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winching 101

mack

NAXJA Forum User
Location
gone fishin....
i hope someone can help me out, first, i just got my winch (warn x8000i) and i have a hanson bumper, but, when i got the bumper it didn't come with the HD support brackets so i just have it bolted to the three stock holes, the guys at hanson said they won't make any brackets for months, so i got a set of stock towhook bracket, can the bumper mount come off the tow brackets? and will they help support the bumper for winching?
Also, what are some good tips for winching? how does a snach block work? any tips or info on winching will help a ton, since i've never had to do it before.
thanks to anyone that can help.:wave:
 
I'm not real sure about this but the factory tow hook brackets are a bit on the thin side, if the hanson bumper mounts to them that might be half the battle. I think I would go with the custom4x4 bracket mounts instead. They are a heavier steel than the factory ones. You might want to investigate the warn mounting system and see how they do it on the XJ and see if you can duplicate it.
On the TJ's its alot easier and mounting only takes a few minutes, on the xj it's alot more involved. I have the factory front hooks and brackets and I gotta say they are not that strong, they twist pretty good on small off angle pulls.
No doubt some of the other bumper builders here will comment with alot more experience than I have.. One of them might even have custom brackets that would solve any problems..
 
mack said:
i hope someone can help me out, first, i just got my winch (warn x8000i) and i have a hanson bumper, but, when i got the bumper it didn't come with the HD support brackets so i just have it bolted to the three stock holes, the guys at hanson said they won't make any brackets for months, so i got a set of stock towhook bracket, can the bumper mount come off the tow brackets? and will they help support the bumper for winching?
Also, what are some good tips for winching? how does a snach block work? any tips or info on winching will help a ton, since i've never had to do it before.
thanks to anyone that can help.:wave:

The factory tow hook brackets are very good, and are exactly what you need. Hopefully you got the two small L shaped brackets that come with them, they go against the crossmember and the two bumper mount holes that stick out from the crossmember, and are a good addition for strength. The factory tow hook brackets are also designed to be for mounting a winch, so they are strong enough.

Here are a few pointers for operating a winch. The danger in using a winch is the cable breaking, which can easily kill someone. It's good to put something over the winch cable to absorb the force if the cable breaks, like a jacket or sweatshirt, or if you know you have a good cable just make everyone stand back out of the way, or get behind something. Be careful about sidepulls, even slight ones, since the cable will bunch up on one side of the drum and if done excesively can exert enough force to break the winch housing. You'll have to do this occasionally, just watch the drum so it doesn't get too piled up on one side. To use a snatch block, you slip the cable through so it sets on the pulley, then attach a strap to the snatch block and to some real solid object, it's pretty simple once you see it. Always leave about 5-6 wraps on the drum, since the cable tightening against the drum is what really holds it on, not the flimsy little end connector. If you have to do a real long, hard pull it can be a good idea to stop part way through and let the winch cool down for a few minutes and let the battery recover....no one is in a hurry, and it's better to protect your equipment.

The NUMBER ONE piece of advice about using a winch is to NEVER reel in cable when it is slack. This is also the biggest mistake that I see people make over and over. Reeling in slack cable causes loose wraps, which then get overwraped with tight cable which puts kinks in the cable, which ruins the cable. Cable breaks at the points of the kinks, and then can kill someone. If I start to pull out someone's winch cable and see kinks in it, I won't use it and we get someone else to pull up to do the winching, and tell the person with the kinked cable to replace it before their next run. Always have someone pull the slack out of the cable when winching in, so if someone is hooking up your winch, make them hold it tight while you pull the slack out of it, and always do the same for others. If you are winching yourself, you MUST stay on the winch. Once you're winching, you're winching, resist the temptation to show you can still drive by overdriving the winch. Hit the winch switch and hold it down until you're through winching, and moderate the throttle to help you but still keeping the cable tight. Don't hit the switch off and on and drive, just hold it down until your through the section that has you stuck. When you overdrive the winch, it gets loose wraps on the drum, then when you slip and the winch gets tight again, you pull hard over the loose wraps kinking and ruining the cable. If you've used your winch a bunch, or if you see someone else's winch that is sort of bunched up or has some loose wraps, stop and rewind the cable.

If you never have to winch, you're not wheeling hard enough, so there is no disgrace in having to winch. Use the winch carefully with a tremendous amount of respect for the potential dangers involved, and you can winch for a lifetime with no problems.
 
Also one of the best ways to maintain and make neater is to park on a slight incline, flat will work too, attach the winch cable to a tree and winch in just using the weight of the XJ rolling. It will keep it tight and you can then guide the turns. Also NEVER grab the cable and let it slide thru your hands, unless you like steel splinters that can literally go THRU your hand. Saw once a guy got 3 fingers stuck together when a splinter went thru 3 fingers. Always wear gloves. If you decide to go to one of the new cloth ropes you will also need a fairlead just for that, don't use a standard hawse or roller fairllead on them.
 
wow...great info! do i have to do any thing to maintain it. what size cable should i get, i already seen one kink, so...off comes that cable!
 
