Best way to join Johnny Joints to Radius Arms?

Plan is to run a HP44 w/radius arms to a separate crossmember forward of the stocker similar to PeteM's setup...


Except I want to attach Currie's JJ's to the radius arm ends...

Bad juju to simply weld the joint to the threads at the end of the arm?

overkill to tap some dom, thread it on the arms, then weld it, AND then thread the JJ to the DOM?

Am I complicating a simple job?

Any of you running full width radius arm setups have any pros/cons on James Duff's urethane "C" bushings in 4° & 6.25°?

TIA

While your at it why don't you extend the arms a little and try to tuck them up in the rails some. Not sure what your after but just changing the joint at the frame won't gain you a lot and might even cost you a little without some extension (rubber allows some movement the JJ's won't). There is a lot more bind happening at the axle end.

Anyway if it were me I would sleeve the end of the arm with some good tubing then fishmouth the tubing to weld to the joint. Hopefully your planning the 3" joint and I would uses some 1.75" X .375 wall or 1.5" X .25 wall. That's assuming I'm remembering the corect 1" threaded shaft on the ford arms.

Lincoln said:

While your at it why don't you extend the arms a little and try to tuck them up in the rails some.

Click to expand...

'zactly what I'm after... I'm planning to mount the JJ's on top of the x-member

I want to be able to tuck them flush with the x-member, which is where I'm concerned about the angles at the pinion/knuckles...

Anyone know if the rubber C bushings are available in modified degrees?

Thx

cut and turn the knuckles to get the right caster, takes a couple hours with a grinder, BFH and welder.


as for the radius arms, I would do like FarmerMatt did on his John Deere rig (not sure if he did the same on the Cat). he extended them a few inches and sleeved them quite a bit.

also, PeteM doesn't seem to be happy with the articulation of his, if you extend the arms you will get less bind and more articulation.

Cutting and turning the knuckles on the cast mounts are a PITA. I believe Farmer bought his radius arms (second time?):
http://lombardimetalworks.com/radius_arms.htm

Rubber bushing are just that, a slab of rubber sandwiched in there.

If I had one of the cast axles and was keeping it full width I would be real tempted to make my own clamps without the C bushings and then build my own links from that. It wouldn't be that hard to just pick the lowers up at the stock c mounts and then build a bridge for a stock like over the pumpkin third mount.

Not as simple as the fab to fit stock arms but much better in my opinion. There is no good reason to use the ford radius arms. The axle mount may be done but the frame end usually sucks.

I would go with something like this. Stock radius arm sleeved with DOM tubing with a bung in the end of it. make it any length you want to any spec you want.



We cut out a slot in the tubing so it could slide over. Of course bevelded the edges and all the right stuff for welding.


Hope that gives you an idea.

Matt

EDIT: matt didnt buy the first or seccond set of arms. Phil Lambardy helped with designs and ideas on the first one. Just so that is all clear :wave:

Scrappy said:

I would go with something like this. Stock radius arm sleeved with DOM tubing with a bung in the end of it. make it any length you want to any spec you want.

We cut out a slot in the tubing so it could slide over. Of course bevelded the edges and all the right stuff for welding.

Hope that gives you an idea.

Matt

EDIT: matt didnt buy the first or seccond set of arms. Phil Lambardy helped with designs and ideas on the first one. Just so that is all clear :wave:

Click to expand...

Wow, that is, by far, the best way I've ever seen to do that. :cheers:
Billy

Scrappy said:

I would go with something like this. Stock radius arm sleeved with DOM tubing with a bung in the end of it. make it any length you want to any spec you want.

We cut out a slot in the tubing so it could slide over. Of course bevelded the edges and all the right stuff for welding.


Hope that gives you an idea.

Matt

Click to expand...

is the arm slightly bent in the first pic or is it an optical illusion?

very nice solution to extending arms and pinion degree

yeup it is bent. To clear the frame rails. these arms have more clearance than a stock setup!

Scrappy said:

yeup it is bent. To clear the frame rails. these arms have more clearance than a stock setup!

Click to expand...

So they're bent horizontally?

Not vertically?

hmmm...interesting

btw... Thanks for posting pics and sharing ideas