Dynomat/R-Blox in doors for road noise?

Just ordered 50 sq ft of R-Blox sound deadener from E-bay, should be equal to Dynomat. Any way I’m going to install it on my 90 four door, in hopes of depressing some road noise. I plan on putting it “inside the door (back side of outer sheet metal) and under the interior door panels. Has anyone done this before and if so, how did it work out?

james
www.geocities.com/jammerjamesharmon

I used 1/2" carpet padding with 3m trim adhesive to glue it up under the rear cargo area carpet, behind the rear panals and down the wheel wells. It's also under the driver side from the rear seat forward to the firewall. Really quited it down. It was on the pass side floor as well but had a little rust/water thing to get rid of so it's now bed liner/all the floors are treat with rust proofing/seam sealer under the padding.
So go for it. Juice

juicexj24 said:

I used 1/2" carpet padding with 3m trim adhesive to glue it up under the rear cargo area carpet, behind the rear panals and down the wheel wells. It's also under the driver side from the rear seat forward to the firewall. Really quited it down. It was on the pass side floor as well but had a little rust/water thing to get rid of so it's now bed liner/all the floors are treat with rust proofing/seam sealer under the padding.
So go for it. Juice

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I've already added the 1/2" of carpet foam under all the carpet and used it to fill in the space in the rear between the interior metal and the outer sheet metal. Yelp, big difference, just looking for more. Oh also the thicker door seals from the later models helped a bunch on the front doors.


james

I used Dynamat Extreme on my last XJ. I worked in the auto sound industry at the time, so I got it relatively cheap. I stripped out the whole interior and did it all. Like you said, the inside of the outer skin, and under the panels, the whole floor (up the firewall too) and even the roof (dropping the head liner,pita). When I shut the door the first time after being all done, it was like a vaccuum. VERY quiet... for a Jeep. I would do it again, but I am not working there anymore....don't feel like spending that much $ for a quiet ride. Good luck... Oh, I also used the hoodliner D-Mat has, really made the 4.0 quiet.

XJClassic said:

I used Dynamat Extreme on my last XJ. I worked in the auto sound industry at the time, so I got it relatively cheap. I stripped out the whole interior and did it all. Like you said, the inside of the outer skin, and under the panels, the whole floor (up the firewall too) and even the roof (dropping the head liner,pita). When I shut the door the first time after being all done, it was like a vaccuum. VERY quiet... for a Jeep. I would do it again, but I am not working there anymore....don't feel like spending that much $ for a quiet ride. Good luck... Oh, I also used the hoodliner D-Mat has, really made the 4.0 quiet.

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Sweet, so you would say it worked :cheers:

If you only have 50 square feet, concentrate on the problem aras. The floorpan beneath your feet, firewall, and the rear cargo floor are basically sheetmetal drums. The roof is also really helpful (especilally in an XJ) to deaden. I've soundproofed a couple of cars and trucks, but don't want to do the jeep b/c it gets swapmed every once in a while.

if you're doing vertical surfaces like doors STAY AWAY from the peel back self adhesive kind of deadeners. The will eventually slough off over time and gunk up your locks and wiring. The kinds you use with a heat gun are a pain, but the adhesion is far superior.

R-Blox update

Ordered 50sq ft off of e-Bay for 120, that includes shipping. Installed on the back side of the sheet metal on the four doors and under the interior panels on each door, so basically two layers under each door. Sound decreased very noticeable, say 20%. Then installed on rear hatch and on the hatch panel, again basically two layers. Sound decreased another 20%. So for 120 I get a vehicle that is twice as quite, half as loud, how ever you want to look at it. Stereo sounds much better to boot. I have, spent a fortune on my rig and countless hours of modifying, but this is right up there on the top ways to improve the XJ, as far as time and money are spent. Sure wish I knew about this stuff when I had the whole interior out a while back, I would have covered everything!!!!!!!!

This is much recommended……………………..

Double layered Dynamat everywhere, including front doors, bang on the ouside sheet metal while driving and you'll here the difference, especially listening to an all acoustic God rest his soul Johnny Cash disc.

Mind you, this was before I bacame "frugal", I'm countin' beans for a down payment on a fl. home down payment, might improvise now.

Mike #300

I have used Dynamat or Brown Bread in every vehicle I've ever owned (5) and have always been impressed with the results by first focusing on the problem areas.
The floor and firewall areas in an XJ are much more difficult to install than the doors (and also transmit the most noise). Most of your noise is due to road noise from your tires and/or from the engine.
I almost always do my sound deadening in phases because of buget and time (I hate driving around with things torn out of my vehicle).
Since the doors are relatively easy to do (in comparison to the floor) and transmit the least amount of noise, my suggestion is to start with the floor under your feet, at the firewall and around your rear wheel wells.
Now here's where I get wishy-washy. Since you have a limited amount of material to work with, you need to decide what's most impartant to you.
If you're having vibration issues with your door speakers, then doing the doors first might be your preferred solution. Will also give a nice clean 'thud' when you close the doors!

