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SYE for a 242

8

88bluecrunched

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Newberg, Oregon
I have the 242 t-case and am looking at the hack and tap because that is all i can do. Now I need a new rear drive shaft right where do i get one and how do I know how long it needs to be.

Troy
 
Tom Woods sells a SYE for the 242 with a new driveshaft. It's not really a true SYE but basically a stock mainshaft that TW has cut down, drilled and tapped. Basically a hap-n-tap that he does for you. If you order that SYE from him then he will ask for measuremts to make a new driveshaft.
 
In the future I'd like to do the same thing.
I plan on getting the RE hack and tap. I got a great price quote from Jay at www.mesa4x4.com
I have read that in some cases a XJ front driveshaft may work.
I plan on getting one from a junkyard, trying it out and having extended or shortened by a driveline shop. I figure that would be the cheapest way to go.

check out this thread too
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43285

Good luck
 
ClassicXJ said:
Tom Woods sells a SYE for the 242 with a new driveshaft. It's not really a true SYE but basically a stock mainshaft that TW has cut down, drilled and tapped.
Click to expand...

it is a TRUE SYE.

the slip yoke is eliminated.

therefore it is a slip yoke eliminator, truly.
 
Also unlike many other driveline shops, Tom Woods stands behind his products and workmanship... I've never bought from him, but I can't think of any other place I would buy a driveshaft and SYE from when the time comes.

I have had driveshafts built locally with good success in many aspects, but the shops were more in tune with the go-fast scene and the products were less than ideal for off-roading.
 
RedBluffBoy said:
I plan on getting the RE hack and tap.
I have read that in some cases a XJ front driveshaft may work.
I plan on getting one from a junkyard, trying it out and having extended or shortened by a driveline shop. I figure that would be the cheapest way to go.

check out this thread too
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43285

Good luck
Click to expand...

You heard incorrectly.
The front DS can be used with a HD SYE if you have 4-6" lift.
With a hack and tap, you need a flange-type ds, and not the standard 1310 yoke.
You can use a front ds, but you will need to change the mating surface to work with a hack and tap.
YMWNV
 
bgcntry72 said:
You heard incorrectly.
The front DS can be used with a HD SYE if you have 4-6" lift.
With a hack and tap, you need a flange-type ds, and not the standard 1310 yoke.
You can use a front ds, but you will need to change the mating surface to work with a hack and tap.
YMWNV
Click to expand...

Is there a big difference in output shaft length between a RE Hack n Tap and the HD SYE?

I have 4" of lift, RE Hack n Tap, a `95 XJ, and a 242 TC. An XJ front shaft WILL NOT fit without being lengthened. I lengthened mine 2.125" and had it balanced at a driveshaft shop.

Of course, this is after putting on the right flange as bgcntry72 mentioned.

For those interested in cost:

RE Hack n Tap SYE -$140
Junkyard XJ front driveshaft -$50
Flange (spicer part #211229x) -$45
6" steel tubing to lengthen shaft -$0.25
Professional driveshaft balance -$50

TOTAL: $285.25
 
Last edited:
bgcntry72 said:
You heard incorrectly.
The front DS can be used with a HD SYE if you have 4-6" lift.
With a hack and tap, you need a flange-type ds, and not the standard 1310 yoke.
You can use a front ds, but you will need to change the mating surface to work with a hack and tap.
YMWNV
Click to expand...

True on the lift part, but if you use a Tom Woods SYE, it is a yoke style, not a flange, so you could conceivably use a front shaft...
 
I'll give you a heads up if you get the TW SYE, use locktite to hold the outter seal in. When I called about it the guy on the phone said it was a problem they were having with something that happend there(ie their fault) yet he still wanted $10 for a new seal, load of shit :) Took my old seal to Napa and it should be here in the morning, way quicker and cheaper than what they wanted.
 
Six years and 95k miles ago when Tom was at SixStates, I bought a d/s and Currie sye for my 98's 242. He listened carefully what I had to say/ask, and got my business forever.

No problems at all, save for a blown rear u-joint that I never maintained.

