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4x4 not workin

89Mj

NAXJA Forum User
Hey first i would like to say sorry for my spelling so heres the thing my 4x4 will only stay ingaed for a coulpe minuts then come back after driveing for a bit the coller on my axle moves back and forth freely by hand locking the axle and the aculator moves back and forth when puttin it in 4wheel and back in to 2wheel and the aculator does not leak and not binding it to moves nicely and when the RPM's come up the partime lite goes out till the RPM's come back down any hellp please oh ya it's a 89 comanche 4.0 auto with a 231 t-case thanx
 
If, as you say, the actuator itself is all right, but it drops out of 4WD when the engine is loaded, look for a vacuum problem in the lines or in the reservoir. The vacuum reservoir, located behind the right front bumper, can crack or leak, especially if there's ever been an impact there. The feet can break off and leave an inconspicuous hole. Also check the vacuum line that runs to the reservoir, underneath the battery. Corrosion can eat it. If you also notice that the heater switches to defrost under the same kind of conditions that cause your 4WD failure, this is a sure sign of a leak in the shared vacuum system. If you don't hit pay dirt there, check all the 4WD-specific lines, including the rubber connector to the actuator, for damage and looseness, and look for rust pinholes in the metal lines as well. There are a couple of low spots in the metal lines that can collect moisture. I had this problem, and it just about drove me crazy until I found the tiny pinhole in one of those lines. A vacuum pump and gauge can be really handy here. Finally, check the vacuum switch on the transfer case. These can sometimes go bad, either leaking or sticking. Fortunately, although the actuator on the axle is expensive, the switch is pretty cheap - last time I bought one it was about 12 bucks.

I had an 87 for a few years, and every single failure that can happen to this system occurred at least once, except that I never broke an actuator shift fork.
 
correct me if i am wrong but i thought that the actuator used 2 different vacuum lines.. one to engage.. one to dis-engage... and vacuum will hold that one position until the tcase is shifted and the other vacuum line is opened and pulls the actuator in the opposit direction..

or an i totally off-base here? time to swap in a non-disco shaft and call it a day..
 
thanx guys i looked at it again today and the acuatior is moveing back and forth when you put it in and out of 4wheel but it does not move it all the way over it just barily covers the to axles but the acuator wount move over any more it is at its limit and when i turn it must pull the axles just enofe the coller don't join them any more the shift fork has new pads on it and does not seem to be bent or anything but when it is ingaged in 4wheel and you put it back on the axle it moves the coller back over the one axle just barly thouching the other axle not sure what is going on here with this heep any more ideals please
 
sidriptide said:
correct me if i am wrong but i thought that the actuator used 2 different vacuum lines.. one to engage.. one to dis-engage... and vacuum will hold that one position until the tcase is shifted and the other vacuum line is opened and pulls the actuator in the opposit direction..

or an i totally off-base here? time to swap in a non-disco shaft and call it a day..

There are two vacuum lines running from the vacuum switch in the transfer case, but one running to it. A failure at the source will allow it to pop out of gear, as will a failure on the actuating side of the downstream system. So will a leak in the switch in the transfer case. You'd think that it would stay engaged until you disengage it, even if the system leaks a little. Unfortunately, it doesn't. It should, but it doesn't.

I just saw your second post. I haven't looked at one of these things for a few years, but I wonder if someone before you put the fork on backwards or something. I don't even remember if that's possible, but it sounds as if there's something quite wrong there.
 
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It won't go together and function properly with the fork on backwards. Check the fork for play on the shaft. It should be a snug fit w/ little play. If not the fork doesn't hold the collar over far enough and it can kick out under load. Though I have fixed these by hack method, the forks are not that expensive, so a new one is a better solution. Also make sure the splines on the intermediate shaft and the collar are not worn excessively from it slipping. If they are, the fork alone may not fix it.
 
sidriptide said:
correct me if i am wrong but i thought that the actuator used 2 different vacuum lines.. one to engage.. one to dis-engage... and vacuum will hold that one position until the tcase is shifted and the other vacuum line is opened and pulls the actuator in the opposit direction..

or an i totally off-base here? time to swap in a non-disco shaft and call it a day..
A non-disco shaft were would i get one of theam like out of a cherake or somthing thanx for the help guys
 
Just went through the same crap myself. I finally broke down and made a cable disconnect and got rid of all the vacuum stuff. Works like a charm and costs less than $20.
 
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