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tom woods/ advance adapter. or RE

generalleexj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
virginia beach
ok well im on a budget and im trying to find the cheapest sye / ds combo i can get
i know that rustys has the 480.00 combo with the advanced adapters sye and the tom woods driveshaft.this is alot of money. is this my cheapest option ?

i was also looking at the RE hack and tap with their driveshaft but ive also heard many problems with their stuff. anyway does anyone know the cheapest way i can do this ??? thanks..


matt
 
I just install a PORC HD SYE and an XJ front shaft. Total setup was $169 for the SYE and around $80 for the shaft. I have to have it lengthened 1.25" and i'm expecting that to be around $80.
 
bac XJ said:
fs= front shaft

Aaahhh...that makes more sense!! :D

Though I've not gotten the impression the front shaft needs much modding for anything short of pretty tall lifts. With my 3.5", for example, it's not much below horizontal. And I thought they were talking about the rear shaft!
 
Sterling90XJ said:
.
My opinion... shy away from hack-n-tap kits... spend the extra and do it right. I've gone Tom Woods twice, and no problems.

.

From my experience stay away from tom woods it basically the same as the hack and tap already done for ya. I have never heard of the RE kit failing look into the RE kit and a new shaft from arizona driveline the whole set up should be half tha of tom woods and same or better quality
 
xjnation said:
From my experience stay away from tom woods it basically the same as the hack and tap already done for ya. I have never heard of the RE kit failing look into the RE kit and a new shaft from arizona driveline the whole set up should be half tha of tom woods and same or better quality
WRONG!
ask yuccaman about his RE kit...
with incorect instalation - the RE kit is a POS!

go HD or go home
 
I don't think the Tom Woods kit is practically a H&T anyway. I've done it twice and it consisted of a new shaft and a new tail piece for the tcase. Has this changed?
TW always gives good value. It might not be the cheapest but who wants the lowest bidde, always!
 
Danno said:
I don't think the Tom Woods kit is practically a H&T anyway. I've done it twice and it consisted of a new shaft and a new tail piece for the tcase. Has this changed?
TW always gives good value. It might not be the cheapest but who wants the lowest bidde, always!
NASA
 
Danno said:
I don't think the Tom Woods kit is practically a H&T anyway. I've done it twice and it consisted of a new shaft and a new tail piece for the tcase. Has this changed?
TW always gives good value. It might not be the cheapest but who wants the lowest bidde, always!

Read his site he charges you for a core charge for your old shaft above and beyond the 480.00 because he cuts and taps your old shaft for someone elses kit.
 
XJ_ranger said:
WRONG!
ask yuccaman about his RE kit...
with incorect instalation - the RE kit is a POS!

go HD or go home

well then skip the tom woods kit also because he uses the stock shaft modded or he hacks and taps them for ya

from tom woods site
600 up front for the 231 or $700 up front for the 242, with $200.00 of this being a core charge. Once you have the conversion done, simply return your usable main shaft for a refund.

here ya go arizona driveline super store. same price as tom woods for the HD AA kit and Custom DS only difference is thye have 15% off now.

az DS superstore

These guys are great to deal with also. I can call on a thursday afternoon with DS specs and pic up on Friday afternoon.

They built me a custom long travel DS for the manche with HD CV, and rebuilt my old shaft as a trail spare all for 250.00
 
Last edited:
As a quick insight. The Tom Woods kit is more than a hack-n-tap. Because of the way the original slip yoke works, the splines don't go all the way back to edge of the rear of the t-case. Because of this there is usually about 1 inch ?? between the rear of the t-case and where the yoke attaches. If you take as a rough guess that it's an inch from the rear bearing to the the rear of the case, you've just increased the lever arm on that bearing from 1 to 2 inches (ie: you just doubled the load on that bearing and the mainshaft at that point).

Tom Woods actually goes in a resplines the shaft farther back with a milling machine which allows him to cut the shaft even closer to the rear of the case. This helps keep the lever arm down close to the original length. I believe he also will repress a better rear bearing for you. I cam across this information while researching an SYE kit for the 242, but I believe it also applies to his older kit for the 231. But then, if you have the 231, you're better off going with the HD kit anyways.
 
I run a hack n tap and have for years with an RE shaft (never failed in 4 years) I carry a new in the box RE shaft as a spare that I have never used. As for the strenght of the hack n tap...you be the judge..MY MJ is running 38.5s/hp60/9"/aw4/stroker motor. This video was shot this past weekend at Tellico on helicopter pad, all but two other trucks winched(about 10 total) My hackn tap didn't break, but later in the weekend I did ring off the front output shaft on the 231 (luckly I carry a spare t-case in the tow rig) again you be the judge....http://www.fototime.com/users/[email protected]/More beating

as for installing it, a monkey could do it with good hand tools. I get tired of reading what people "think"...so just watch..
 
so he takes cold rolled splines and remills them? that would make the splines weaker and creates a stress riser where the 2 different operations have taken place. substancially weaker than leaving it alone
 
BIGWOODY said:
I run a hack n tap and have for years with an RE shaft (never failed in 4 years) I carry a new in the box RE shaft as a spare that I have never used. As for the strenght of the hack n tap...you be the judge..MY MJ is running 38.5s/hp60/9"/aw4/stroker motor. This video was shot this past weekend at Tellico on helicopter pad, all but two other trucks winched(about 10 total) My hackn tap didn't break, but later in the weekend I did ring off the front output shaft on the 231 (luckly I carry a spare t-case in the tow rig) again you be the judge....http://www.fototime.com/users/[email protected]/More beating

as for installing it, a monkey could do it with good hand tools. I get tired of reading what people "think"...so just watch..

chime in Bro! Chime in! sick videos too!
 
Yup Nightside is essentially right. Every kit is a H&T kit. It's really a matter of what quality you get Tom's kits are pricey but you get some good customer service when you need it. And everything comes from the same place. Nothing worse than trying to track down parts that may have come from different sources. As far as the bearing seal goes, Tom installs these for you making it an even easier do it yourself job. He told me that too many people had problems trying to press in the bearing themselves or having to take it to a shop to have it done (improperly sometimes too) By having the bearing installed, it makes it a true home job!
 
XJ_ranger said:
WRONG!
ask yuccaman about his RE kit...
with incorect instalation - the RE kit is a POS!

go HD or go home
Not entirely - I've had no problems with the H+T portion of the kit. The driveshaft(s) is(are) a totally different story though. I'll recommend RE stuff all the time except for their driveshaft - http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/sye.html
 
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