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242 vs 231??

Mudskipper

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fitchburg , MA
I have an 87 with a 242 tcase but I also have a 231 out of a 91. I have a SYE for the 231. Should I swap the cases? Are the linkages the same? What problems could I run into?
 
Keep the 242,you got evrything(except SYE options) that a 231 has plus more,especially since your in snow/ice country!
 
My family has 4 Jeeps: 2 with the 231, 1 with the 242, and 1 with whatever the Rubicon's is labled. We've found that in bad driving conditions, no matter which vehicle, part-time works best. The full-time feature on the 242 really doesn't work that well on snow and ice.

So if it would fit, I'd swap and take advantage of the SYE. That's if you're lifting it anyway. If you're not, I wouldn't mess with it IMHO.
 
I have no issues with a 242 that is in good working order... Like RCP says, it has that 'fulltime' mode... Which can be nice in mixed dry/slippery road conditions.

OTOH with the 242 it is hard to find a 4:1 low range and the SYE choices are limited.

The 87-89 have 21 spline inputs and the 90- newer ones have 23 splines. So it won't be a direct bolt in swap.

I swapped a 89 231 into another 89 that had a bad 242... it was pretty much bolt-in, but the 231 has vacuum switch/ports for the front disco axle/light where the 242 has an electric plug that lights it's two lights. I capped off the vac ports on mine, since it's pretty obvious when it's in 4WD hi or low. The hard mounted linkage works with either case, but IIRC I used the removable link-rod from the 231. And I used the proper shifter (console) bezel. The only 'odd' case issue is that a 231 from a Peugot 5 speed has a unique and $$$ rubber mount. If you have the 242/auto, that mount is the same as the 90-newer AX15 5 speeds.
 
Mudskipper said:
I have an 87 with a 242 tcase but I also have a 231 out of a 91. I have a SYE for the 231. Should I swap the cases? Are the linkages the same? What problems could I run into?

If its a H-n-T kit you can swap it over also!
 
If the 242 is in good working order I’d keep it. As mentioned above the hack and tap kit will work with both. Check with the manufacture, the rear seal may be different, but they aren’t very expensive. My ’91 has a 242 in it and I love it. I run mine in full time from mid October to the end of February. On the really icy stuff 2 wheel drive sucks. When you go around a corner the rear end will pass you if you don’t watch it. 4 part time does better at keeping the vehicle straight. Unfortunately when you turn the corner the vehicle tends to go straight, not very desirable either. This is where full time really shines. It keeps the vehicle tracking correctly, but you can still make turns with ease. Don’t get me wrong, if you give it lots of gas and crank the wheel the back end will still slide around on you, but it is much more controllable than either 2 wheel or 4 part time. I’ve driven a couple of TJs with 231s in the winter. I think it’s a toss up if it’s better to run in 2 wheel or 4 part time; either way they get pretty squirrelly in the turns. The only thing I could do was slow down to a crawl and ease it through the corners. It makes you real popular with the traffic behind you. I was introduced to a few names I hadn’t heard before that way :gag:
 
Tom Woods makes a complete fixed yoke / driveshaft kit for the 242... just order it, bolt it in & go. IIRC $100 core deposit returned when you return your unhacked & untapped shaft...so it's like $400+ shipping for a complete, bolt in kit.

You can go the hack & tap route if you are handy with tools, then source a driveshaft locally - IF you have a reputable driveline shop that understands 4WD requirements.



www.4xshaft.com
 
All the Jeeps we own have the 242 (4 XJ's and a ZJ) and love them in the snow. My sisters is in full time, all the time, I normally use 2wd when nice but once it gets slick I use it. We've only had one failure and that was well over 200k on Dad's '90.
 
woody said:
Tom Woods makes a complete fixed yoke / driveshaft kit for the 242... just order it, bolt it in & go. IIRC $100 core deposit returned when you return your unhacked & untapped shaft...so it's like $400+ shipping for a complete, bolt in kit.


$700 for the 242 kit...sans $200 when he receives your core shaft.
 
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