wall tubing, cut it in half then re tack weld it together over you new disco all thread. no worries then
 
Nice hoodie. :D
 
i've said it before.......hi buck disco's are a waste of money. Nice low buck approach, go out and use em and let us know how they hold up.
 
XJEEPER said:
i've said it before.......hi buck disco's are a waste of money. Nice low buck approach, go out and use em and let us know how they hold up.


talk about high buck solutions, i saw the new discos by Nth degree at the EJS vendor booth...
fancy CAD aluminum cam-style discos. *very* slick but i think i heard the guy say ~$200...
:wierd:

i see they're not on their website yet.
 
TRL WGN 1 said:
I do have some advise for you. Everything looks good except one thing. That thread all may not be strong enough. Trust me on this, as I made links using thread all a while ago. Work good, but the thread all bent on one of the links while crossing a small ditch. That stuff is really soft metal.
Now, don't get discouraged as there is an easy way to fix this. What I did, and I suggest to you, is to get a few more of the couplers that you have the thread all screwed into, and screw them all the way down the thread all, until it is all covered. Use a nut or two if you need just a little more length. This easily doubles the strength of the thread all, and you still have the adjustabilty. Just have to take the couplers off to add or subtract length. Since I have done this, I have had no strength issues, and that was over 2 years ago.
HTH

I was going to go the tube sleeve route. Although the couplers are so freakin cheap and easy I might do that. Thanks for the tip.

IdeaMan said:
You might want to fab up some front tow points now.

I just sold my front bumper last week. Tonight i'm starting on a hitch/shackle mount that retains the factory bumper (for now).

Here's a pic of the old bumper.

P1010178.sized.jpg


It stuck out too far. Eventually I will ditch whats left of the stock bumper in favor of some 1/8" plate.
 
xjnation said:
nice job! the best way to stop it from bending would be to just sleeve it with 1/8" wall tubing, cut it in half then re tack weld it together over you new disco all thread. no worries then

Don't even need to cut it in half. The discos can be unthreaded like so...

CIMG0613.jpg
 
WOW those rock....

Just more reasoning for me to go spend 2-300$ to buy that 110 MIG I've been dreaming of instead of wasting it on parts that are easy to fab...

Green for your ingenuity!
 
Citat3962 said:
WOW those rock....

Just more reasoning for me to go spend 2-300$ to buy that 110 MIG I've been dreaming of instead of wasting it on parts that are easy to fab...

Green for your ingenuity!

Do it. I've saved lots of money by getting a welder. Especially when you break something, like a lower shock mount on your rear axle.
 
That looks great. Is learning to weld all that difficult if I had a book on it and an experienced friend to do some watching?
 
riverfever said:
That looks great. Is learning to weld all that difficult if I had a book on it and an experienced friend to do some watching?


take a class fromt a community college. that is what me and BillR, did, learned alot
 
Good suggestion. I'll look into it that. Thanks.
 
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