Hayden Fan Clutch???

Anyone have any expeirence with the Hayden fan clutch thats sold by Oreilly Auto Parts?? I ran a search on which one to get and it came up with the Carquest one, however I don't have a Carquest near me. I understand the Vatozone fan clutch (Imperial) is too long. I held this Hayden next to the OEM one and its a litte shorter than OEM. Just wondering if anyone has ever used this one or knows anything about it. Its too late for me to put it in tonite, so it'll go in this week sometime. If no one knows about them then I'll post a write up on it after a few weeks of use.:dunno:

Mike

Backdraft,

I think the critical thing on a fan clutch is getting one that is the same shape/size. I don't know anything about the Hayden brand but what type of warranty do they give you, if it 12 months or lifetime I'd go for it.

My experience with the imperial is that has too much stuck in front of the fan so I could not install it without tilting the radiator.

I just looked up at rockauto.com and they sell the AC/Delco clutch for $54.37 + shipping. I pulled off an AC/Delco fan clutch off my 88 XJ and it was the OE clutch.

I would not have a problem with the Hayden clutch if it is the same size as your old clutch, if not then order the delco one from Rockauto.

HTH

Martin

Backdraft,

I reread you post and I would avoid the hayden clutch. if it is shorter like you say. The fan needs to positioned in the shroud so you can pull air through the radiator.

I had a buddy who installed a fixed fan on his 1990 mustang with the 5.0. He had the plastic fan crack and saw it was cheaper to buy a flex fan than to buy a new OEM fan. He noticed he did not get as much cooling because of the difference you noticed, the fan was not in the shroud any more.

If I was in your shoes I'd order the Delco one from Rockauto.

Martin

Has anyone ever found that these fan clutches actually engage more when they are hot? I bought a new one from the dealer last year for our '90, but I can't feel a bit of difference imediately after driving compared to cold.
The '92 I bought more recently roared loudly because the fan clutch was locked up, so I put on one I got from a junkyard. Now it's so loose that the fan is still spinning 20 seconds after I turn off the engine.

Martin,

I see what your saying. This thing has a lifetime warranty. I told the guy when i got it earlier that if my jeep overheated then i was gonna bring it back and get my money back. He said no problem, so that cool. I looked around and theres a carquest in town, but waaaaay over on the otherside of town. It looks like the Hayden may be shorter by maybe 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. Dunno if that will make a big difference or what. Ill give this one a shot and see what happens, if its a no go then I'll got over to Carquest and get the Delco instead. I dont have any bones about that. Think I might be installin this stuff this next weekend. By the way, im converting to the open cooling system. So thats where these questions are stemming from. I've been running the flex a lite 110 and it doesnt do a thing for me in texas heat....LOL Another question I have is the 2 lines running into and out of the pressure bottle.....can i jsut connect those 2 heater hoses together with a nipple and go about my business?

Backdraft,

The fan clutch I got at Carquest was in a carquest brand box, not sure who made it. It may of been Delco but not sure, just wanted you to know the carquest is not necessarily a delco brand clutch.

Here is a write up on the converstion to the open style colling sytem, it should answer most of your questions: http://www.olypen.com/craigh/rad.htm You should be able to connect those two but you might be better off going all the way and converting to the open system hoses and heater vavle.

The only problem with converting is how to have the electric colling fan come on since there is no fitting on the open radiator for the sensor. I recall performanceradiator.com will supply you an open style radiator with the electric fan sensor fitting in the cold tank. You will have to talk to them on the phone to get the right radiator.

Martin

Ive already got the open style GDI 3 row, a new fan shroud, assorted nuts and bolts, blah, blah, blah, all the other odds and ends for it. Only thing i was needing was the fan clutch and the brains at Oreilly dont know chit bout the fan clutch issue nor did they have a heater valve in stock. However, like i said, I'll give this a whirl and see what happens. Otherwise I'll make a trip to the dealership if Carquest doenst have the junk i need. I did go into Oreilly yesterday and the Einstein behind the counter that time didnt have but 2 of the needed heater hoses along with the wrong upper rad. hose. then proceeded to tell me that the fan clutch i needed was 200 bucks Needless to say, i told him to keep it if thats what they wanted. Today i got a more knowledgable kid to help me out.

BTW Martin,

I represent your sig line.......LOL

I don't know if you really get any improvment by converting. The major gotcha with the closed systems was the residual income that MB/Chrysler gets from that plastic bottle and with eagle finding the aluminum replacement I'd just go with that as a good solution.

Well, I would have gone that route if I had known about it sooner..LOL I've already spent the money to get all this open style componets. Oh well, live and learn i suppose.

Mike

I put a haden in mine. Fits fine... except the darn tabs on the front... do yourself a favor and tilt the radiator before you install it..... I didn't and now I own a brand new 3 core GDI rad... it has plenty of clearence and the fan will be under the shroud when installed



I bought new upper and lower hoses, new thermostat... should have pulled the waterpump... but the New radiator drained my checking acount...

RINGKONG,

Thanks for the heads up. How do you like yours so far?

Mike

Backdraft said:

RINGKONG,

Thanks for the heads up. How do you like yours so far?

Mike

Click to expand...

Works good so far... it's only been in 2 days.

Now if I can just figure out my brake dragging problem..

I bought this vehicle for the body... kinda wish the idiot before me didn't try to fix it ... I am finding all kinds of wierd stuff he tried to fix..

Jeez, know what you mean about past idiots, i mean owners.....
Which brake is dragging, front or rear?...If its the front, it might be new caliper time. If its rear, it might be 12 ga. birdshot time...LOL

Mike

Backdraft said:

Jeez, know what you mean about past idiots, i mean owners.....
Which brake is dragging, front or rear?...If its the front, it might be new caliper time. If its rear, it might be 12 ga. birdshot time...LOL

Mike

Click to expand...

It's the front brakes.. both sides.

I have replaced the calipers on both sides, and a new master cylinder. The brake pedal looks to be broke unless the past owner didn't put it back together correctly, I haven't crawled under to look.. It flops ... I mean I can lift it straigt up..

It has me stumped...