I've spoken to him on a couple of occasions, I would not consider anyone else but him and his advice for any type of work he does.

I have no idea what's the current top choice for sye/242's, but I would call him to find out.

Mike #300
 
Having owned the RE hack & tap for the 242 and their d/s, then going thru three different flanges, my mainshaft's splines wore. Then finally calling Tom Woods and ordering his SYE, I should have just call him first. Granted it is also a hack and tap, but he does it and you do get a longer d/s with his system, plus having a flange style yoke. Which you can also get a stock geaseable CV centering joint for. Spicer doesn't make a greaseable 1310 flange style CV centering joint. And for a guy that lives in the snow and salt belt, being able to grease things is important. Call Tom Woods and do it right the first time.
 
CartsXJ said:
Having owned the RE hack & tap for the 242 and their d/s, then going thru three different flanges, my mainshaft's splines wore. Then finally calling Tom Woods and ordering his SYE, I should have just call him first. Granted it is also a hack and tap, but he does it and you do get a longer d/s with his system, plus having a flange style yoke. Which you can also get a stock geaseable CV centering joint for. Spicer doesn't make a greaseable 1310 flange style CV centering joint. And for a guy that lives in the snow and salt belt, being able to grease things is important. Call Tom Woods and do it right the first time.
Click to expand...

I second that. TW's idea of remachining the 242's output is to address the problem of the splines wearing down.
 
I know this is an ancient thread but I could not find similar discussion elsewhere.

If I use Tom Woods 242 SYE on a stocker, will I be able to use a junkyard front shaft?

I am trying to do the SYE before I lift, and don't want to buy a shaft now.
 
A related question.

I have a 99 XJ I just lifted roughly 3 inches. In the rear I have the Chrysler 8.25, NV242 T-Case, and Auto Tranny. Nasty vibes even with 4 degree shims. I read on GoJeep's site that he used the output shaft from a Corvette (or something like this) and hack n' tap'd his T-case the same as RE.

http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSYEconversion.htm

My question starts there, if I Hack and Tap my T-Case, could I use the above method combined with a stock front DS? I like the idea of having the same setup front and rear making them interchangeable if it ever becomes necessary. :D
 
I just installed a tom woods SYE and drive shaft on my 97 with an NP242. He asked some questions when I ordered it, I had visited his web site so I had the answers written down. The instructions were clear, the installation was straightforward. I'd buy another one from him when the time comes.

Mark
 
Jeepxj13 - That depends on the year of your vehicle and a number of mystery factors. I have run 6.5" in the rear with no SYE but my understanding was that I was a lucky one.

I ran a Tom Woods SYE and driveshaft on my old 3/4 ton XJ and have nothing but good things to say about the product and the company. I did manage to snap a drive shaft in half about a year after I purchased it. However Tom Woods was very helpful and for the price of shipping the old shaft back I had a brand new 1350 jointed shaft at my door in about 7 days. Even better is he built the shaft longer as I used the breakage as an oppurtunity to extend my wheelbase 4.5".
 
nuke said:
A related question.

I have a 99 XJ I just lifted roughly 3 inches. In the rear I have the Chrysler 8.25, NV242 T-Case, and Auto Tranny. Nasty vibes even with 4 degree shims. I read on GoJeep's site that he used the output shaft from a Corvette (or something like this) and hack n' tap'd his T-case the same as RE.

http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSYEconversion.htm

My question starts there, if I Hack and Tap my T-Case, could I use the above method combined with a stock front DS? I like the idea of having the same setup front and rear making them interchangeable if it ever becomes necessary. :D
Click to expand...

If you run the same yoke as I did and you have a auto along with your 8.25 rear axle, you can run a stock AUTO front shaft. You cannot run a stock front shaft if you have EITHER a manual AND OR a D35 rear axle.
 
Gojeep said:
If you run the same yoke as I did and you have a auto along with your 8.25 rear axle, you can run a stock AUTO front shaft. You cannot run a stock front shaft if you have EITHER a manual AND OR a D35 rear axle.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I knew the flanged setup worked with the front DS, but wasn't sure if your setup would stretch the slip yoke too far. Appreciate the post!
 
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