Is there a cheaper solution to dynamat? I'd like to have a quiter ride also, but not ready to pony up that cash. Plus my interior is completly out right now, so it'd be a good time to do it.

Spidey said:

I have used Dynamat or Brown Bread in every vehicle I've ever owned (5) and have always been impressed with the results by first focusing on the problem areas.
The floor and firewall areas in an XJ are much more difficult to install than the doors (and also transmit the most noise). Most of your noise is due to road noise from your tires and/or from the engine.
I almost always do my sound deadening in phases because of buget and time (I hate driving around with things torn out of my vehicle).
Since the doors are relatively easy to do (in comparison to the floor) and transmit the least amount of noise, my suggestion is to start with the floor under your feet, at the firewall and around your rear wheel wells.
Now here's where I get wishy-washy. Since you have a limited amount of material to work with, you need to decide what's most impartant to you.
If you're having vibration issues with your door speakers, then doing the doors first might be your preferred solution. Will also give a nice clean 'thud' when you close the doors!

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Agree!!!!!!!!!!!! That's why I did the doors, if and when I pull the headliner or carpet out for some other reason, they will be done then...............

mission-inc said:

Is there a cheaper solution to dynamat? I'd like to have a quiter ride also, but not ready to pony up that cash. Plus my interior is completly out right now, so it'd be a good time to do it.

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If you read my first post, getting R-Blox off of e-Bay is 25% of the cost of dynamat, from your local sound shop. If you do only the floor, you can use house hold carpet padding, this works real well, as long as you don't get your carpet wet. This padding will also work in the hatch and interior pannels, excluding the doors, cause of the windows. I have already done this earler, but nothing in the doors till now. Would like to put R-Blox and the carpet padding. Also the roof would be good for R=Blox. Just can't have too much, don't weigh that much and the quite give you the mental impression of a very high quality built rig.

Sorry James, didn't read all of your messages before I spouted off. Guess that means it's getting close to sleepy-time for ol' spidey.
Mission-Inc, check out ebay.
There are several different types of Dynamat-type materials offered.
The Brown Bread stuff is usually quite a bit cheaper, and there are other 'me-too' brands as well. The old 'get what you pay for' rule applies, but anything is better than nothing. With some of the cheaper stuff, you may even be able to do two layers for less than what one layer of Dyna would cost you. One suggestion - when applying the material see if you can get your hands on a heat gun. It helps tremendously when trying to get the material to form to all of the nooks and crannies. Especially on the doors.

Okay James, so back to your original question...
I have done Dynamat on the inside of the outermost sheet metal before.
Not fun.
Mainly because there aren't a ton of gaping holes in the doors, so you have to work with relatively small pieces in order to get them through the holes. Then you have to try and get the pieces of the puzzle back together inside the door.
I already had Dynamat on the doors (between the sheet metal and the upholstery panels), so it's tough to say how much the additional layer helped. Certianly wasn't a huge difference, but I could tell a little more difference during bad weather (rain, sleet, hail).
I would say that if you have other areas that could use the Dynamat, you might be better served (and less frustrated in the end) to install the material in those places.

Cool, thanks for the info guys. I'll search around. I value a quiet ride and agree with you james, it's like your riding in a "quality" rig rather than a beater.

[/hijack]

mission-inc said:

Is there a cheaper solution to dynamat? I'd like to have a quiter ride also, but not ready to pony up that cash. Plus my interior is completly out right now, so it'd be a good time to do it.

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home page: http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/sitemap.htm

price page: http://www.soundproofing.org/sales/prices.html

I haven't ordered from them yet i got to busy this year wasn't a priority, but i do want to put some in.

When you compare prices to stuf fon ebay and dynamat, etc. for some reason the price there stuff by a "running foot" which is 12" wide 48" long. You can get a 1/8" mat in a running foot for $5.45 or $1.36 per sq. foot. Dynamatt is like 10 bucks per 11" sqaure panel. you can get these matts up to 2 inches thick. And they have panels designed for the floors and this stuff is marine grade and FAA aproved. Looks to be goos stuff. When it warms up here in Michigan :sunshine: i am going to town on my noises XJ.


from the price page quote: "Super Soundproofing Mat: A closed cell vinyl-nitrile noise control FOAM suitable for application to cars, boats, planes, home and office, anywhere a sound control mat is needed. Won't absorb moisture or odor, long lasting and durable. An excellent thermal insulator! (FAA Approved for aircraft, too! Ask to see the approvals). Just apply with vinyl or contact cement to reduce and absorb sound. (Note: this is NOT the cheap rubber/neoprene as sold by some suppliers!"

one note... if you get the metal backed stuff.... put on some heavy leather gloves. that stuff will cut you and bad..... I used to work in a stereo shop and cut myself a few times.

scotty

Just out of curiosity has anyone tried the rubber material that is used on roofs, comes in 4ft wide rolls for ice daming. I'ts pretty thick and has stickem on one side, price is pretty good too. I had a some pieces left over from last year when I had a new roof put on but not alot, 4ft x 2ft scrap piece.