RE lift install

I am installing my RE 3.5 super flex kit today w/ full leaf packs. Any last minute advice? all I am using are the instructions that come with the kit

thanks

Make arrangements for a ride to work on Monday.






















J/K, Good luck with the install

go by the instructions........exactly....make sure everything is in the right way. Dont double work yourself, use WD 40 alot! spray every bolt and clean it with a rag before attempting to unscrew bolts ot nuts. Some of those bolts have been getting caked with mud for years so clean well. There's nothing worse than trying to get a bolt off that is coverd in rust and dirt, if you dont clean it.
Brian

read through all the instructions and make sure you have all the tools you'll need.

are you doing the lift at the auto hobby shop? They should have everything you need. I did two lift in there when I was stationed up there last time.

Good luck

Gary

hey Gary

yeah, I am going to do it at the auto hobby shop. I am sure it will stay overnight

Power blaster is your friend and should be applied to everything for a week ahead of time on a twice daily basis. My son just finished a 97TJ w/1' body lift and 3.5"RE, only issue now is the TC linkage.... Sure made the install easier with the fenders, hood, grill and radiator off when doing the front :laugh3:

Make sure you have the brake tool for the brake line replacement and mabey a couple of extra rear leaf bolts. I had to cut a couple out. Also need the hardware to replace the upper rear shock bolts since its highly probable that yours will break off. There are many threads on this replacement. RE also sent me the wrong rear axle u-bolts. Make sure the ones you have slide around you rear axle easily. Humm , lets see, what else. Oh ya, lots of beer to sooth your aching muscles after leg pressing all the bolts off all day..

I also made sure to use lots of anti seize on the suspension bolts, so when the bigger lift goes in next year, can be done in 1/2 the time. If you are using your own hand tools, get a long 3/4 drive breaker bar for the suspension bolts

HaZakated said:

Dont double work yourself, use WD 40 alot!

Click to expand...

Screw WD40; use something that actually lubricates and penetrates - PB Blaster.

It's a little late to start that now though if you're doing the work today though. It's still good for lightly-rusted bolts today though.

As for "RE sending the wrong u-bolts" that's almost always because the buyer or the reseller didn't identify the rear axle before completing the purchase. The default u-bolt is for the 2.62" D35 axletube, while the D44 is 2.75" and the C8.25" is 3.00" diameter.

Where can I get some PB Blaster...never herd of it. What is the difference?
Brian

Brian,

I've been able to find it at most auto parts stores, its in an old school looking can.

p.s.- thanks for the advice!

You can get it at any Napa Auto, Wal-Mart auto zone...

I used to own an exhaust shop for 5 years...and I swear by PB Blaster...nothing worse than changing rusty/corroded/burned nuts/bolts/studs on donuts/manifolds/headers/catalytic convertors and rusty old exhaust hangers.
As for your lift, you should be done by now, but if not....don't rush it. It's better for it to take a few days to get it done right....than to rush it and risk tearing up more stuff in the long run. No job, like this, hardly EVER goes as planned. I've lifted some vehicles that looked like they'd sat in water for 3 months....and every bolt, somehow, came loose. I've also done some that the bolts still looked to be in pretty good shape...and for no explainable reason...other than fate....they BROKE ! All in all...when you get it done, nothing beats the satisfaction and knowledge gained by having done it yourself. IMHO anyways.
Good Luck
Aron