• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Dino or Synth in a new engine (stroker)

NHxj4x4

NAXJA Member #1132
Location
Keene NH
Guys,

I've never seen this been asked, should I run Dino or Synth in a new stroker? Or should I run dino for the first few and then switch to Synth?

Thanks!

Todd
 
Run dino until the rings seat or you may have problems getting them to seat. I'm from the old school. I run straight 30w non-detergent to break in motors and change it at 300 miles and 1,000 miles. Then at 2k I go with Valvoline dura-blend.
 
Depends on the tolerances, brand new factory engines are built to very high tolerances and can handle synthetic. I'd break it in with organic dino for at least the first 6 oil changes provided you do them at 50, 100, 500, 1000 and 3000mi, then I would run it another 3000mi with organic which is what I always do on any engine that has new internals like that...then do the switch over...
 
Cool, thank you both, I'll go Dino, to synth at around 6K or so. I think I'm going to do the "blend" full synth is pretty expensive.
 
NHxj4x4 said:
Guys,

I've never seen this been asked, should I run Dino or Synth in a new stroker? Or should I run dino for the first few and then switch to Synth?
Thanks!

Todd

As Tom said, you need to run me (yes, I'm Dino) in your newly built stroker for the break-in so that the rings, bearings, and other wear surfaces are properly bedded in. I ran dino in mine for the first 3000 miles and then switched to Mobil 1 0W-40. Did my first oil change at 600 miles and the second at 3000. Now I'm at 7300 miles and will do the third oil change at 9000 (synth. is good for 6000 miles).
__________________________
Dino's "Mean Green Machine"
1992 XJ Laredo 4-dr - 4.6L I6 HO Stroker - 182k miles - AX15, NP231, D35c, D30
small.A9DFB5LA1GZW1.jpg

263hp@4900/321lbft@3300-3800, 1/4 mile = [email protected], 0-60 = 5.7secs
Websites - Jeep 4.0 Performance, 4.6L Stroker Build-Up, Dino's Jeep Tricks
 
Dr. Dyno said:
As Tom said, you need to run me (yes, I'm Dino) in your newly built stroker for the break-in so that the rings, bearings, and other wear surfaces are properly bedded in. I ran dino in mine for the first 3000 miles and then switched to Mobil 1 0W-40. Did my first oil change at 600 miles and the second at 3000. Now I'm at 7300 miles and will do the third oil change at 9000 (synth. is good for 6000 miles).

I like doing the first oil change fast, on my new 82 S10 I did the first oil change at 500 mi, cut the filter open and the filter was pretty contaminated with black sand from the castings and quite a bit of metal dust. On newly machined engines on the first fast change the amount of filings and be pretty shocking plus any oil snot that the boiling did not get out, only loosened in the passages. I started doing this when my 76 Dodges 440 gave me choke problems in cold weather, pulled the intake off and the crossover for the heat riser was packed solid with casting sand, been cautious ever since. Oil changes are cheap insurance...
To this day I still wonder where the tywrap came from in my 87 Trooper's thermostat. I had never had the cooling system open, had not flushed it yet nor replaced any parts on it, heck, never even had the pressure cap off. But one cold sub zero morning my thermostat stuck open, no heat. It was a freaking ty wrap stuck in the tstat keeping it open, go figure..
 
Back
Top