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Baffling Issue

CRASH

CRASH

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Foresthill, CA
I'm having oil pressure issues on steep climbs. I'm 90% certain it has to do with the way the new oil pump was installed (by me) on the new stroker, as I replaced my high volume unit with a regular pump to try and solve a low oil pressure issue (turned out to be a main oil galley plug). The high volume pump is going back in, but while I'm in there, i'd like to baffle the oil pan to help keep the oil from sloshing to the back of the motor.

Is a simple horizontal plate at the back of the pan all that is required? How about extending the oil pickup tube? Anyone done either of these?

Maybe I should just go all out and build a dry sump........

CRASH
 
I would get away from the "high volume" pump, and just stick with a high pressure pump. Big difference between the two... Also extend your pickup for the pump to the furthermost back part of the pan. Afterall you are probibly turning your engine oil into a foam latte.... Baffles will help but not eliminate the problem you are having.
 
CRASH said:
I'm having oil pressure issues on steep climbs. I'm 90% certain it has to do with the way the new oil pump was installed (by me) on the new stroker, as I replaced my high volume unit with a regular pump to try and solve a low oil pressure issue (turned out to be a main oil galley plug). The high volume pump is going back in, but while I'm in there, i'd like to baffle the oil pan to help keep the oil from sloshing to the back of the motor.

Is a simple horizontal plate at the back of the pan all that is required? How about extending the oil pickup tube? Anyone done either of these?

Maybe I should just go all out and build a dry sump........

CRASH
Click to expand...

The stock oil pan already has a horizontal plate that extends backwards to prevent oil surging forwards when you do down a steep hill. Otherwise the pump would run dry and the oil pressure would drop to zero. The oil pump pick up strainer should be near the bottom of the sump at the rear.
 
Clean-RC said:
I would get away from the "high volume" pump, and just stick with a high pressure pump. Big difference between the two... Also extend your pickup for the pump to the furthermost back part of the pan. Afterall you are probibly turning your engine oil into a foam latte.... Baffles will help but not eliminate the problem you are having.
Click to expand...

High volume and High pressure different??????


You DO know that Pressure is a RESULT of Volume? Pumps cannot build pressure...only volume. PRESSURE is built by the VOLUME of oil being forced through the block. High Volume oil pumps produce more oil pressure because of the higher VOLUME of oil being moved.
 
you all prob already know this but baffeling only helps in momentary changes of position like bouncing up on a rock but if you are doing a steep waterfall it aint gonna help. go dry sump or go home :)
 
On my Drag MJ I welded a 1 1/2" baffle to the pan under the rear main cap (similar to the front baffle already OEM)
The pickup should be only 1/4" off the bottom of the oil pan in its stock position but it is located in the forward half of the sump. you might be able to move it back an inch or so - don't know if that would be enough to solve the problem. You could move it all the way back in the pan but might have the opposite result of uncovering it on downhills - maybe the better situation as I would expect you would be at idle in downhill runs???
 
The only way to avoid starvation as I see it would be to angle a baffle from the middle of the back of teh pan towads the center of the bottom of the pan. effectively making it smaller. You could go all out and put in dual pickups witha loat valve that would follow the flow of the oil in the pan and close the pickup that was out of the oil. Some old earth moving equiptment use a system like that
 
I'm going to pull the pan in a couple of weeks and confimr the pickup position. The funny thing is, I never had this problem in my first rig, and I climbed some steep stuff in those 9 years.

I'll move the pickup back and down as much as possible, as well as re-replace my high volume unit.

I know I could build a dry sump, but the time involved would likely be in the hundreds of hours. Major bling factor, though!

CRASH

Edit: Thanks for the help. Except Hinkley.
 
Mark Hinkley said:
BTW, the motor is suppose to have 6 quarts of oil!


:D


hinkley
Click to expand...

I think I burned off 3 quarts during that incident on Rio Lobo. :D
 
Re: Baffling Issue Dry sump?

You don't have to build a dry sump pan - just weld 2 AN fittings at the front and back (on the side) of the existing sump. I don't think you would need one in the shallow front of the pan.
 
Re: Baffling Issue Dry sump?

rsalemi said:
You don't have to build a dry sump pan - just weld 2 AN fittings at the front and back (on the side) of the existing sump. I don't think you would need one in the shallow front of the pan.
Click to expand...

Yeah, but then you'd be sucking air through one of them on ascent or descent. Not good.
 
To clear the air... a high volume pump has oversized gears and a regulator spring set up for stock pressure levels....a high pressure pump has oversized gears and a stiff regulator spring, resulting in higher outlet pressure. Of note.. most aftermarket cam manufacturers say to use a bronze distributor drive gear with a HP pump to avoid damaging the drive teeth machined into the cam.
 
Re: Baffling Issue Dry sumps

Several dry sump systems are available- 3 4 & 5 stage pumps with individual lines to pickups so each sucks oil to the dry sump tank, which then supplys oil through 1 line to the pressure side of the pump. We had a Big Block with 3 scavenge lines in the pan and one at the back of the lifter valley below the manifold.
Sprint cars use a small tank and pump because they are very weight concious. Peterson, Moroso, Milodon, etc have webpages with info
 
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