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D44 pinion markings?

stoneattic

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Honey Brook, PA
Can anyone decipher the pinion markings here:

pinion.jpg


I believe that the lower number "275" is just the mating number with the ring and the 2 digit number up top has something to do with the depth. I've seen pluses and minuses and numbers like 2.625, but never this kind of marking. Has anyone else? It is new real Dana brand pinion.

TIA!
 
The "0" (zero) is the amount the gear varies from the nominal manufacturing size. The way to determine how much shim you will need to add or subtract is to compare the pinion you took out with the one you put in. If your old gear has a + number that is the lenth it is short from nominal, if it has a - it is long from nominal. A + you would subtract shims to get to "0", a - you would add shims. The number is expressed in thousandths of and inch. 1=.001 shim , 2=.002 bla,bla,bla

This website gives an example of how to determine the shims needed:
http://www.jpmagazine.com/howto/68221/index2.html
 
toryranger said:
The "0" (zero) is the amount the gear varies from the nominal manufacturing size. The way to determine how much shim you will need to add or subtract is to compare the pinion you took out with the one you put in. If your old gear has a + number that is the lenth it is short from nominal, if it has a - it is long from nominal. A + you would subtract shims to get to "0", a - you would add shims. The number is expressed in thousandths of and inch. 1=.001 shim , 2=.002 bla,bla,bla

Lets adjust this slightly. A (+) number indicates the pinion gear is "longer" or sets deeper in to the ring gear than standard or blueprint. A (-) number indicates the pinion is shorter or farther away from the ring gear.

As far as the shimming, you are correct. If the gear has a (+)1 you need to subtract .001" from the shim pack or pinion depth measurement to get to 0.

And further, if your original gear was a (-)1 it was shimmed (+) .001 to get to 0. If you then installed a (+)1 gear, which would require a (-) .001 shim from standard, you would actually remove .002" of shim to return to zero from the existing shim pack.

As far as the gear marking you pictured, the 275 should match up w/ a # stamped on the ring gear OD as you believe. th other marking I would call a (0) variance. The other mark is confusing, but the 0 is what I would refer to. Start there, and then you may have to adjust pinion depth still to get a good pattern.
 
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explorer said:
Lets adjust this slightly. A (+) number indicates the pinion gear is "longer" or sets deeper in to the ring gear than standard or blueprint. A (-) number indicates the pinion is shorter or farther away from the ring gear.

As far as the shimming, you are correct. If the gear has a (+)1 you need to subtract .001" from the shim pack or pinion depth measurement to get to 0.

And further, if your original gear was a (-)1 it was shimmed (+) .001 to get to 0. If you then installed a (+)1 gear, which would require a (-) .001 shim from standard, you would actually remove .002" of shim to return to zero from the existing shim pack.

As far as the gear marking you pictured, the 275 should match up w/ a # stamped on the ring gear OD as you believe. th other marking I would call a (0) variance. The other mark is confusing, but the 0 is what I would refer to. Start there, and then you may have to adjust pinion depth still to get a good pattern.
My bad, I thought the number on the pinion was the variation of the gear lenth from nominal, the FSM states that it is the variation from nominal on the "pinion depth" 2.625.
 
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toryranger said:
My bad, I thought the number on the pinion was the variation of the gear lenth from nominal, the FSM states that it is the variation from nominal on the "pinion depth" 2.625.

I hit quote instead of edit, DUH!!
 
Thanks guys,

So it seems the consesus is that the zero is the the number I should go with. The strange mark before the zero was just confusing the hell out of me.
 
I buy only Dana/Spicer gears whenever possible and they all carry the standard markings.On my 8.25 I had to go with Genuine Gear and your forging looks identical to it,I heard Dana had been re-packaging some other manufacturers gears.
 
RCP Phx said:
I buy only Dana/Spicer gears whenever possible and they all carry the standard markings.On my 8.25 I had to go with Genuine Gear and your forging looks identical to it,I heard Dana had been re-packaging some other manufacturers gears.


Me too. It's got Dana stamped on both the ring and the pinion with the little diamond. Not saying Dana wouldn't stamp someone elses.
 
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