sprinkler1228
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Raleigh,NC
Anyone ever use these? Have any pictures?
http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm
http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm
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Tie rod flip inserts
- Thread starter sprinkler1228
- Start date
IntrepidXJ
NAXJA Member #647
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I have since changed it to a castle nut with a cotter pin
LBEXJ
NAXJA Member #721
- Location
- Parke County, Indiana
I installed the goferit bushing ... IMO a good low cost way to gain tie rod clearance ... and easy to do. Randy's pics show the increased clearance very well.
Les
Les
trailxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- las vegas, nv
i have the goferit flip kit as well.
easy install. only modification i had to do was grind the extended sway bar mount for tierod clearance at full lock...
Definatly gets the tie rod up and out of the way and can't beat the price. Keep in mind that you'll have to buy a big ass 3/4 in drill bit as well, mine was 18 bucks i think. I drilled mine with my cordless drill. So drilling the knuckle isn't that difficult.
easy install. only modification i had to do was grind the extended sway bar mount for tierod clearance at full lock...
Definatly gets the tie rod up and out of the way and can't beat the price. Keep in mind that you'll have to buy a big ass 3/4 in drill bit as well, mine was 18 bucks i think. I drilled mine with my cordless drill. So drilling the knuckle isn't that difficult.
jjmat3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Big Bear & Lancaster
Any downside to doing this mod? Any other input from those that have done it? Other options for the same type of mod?
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Option are to buy a tapered reamer and re-taper the hole from above. Costs a little more ($50 for the reamer. Don't forget to add in the 3/4" drill bit cost if you don't own one already) for the reamer and requires careful reaming, but if you have more than one rig to do, the reamer pays for itself on the 2nd rig.
Last edited:
Spanky414
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Bay, Ontario, Canada
Does it only do the drivers side? Why not both?
Why does it say you must use the special nut that comes with it?
Good idea though thats for sure.
Why does it say you must use the special nut that comes with it?
Good idea though thats for sure.
IntrepidXJ
NAXJA Member #647
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Spanky414 said:
yes, only drivers side with stock steering setup. look at the tie rod end on the passenger side...it's part of the drag link, it cannot be rotated.
the nut they send is a locking nut. i didn't use it....i went back to a castle nut w/ cotter pin
xxxj-va
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Richmond, VA
What wire/rod do you use to mate the insert to the cast knuckle?
-P
-P
87CherokeeChief
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramental
so to do this mod you dont actaully have to buy that special nut?
trailxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- las vegas, nv
87CherokeeChief said:
the nut comes with the kit.
the insert technically does not have to be welded in place to work. welding it keeps it from staying on the tierod end when you remove the tie rod. Getting the insert off the TRE when its stuck on there is PITA...had to wrestle with that one a few times.
IntrepidXJ said:
I am doing both sides but as stated above you can not use the standard drag link. It is because when you flip it over the bends in it go the wrong way. For me this is easy to overcome as all I have to do is use a LHD drag link. You guys would have to use a RHD link.
JerryV
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Appleton, WI
Gojeep said:
I am looking to do the same thing. Do you know if the replacement of the DL is all that is needed? Or will the adjusting sleave and the rest need to be change also. What are you doing with your track bar? I am considering using the skyjacker TB with a little beefing of the axle end mount.
Jerry
DrMoab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The Utah Backwater
Another option is to buy a tapered reamer and go down from the top. Then buy one ton chevy TREs and build you an inverted T set up instead of the inverted Y.
willysnut
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Newnan, Ga.
I think the shoulder of the locknut prevents the bushing from pulling thru or creeping out of the top of the arm. I guess a grade 8 washer with a castle nut would be good too.
I like the idea and will be installing those we we get settled in Ga.
I like the idea and will be installing those we we get settled in Ga.
RNMedic
NAXJA Member #659
- Location
- Dayton, Ohio
was looking at doing that the RHD tie rod can be had at dealers ask for one for a Postal XJ, they were all RHD, but they are around 175 bucks!!!Gojeep said:
JerryV said:
It is only the drag link needed as I checked all the part numbers between a LHD and RHD and the only one different in the whole steering links was the drag link.
You will have to raise the trackbar at the axle or lower at the frame end the same amount as gained by doing the flip over to prevent bumpsteer.
DrMoab said:Another option is to buy a tapered reamer and go down from the top. Then buy one ton chevy TREs and build you an inverted T set up instead of the inverted Y.
I have thought about doing this also and have seen it done a few time before. Did you make your own links up as well or were you able to source some from a Chevy etc that you could use? Otherwise it would cost a bit getting RH and LH taps to do it.
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