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Motor mounts

A

Atl XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Atlanta
How involved is to to change the motor mounts out on a '95 XJ 4.0l/AW4? It looked pretty easy in the Haynes manual, but they are known to be pretty vague. I need to get my XJ back in the road asap and if its pretty involved I might have to take it to my mechanic.

To make a long story short, my clutch fan ate my radiator for the second time so its got to be bad motor mounts. I should have fixed it right last time.
 
passenger side--you might have to remove the oil filter or adapter to get the mount bolt out. The two bolts that hold the mount on are 15mm I think and you have to take one off top and bottom...
drivers side--take the air box out for easier accesss
I use a piece of plywood or something to spread the load between the jack and the oil pan. Take it up just enough to take the load off the mounts. AND BE CAREFUL TO KEEP YOU HANDS/FINGERS SAFE...

I did the same thing eating two radiators before I put new currie motor mounts in and a daystar trans mount...cost about as much as a new radiator
 
I was looking at it yesterday and I really think it might be a bad transmission mount vs the engine mounts. I couldnt get the engine mounts to budge but the transmission mount had some play in it. I don't have the time to deal with it and I need it back on the road asap so I think I'm going to take it to my mechanic for him to fix it.

I appreciate the feedback. :D
 
i don't know about it being a 15 minute job, there were two of the bolts that were a real pita to get to and one of them I still don't know how to access it.
 
Atl XJ said:
i don't know about it being a 15 minute job, there were two of the bolts that were a real pita to get to and one of them I still don't know how to access it.
Click to expand...
for the tranny mount secure the tranny, drop the crossmember (8 bolts: 4 in the edges 4 nuts on the mount itself) then tehre is a whole plate that you take off that has the tranny mount on it, then you remove the mount from that plate and rebolt and you're done. It's about 30 minutes :D

Anyways if your tranny mount went, consider getting the engine mounts as well: from what I recall you're supposed to replace them as a set otherwise you risk them failing fairly soon (again).
 
Atl XJ said:
i don't know about it being a 15 minute job, there were two of the bolts that were a real pita to get to and one of them I still don't know how to access it.
Click to expand...


put a jack under the trans mission remove the bolts that hold the x member in place remove the 4 nuts that hold the xmember to the trans mount. the x member drops away and leaves perfect access to the 2 large bolts for the trans mount. I use racheting box wrench. remove old mount reverse process took me about 20 minutes yesterday. its easier on the new xj's than the old ones
 
my dumbass was trying to do it without removing the crossmember. I guess thats what happens when you try to do something when you are in a hurry.
 
Do all mounts. The engine mounts aren't hard if you do one at a time but if the stud inside the rubber portion of the mount breaks loose when removing the nut to the frame, you are in for a long day.

In other words, Try loosening the nuts holding the mount to the frame rail 1st. If they come right off, the rest will be easy. If the nut/stud just turns, wait until you have 3-4 hours and the cutting tools because you'll need to take the mount out in pieces until you can get vise-grips on the stud under the rubber.

There should be a warning on all new radiators to qualify the motor mounts before installing. But, that wouldn't sell as many radiators, would it? LOL...
 
I would also spend a few extra $$$$$$ and buy the moore bombproof mounts if you do any type of wheelin at all I went through 2 sets in 12 months of stock units then installed the moores and 4 years later still like new.
 
xjnation said:
I would also spend a few extra $$$$$$ and buy the moore bombproof mounts if you do any type of wheelin at all I went through 2 sets in 12 months of stock units then installed the moores and 4 years later still like new.
Click to expand...
if you get M.O.R.E. mounts though expect a rougher ride (from what I hear the new redesigned ones are better then the original ones, but they are still rough)
 
Btw, I forgot to add in my previous post, Is it okay to cut that strap off the radiator? The one that goes vertically up the middle? It was all mangled from where my clutch fan caught it. Also, my fan clutch is brand new, but one of the ears broke off of it it the whole fiasco so I cut the other ones off and ground it all down smooth with a file--so nothing is off balance. Will this be okay? I drove it around for like 20 minutes like that and it seemed okay. Whats the purpose of those ears?
 
Atl XJ said:
Btw, I forgot to add in my previous post, Is it okay to cut that strap off the radiator? The one that goes vertically up the middle? It was all mangled from where my clutch fan caught it. Also, my fan clutch is brand new, but one of the ears broke off of it it the whole fiasco so I cut the other ones off and ground it all down smooth with a file--so nothing is off balance. Will this be okay? I drove it around for like 20 minutes like that and it seemed okay. Whats the purpose of those ears?
Click to expand...

The strap shouldn't matter. My guess is that it's something used during manufacturing and general reinforcement but I really have no idea. The tabs on the clutch fan are a mystery to me as well. I thought about doing the same thing but I didn't break any so I just changed the mounts and let it be.

Check it out inbetween trips but I doubt you'll have any problems. These thicker, higher capacity radiators are great but too much slop in the engine mounting and you'll learn a hard lesson.
 
XJXJ said:
These thicker, higher capacity radiators are great but too much slop in the engine mounting and you'll learn a hard lesson.
Click to expand...

No shit, thats a brand new Modine that got damaged. Luckily I caught it right after it happened so its barely leaking so I'm hoping I can save it. I drove it an hour and the radiator was still full but it does have a pin hole leak in it. I put some of that radiator stop leak crap in it, hopefully it will work and not wreck the rest of my cooling system in the process.
 
Atl XJ said:
No shit, thats a brand new Modine that got damaged. Luckily I caught it right after it happened so its barely leaking so I'm hoping I can save it. I drove it an hour and the radiator was still full but it does have a pin hole leak in it. I put some of that radiator stop leak crap in it, hopefully it will work and not wreck the rest of my cooling system in the process.
Click to expand...

If it makes you feel any better, I've heard some auto makers use Bar's stop leak from the factory in cooling systems. Might be BS, dunno fer sure? If it keeps leaking, a rad shop might be able to solder the tube that's leaking. JB Weld?

Mine just barely clipped the strap on a CFS last year so I did the mounts ASAP. Of course, the stud turned on one of the mount frame bolts so it was a HUGE PITA.
 
Bars stop leak was what I put in it so we'll see how it holds up. Its parked right now at my parents house till I get it fixed. I heard the same thing about the stop leak, I was told it was GM vehicles but I wasnt sure if it was BS or not.
 
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