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Massive Rear Main Leakage

cyrus

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Zeeland, MI
the rear main finally let go, what I need to know is, can the rear main and pan gasket be changed with the engine in the vehicle? or am I just better off pulling it and cahnging it that way?

oh, it a '90 sport w/a 4.0 & an AW4
 
http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain/index.asp

There it is courtesy of Jason. All you need to know. Get the double lip seal btw. I think most places have them but you'll have to ask.
This is one REALLY DIRTY job. go pressure wash and degrease the bottom of the motor first if you can. otherwise get lots of rags and handcleaner!!
 
alright, it can be done. now, what should I avoid and what should I definitly do? can you get at the top half of the seal with the Flex Plate and TC still in the bell houseing?
 
cyrus said:
alright, it can be done. now, what should I avoid and what should I definitly do? can you get at the top half of the seal with the Flex Plate and TC still in the bell houseing?

I just helped my friend do this on his '94. Yep, it can be done by only removing the pan, which it a PITA. We ended up using a jack to lift the bellhousing a little to get the pan out, and that was with the frame rails supported and the axle hanging down all the way. I used a small torx driver to drive the upper seal out until I could grab it with a pair of needle-nose pliers. You may want to consider some kind of adhesive to hold the new pan gasket in place while you get the pan on, I used a little RTV and it was a PITA. No leaks.
 
thanks guys, its time I do something with it. On the 26 mile drive to work and back (which it onlys see's once a month or so, not my DD) it leaks almost a quart. Basiclly it sucks. Well, I'm off to get parts, thanks again.
 
Sparkman said:
I used a small torx driver to drive the upper seal out until I could grab it with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

One other suggestion - use a small brass rod (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) to push out the old seal. Less chance of scratching the seal race.

Mike in NJ :patriot:
 
try paying close attention to how the oil pan drops out. When I did mine it came out so fast that when it was time to go back in I had no clue how to get it up there. I ended up taking apart a lot of the front end to get it back in. So just watch for how it comes out.

Dean
 
dropping the starter motor helps alot too.

x2 on the brass. the torqs bit may have got the job done, but that's a big no no
 
I planned on dropping the starter, trans lines and maybe the alternator. I really didnt want ot pull the engine. I dont think I have ever pulled one and not modified it, even if there was no initial intention. I just can't say "no"
 
cyrus said:
the rear main finally let go, what I need to know is, can the rear main and pan gasket be changed with the engine in the vehicle? or am I just better off pulling it and cahnging it that way?

oh, it a '90 sport w/a 4.0 & an AW4

Before you get too deep, qualify the CCV plumbing/venting because excessive crankcase pressure can make oil seal(s) leak.
 
Check the back of the valve cover. It can leak down the back of the engine and mimic a rear main seal.
 
Not to hijack....but while were on the topic. I have a leak, it causes the right side of the oil pan and the back right half of the pan to be wet. Sometimes there is a stream followed by a drip on the end of the oil filter. Would this be oil filter adapter? Rear main? If it was rear main wouldn't the whole back of the pan be wet and not just one side. Sometimes this leak stops altogether for a couple months. I am stumped. Could the oil filter be too tight (causing it to leak out and run back the filter and then drip?
 
XJXJ and old_man gave good advice. The day before we did the bearing/pump/seal job we replaced the valve cover gasket and all of the CCV stuff. The CCV hoses were totally shot. That's a good thing to look into before replacing any seals.
 
Checking the CCV equipment is a good idea, I hadnt thought of that. The vavle cover leaks as well but not in the back, its only wet on the front right side. but thats getting the fix as well.
 
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