One quick thing beezil taught me about reeling in the winch is to walk it in with your hands, no matter what kind of gloves you have. Never let it slide through. Of course you shouldn't be winching with a frayed cable, but god forbid that cable is frayed... your hand will probably need a good amount of stitches, or at least hurt like hell for quite a while. _nicko_
 
After pulling that stupid hummer out last week my winch was a mess. As far as the cable looking messy. Tried something new and it worked pretty good.
I reeled my cable all the way out and tied it to a tree. Then had my wife get in the jeep and put it in reverse. Then reeled the cable in with all the tension on the winch from being in reverse(with no power other then the idling moter.

Then I stayed in front to guide the cable back and forth. It hasn't looked that nice since I first got the winch.
 
my winch didn't come with any mounting bolts, i have no idea what to get.:dunno:
 
good ?? which one to get?
BrettM said:
what about the pros and cons of cable vs. synthetic line?
 
From a practical point of view it's personal preference. The syn is easier to work with, just as strong but has to be handled differently, uses different fairlead made just for syn line. care has to be taken when going over something or it frays. Steel rope is a bit more forgiving, can take more abuse but is more subject to kinking if not reeled in correctly. Don't know about its susceptability to weather, road salt, UV, etc. Under normal use steel will last forever as long as you keep it lubed, clean and maintained. I have used both and like the syn but as most winches come with 125' of steel wire I'm not about to spend another few hundred to replace perfectly good steel with syn. If it came to replacing one then I would have to think about it...
There is a pretty religious thing about whether to use grade 5 or grade 8 bolts for mounting. I'm partial to grade 5 myself, grade 5's will make noise when they start to fail so you can let off and reasses the situation. Grade 8's will hold longer but when they groan it's as they snap and let go and you watch your winch head downrange. If you stress a grade 8 it is no longer a grade 8, it's something less. Stress a grade 5 and it's still a grade 5. Also grade 8's have most of their strength along their length so they are not quite as strong when pulled from the side.
I've gone by what I learned in the military, all the winches on the 2 1/2 tons and 5 tons use grade 5's for mounting so I lean that way.
 
sorry for the dumb ?'s i just want to make sure i do this right, is it a nut and bolt or is the winch threaded? i just picked it up tonight, i haven't looked under it yet
 
Goatman awesome post got a lot of info off that thanks. Nice hearing that stuff from someone with expeirience with it. How did that new synthetic line work for you?

Also arent you suppose to stretch the cable out when you first get it by winching up an incline or have some sort of resistance on it?

TORX
 
BrettM said:
what about the pros and cons of cable vs. synthetic line?

I don't have a winch on my Jeep yet, but I have one on my ATV that has gotten a lot of use. It has been used for recovery, as well as lifting a snowplow. I have a pulley arrangement so the cable runs out the fairlead, straight down to the pulley, then straight up to a big tension spring. Using the wire rope it came with, I was redoing the loop over and over. I think I did it probably ten times using swaged fittings. The loop never failed, but the cable would fray where it ran over the fairlead and through the pulley. During a stupid loading situation the cable snapped with me straddling it in front of the machine. Note this is small cable and didn't present "much" danger as only a few feet of line were out. I new better anyway, and shouldn't have been doing it though I didn't get injured. Made a big bang when it hit the frt. of the truck bed.

After that I put a synthetic rope on. I have used it the same way, haven't broken or damaged it anyway. The outer surface gets a little fuzzy. I have even used this now minus the pulley wheel, letting the rope run around a 5/16 hitch pin instead when using the plow, which was always the biggest problem before. It still gets used for recovery, and handling is obviously better, bare hands are no problem. Much easier to rig with the plow or using snatch blocks, which I have done often. I wouldn't go back to wire again.

The biggest issue seems to be heat resistance which some of the brand/materials can deal with, and some don't so well. The synthetic I have is from ORO. Thier ATV rope is less heat resistant because there isn't as much a need on the small winches, but their OHV(Jeep, truck) stuff is a heat resistant product for the truck size winches.
 
my towhook brackets didn't come with the L brackets, can i still use the brackets for support when winching? i still have to cut off the stock bumper brackets, and should i weld the TH brackets on the hanson mounts? the towhook brackets go on first then the bumper? if anyone has any pics of somthing like this setup that would be great, i want to get this stuff on sunday.

thanks
 
when your winching and some one is guiding in the cable, have them keep there hands where you can see them not in you blind spot just below the crest of the hood. hands are easily broken when drawn into the winch. o yea i still have steel cable but when i get around to replacing it again i'll prob go rope for the safety of myself and friends.
 
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