planning the weakest link...

I had plans for my xj (98 classic, RE6030 lift), find dana44's front and rear, do a dana300 flipped/twin sticked and a cv driveshaft, warn manual hubs...

but it got me to thinkin, what would be the weakest link?

I want to get to the point that the u-joints are the weakest link. Then I can get one of these: http://rockcrawler.com/techreports/ujointtool/index.asp and always (almost) be able to not get stuck because of mecanicals...

I don't plan to go over 33's and will probably end up gearing it for them...

thoughts?

g

gregclimbs said:

I had plans for my xj (98 classic, RE6030 lift), find dana44's front and rear, do a dana300 flipped/twin sticked and a cv driveshaft, warn manual hubs...

but it got me to thinkin, what would be the weakest link?

I want to get to the point that the u-joints are the weakest link. Then I can get one of these: http://rockcrawler.com/techreports/ujointtool/index.asp and always (almost) be able to not get stuck because of mecanicals...

I don't plan to go over 33's and will probably end up gearing it for them...

thoughts?

g

Click to expand...

I love it, I don't plan on going over 33's, byt inchitis will get to you eventually. That ujoint tool is pretty sweet though.That will be a bling set up, where are you going to get d-44's?

dana 44s are generally bulletproof on 33s... generally. some people can break anything.

stock Spicer shafts will typically break before a Spicer 760x joint, so you would need alloy shafts and 760 joints to make the joint the weak link. however I don't think that is a good idea, since a broken joint will often damage the shaft. Warn makes a "hub fuse" that is supposed to break just before a 297x joint would and it is very easy to change if/when it does break. I normally don't like the idea of these because I think they would break too often since 760x joints are out now and stronger than 297s. BUT if you're only running 33s I think breaking a hub fuse would be rare if ever.

for the rear a stock D44 is pretty bullet-proof (with 33s), but alloy shafts would allow full confidence in even the most crazy situations.

gregclimbs said:

I want to get to the point that the u-joints are the weakest link. Then I can get one of these: http://rockcrawler.com/techreports/ujointtool/index.asp and always (almost) be able to not get stuck because of mecanicals...

g

Click to expand...

That tool looks alot like my pitman arm puller and socket rig...

WobblesXJ said:

That tool looks alot like my pitman arm puller and socket rig...

Click to expand...

Bet you wish now you would have patented that idea?

yes I do

gregclimbs said:

I had plans for my xj (98 classic, RE6030 lift), find dana44's front and rear, do a dana300 flipped/twin sticked and a cv driveshaft, warn manual hubs...

Click to expand...

Sounds like a whole lotta overkill to me, for just 33's.

Brett was right about the joint usually taking out the shafts -- intentionally making the u-joint the weak link (it usually is already anyway though) isn't the best idea IMHO. And D30's use the same u-joints, so I don't see a whole lot of benefit in what you're planning? You'd still be just as likely to break a shaft/joint as if you'd stuck with your existing HP D30.

I'm running 35's with 4.56's and an ARB on my D30, along with a Warn small hub kit w/alloy inners and outers. Once I put in some HD u-joints, that pretty much assures that my hubs will be the weak link. They're not all that expensive, and they're super-easy to change on the trail -- literally pull off the wheel, pull the old hub off, put the new hub on, and put the wheel back on, the only nuts/bolts/etc I have to deal with are the lugnuts.

The 6030 kit really isn't tall enough to necessitate hi-steer, and it'll cost just the same to regear, lock, and add alloy shafts and HD u-joints to your D30 as it would a D44, so the only real cost benefit to a D44 would be it already comes with hubs.

If you don't have the 8.25" rear axle, just pick up a Ford 8.8", weld the tubes to the diff housing, setup the spring perches and shock mounts, gear it to 4.56's and toss in an ELocker. Then stick with the D30, put in matching gears and an ARB or something, along with the Warn small hub kit w/alloys and HD joints, and you're good to go.