The Budget Boost install adventure.

Ok, I've already hit a snag. I can't get the center pin out in the rear leafs out for the life of me! I'm worried about snappin more bolts, and I've had enough of that lately. Any tips or tricks? Also, just for my own peice of mind (and the fact that I'm a moron) which way should I be applying pressure to the bolt? If it's 'righy-tighty', then that means I should be pulling the socket towards me right?

Anywho, if any body has been on this journy, and have sugestions (or ways they would have done it diffrently) let me know.

Peace.

You should be turning it counter clockwise if that don't work just cut it(you need new ones anyway).

Yeah, after using a combination of a 5lb sledge and a 2x4, I was able to get it loose. But now it's just spinning. I don't see how I can get a set of vice grips in there to stop it though.

Should I just use the angle grinder to take the top of the bolts off?

FIRST... put some large C-clamps on the leaf pack.. .there is alot of stored energy there. then use a grinder with a cut-off wheel to cut the head of the bolt off... after it is cut, the clamps can be removed slowly..

just cut it off with a grinder...

I went through the same adventure myself recently. The best advice I can offer is to search this site. Look up "budget boost" or even BB. There are 100s of tricks and potential pitfalls. You can either discover them yourself or look at the advice of those ahead of you.

I would also "google" jeep, XJ, budget boost, lift, etc. There are quite a few sites that offer step by step instructions with lots of pictures and advice. The directions that came with my kit were not nearly as complete as what I found on-line.

The RE BB comes with new center pins, so I just cut the old ones off. But now I can't seem to get the side to droop low enough for me to get the new center pins in.

Seems that I cant get it to droop low enough to get the centerpin in now. Well I started using a bottle jack on the passenger side to get the driverside low enough, but now I think my brake line is going to act as a limiting strap.

Bolognablake said:

Seems that I cant get it to droop low enough to get the centerpin in now. Well I started using a bottle jack on the passenger side to get the driverside low enough, but now I think my brake line is going to act as a limiting strap.

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What???????? What are you doing with a jack. C-clap, cut the old pin, insert leaf so pack remains gradually smaller as it goes down, reinsert new pin, tighten nut, remove clamps, assemble.

There are many ways to take the leaf packs apart. Once you have that side of the axle drooped as far as it will go (remove lower shock mount nut and unhook lower shock end, cut off old u-bolts, completely remove rear sway bar.) If you haven't done all of these things, it will be difficult to get the new leafs in. Also, take off the little brackets that hold all the leafs in line with each other. You can use a c-clamp if they are still pretty arched, but if they are very sagged like mine were, skip the clamp and just hack off the bolt and remove it. Be careful not to nick or damage the leaf springs in the process as this may cause a weak spot in the leaf. Now, just put your new pieces in, install the new center pin and cut off the top of it about an inch above the nut, install the new u-bolts and replace the leaf "clamps" and you should be in good shape. Re-tighten the u-bolts after about 100 miles, to make sure they don't come loose. A great idea with u-bolts is to use ny-lock nuts to keep them from working their way off in the future.

coderedxj said:

There are many ways to take the leaf packs apart. Once you have that side of the axle drooped as far as it will go (remove lower shock mount nut and unhook lower shock end, cut off old u-bolts, completely remove rear sway bar.) If you haven't done all of these things, it will be difficult to get the new leafs in. Also, take off the little brackets that hold all the leafs in line with each other. You can use a c-clamp if they are still pretty arched, but if they are very sagged like mine were, skip the clamp and just hack off the bolt and remove it. Be careful not to nick or damage the leaf springs in the process as this may cause a weak spot in the leaf. Now, just put your new pieces in, install the new center pin and cut off the top of it about an inch above the nut, install the new u-bolts and replace the leaf "clamps" and you should be in good shape. Re-tighten the u-bolts after about 100 miles, to make sure they don't come loose. A great idea with u-bolts is to use ny-lock nuts to keep them from working their way off in the future.

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Not all lifts come with new u-bolts especially not BBs. I would be sure your not gonna reuse the old ones befor cutting away.

It was really just the drivers side that was giving me the drama.

Well, in hind-sight, the drivers side was such a pain because:

1) I'm a stupid n00b....hehe.

2) I have a tendancy to do things in the wrong order

3) Because I'm lazy

The reason it took so long for the drivers side is because that's where the brake line connects to the axle. I though to myself "Gee, with all of this suspension work, I don't wanna mess with brakes today! Bye golly!". The RE kit comes with an extended steel brake line, but I decided to do that later. Well, when it came time to put the centerpins in, I realized I couldn't get the axle to droop far enough with out the brake line looking like it was gonna snap. It took an hour and some magic with 3 jackstands and 2 jacks to squeeze it in.

The passenger side was a breeze:

1) Learned from dumb n00b mistakes

2) No brake line drama

3) Experience is better than directions

Next side too all of 30 minutes, and most of that was just wrenching. Piece-o-cake.

I havent done the front yet, I won't have another day off till next wensday, so I'll have the dragster look till then. I'm gonna buy that craftsman air compressor that's on sale for $299 right now. I almost bought it yesterday, bu