More dumb servicing questions - lube & dizzy

I've searched, but I'm still at a bit of a loss...

First things first - 93, 4.0l, AX15 & 231.

I can see the drain plugs for my TC, but can't figure out how to get them off! It looks for all the world like a 30mm nut - is that right, or is it just a matter of prying off a plug masquerading as an oddly-sized nut? My FSMs just show plugs, so I'm more than a little confused.

Next is my gearbox - it will be a pig to get the right oil in, as the cold weather's making the stuff as thick as syrup. Anyone have any suggestions? I was thinking about routing a long bit of hose and jamming a funnel in the end, since I've not got a pump.

Finally, I got a set of performance leads & dizzy cap, and would like to fit them in. I've never done it before, so could someone walk me through what to do, please? Do you need to take note of the angle of the rotor arm, or other easily missed and crucial bits? Any help would be much appreciated.

Seen both a BIG nut on the drain and fill, my 98 has hex heads. Sons old 89YJ had like 1" bolts, big buggers. AX15 is a big one too, don't remember sizes off hand, I just grab 3 or 5 box/open wrenches that look in the ballpark in both sae and metric and crawl under and try them, one at a time.
For filling, get about 3 or 4 ft of clear tubing, an empty plastic water bottle with a screw on cap, drill hole in cap about the size of the tubing, tighter the better, force tubing thru hole to bottom of the bottle, drill another hole, small like 1/16" or so in cap. Fill bottle with lube, put cap on tight, put hose into AX15 or transfer case, squeeze bottle keeping your finger over small hose, stop squeezing and move finger to allow bottle to refill with air, repeat process until done. Parts stores should also have small screw on push pumps but I use Mobil-1 and the bottle is a wide mouth.
As for the cap and rotor, do not remove any wires yet, put a dab of dielectric grease inside each of the nipples on the new cap, remove the old cap from the distributor, remove the rotor, put the new rotor on and turn it till the keyway lines up and it will go right on, put the new cap on then put the old one next to the new one and line up the markings, transfer one wire at a time. Also helps to make a drawing of what wires go where in what order just in case. At that point you can then do one new wire at a time, variations are also possible but the one at a time is pretty much fool proof.

Thanks Rich! :thumbup:

What size did the TC fill bolts end up being? I have an 89 AX15 with 231 and the same problem. 1 1/8" is too small, 1 1/4" is too big. I borrowed a 1 3/16 from work and will try tonight but it does look like a metric. I couldn't find it in the book either.

30 mm is the size for the T-case....
I had to go buy a socket with a thinner wall, I had a large HD impact in 30mm.