can someone direct me to an article that cover this...my hard line nuts looked pretty bad and after the wrench rounded them i deemed them shot! i was thinking of getting those piece together lines with the end already attached but i think if i get new nuts and reflare the ends i'll be ok....what do you guys think?
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
Flaring brake lines
- Thread starter littlexj1
- Start date
- Location
- Terra Firma
I don't know any article that covers this. The best write-up I've seen is the instructions that came with my double-flare tool kit.
Your profile doesn't say what year XJ you have, but my advice would be "forget it." Old hard lines get rusty and brittle. Trying to re-flare old tube is risky. It's bstter to replace if possible. Especially if you're working with the rear axle tubes, which are very exposed to crud and are probably rusted pretty badly.
Your profile doesn't say what year XJ you have, but my advice would be "forget it." Old hard lines get rusty and brittle. Trying to re-flare old tube is risky. It's bstter to replace if possible. Especially if you're working with the rear axle tubes, which are very exposed to crud and are probably rusted pretty badly.
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
interested as well - but to redo the hardline on my ford 9 rear end...
-Ranger
-Ranger
HodgePodge
NAXJA Member #987
- Location
- Duluth, Minnesota
First suggestion is to get a set of flare nut wrenches. Saves you tons of time with stripped flare nuts.
Second tip, take your time. Rushing through a flare only makes you cut it off and redo it. For example, I had to redo mine a couple times, first try I forgot to put the nut on. Second try, I wasn't paying attention and made the first flare too long. Third try, I was frustrated and rushing and cracked it. Fourth try, I ran to napa and just bought a new line with flared ends.
:repair:
Second tip, take your time. Rushing through a flare only makes you cut it off and redo it. For example, I had to redo mine a couple times, first try I forgot to put the nut on. Second try, I wasn't paying attention and made the first flare too long. Third try, I was frustrated and rushing and cracked it. Fourth try, I ran to napa and just bought a new line with flared ends.
:repair:
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
I second several of the above suggesetions. Get the tool (check out a recent thread on this subject, and get a GOOD tool), read the instructions, and get some scrap pieces of brake line to practice on. Take extra care filing the chamfers on the ends of the tube.
Don't shave pennies trying to reflare old rusty tubing that can easily be replaced. If you must do it, cut it off short where it's clean and accessible, and add a piece, rather than trying to stretch the old piece to fit.
And finally, get a GOOD set of flare nut wrenches. None of that Walmart or chain store crap, even if it's warrantied, and maybe not even Craftsman these days. The fit must be perfectly tight, and the wrench can have no spring in it. Get Snap On or SK - even at 12 bucks or so a wrench it's worth it. Then take lots of time on fittings. Even if the fitting comes loose, if it doesn't rotate on the tube, it will ruin it. It can take a lot of wiggling and back-and-forthing sometimes to get an old rusty fitting off alive.
Don't shave pennies trying to reflare old rusty tubing that can easily be replaced. If you must do it, cut it off short where it's clean and accessible, and add a piece, rather than trying to stretch the old piece to fit.
And finally, get a GOOD set of flare nut wrenches. None of that Walmart or chain store crap, even if it's warrantied, and maybe not even Craftsman these days. The fit must be perfectly tight, and the wrench can have no spring in it. Get Snap On or SK - even at 12 bucks or so a wrench it's worth it. Then take lots of time on fittings. Even if the fitting comes loose, if it doesn't rotate on the tube, it will ruin it. It can take a lot of wiggling and back-and-forthing sometimes to get an old rusty fitting off alive.