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35's w/ 4.5" of lift?

94XJ4x4

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bitburg, Germany
I want to run 35's on my xj with rustys 4.5" system. How much bump stop will i need front and rear so that i will not rub if i trim the fenders and chop the quarter panels like this... I'm sorry i cant figure out how to make this a direct link so here is the URL.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29750

Different opinions on what i should do are welcome. I havnt decided for sure what i am going to do. I will get a dana 44 with a locker of some sort and 4.88 gearing. which brings me to another question. What is the cheapest reliable locker that is rated to handle 35" tires? Thanks.
 
Well for starters, to run 35s on 4.5" of lift you are gonna have to cut the shit outta that XJ. Trimming is usually recommended for 33s! You are probably going to want to upgrade the steering for 35s as well.
 
i have 33's right now and they dont rub too bad. although my swaybar is still connected. and they do rub. just not horribly. haha. What if i get a daynastar 1.75" lift with coil spacers and a shackel to add to my rustys lift then at an extended yoke?
 
oh and about the steering conversion. how about rustys knuckle to knuckle system and slap dual steering stabilizers on? would that be sufficant. i dont want to get a drop pitman arm because it puts too much stress on the gear box and subframe. maybe a zj pitman arm? they arnt too bad, right? or would i not need it after the conversion?
 
Putting the Budget Boost on would no doubt help, but if going that route why not just get a 5.5" lift to begin with and start from there. My concern would be with the steering box itself, make sure to reinforce it. I haven't seen the Rusty's conversion but with that much lift a drop arm of some sort would almost be required.
 
...Because i already bought and installed the Rustys kit. Im 17 and limited on funding. Basically i save up enough money until i cant stand it any more then buy as much as i can with it. if you want to see My xj so far i have a cardomain page

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/663326

Im prety sure that ill get the BB now that i think about it. i dont know why i woulnt. they are relativly cheap anyway. Im almost posative the extended yoke will work with that much lift along with the 1 un tcase drop i already have. what do you think?
 
Ill scrounge up enough. Im not replacing the front axle though. Ill just snag a few spare shafts from the local pic and pull and buy some stronger u joints along with a few spares.
 
How much would u expect a shop to charge to install 4.88 gearing in a dana 44 and 30 along with a locker in the dana 44. (not counting the price for the locker because i dont know which one im getting yet)
 
94XJ4x4 said:
How much would u expect a shop to charge to install 4.88 gearing in a dana 44 and 30 along with a locker in the dana 44. (not counting the price for the locker because i dont know which one im getting yet)

$500-$600--gear work ain't cheap
 
i would never run 35's with anything less the 6 inches and that is with chopped fenders.i know i have 8 inches of lift with 35's cut fenders and still rub on the rocks when i need to flex
 
Wil Badger said:
i would never run 35's with anything less the 6 inches and that is with chopped fenders.i know i have 8 inches of lift with 35's cut fenders and still rub on the rocks when i need to flex

congratulations :wave: .....i will see you on a 35 degree side hill. 4.5 inches of lift is plenty for 35's with trimming. I have 33's and 4.5 and wish i had 35's. COG is what its all about, but i also run 2.5inches of backspacing on my wheels.
 
Well i guess im just crazy like that. Check out "cheapxj"??? if yo havnt already. i think that's the correct user name. well.. the point is they were running 36's on 3 in of lift. Now if you can pull that off and make it work thats cooler in my book then just getting a massive amount of lift so you can fit the tires easy. not that there is anything wrong with that. Huge xjs are awesome. I love seeing them. But i have come close to rolling my xj a couple times as it is. 8" of lift for me would be not a good move. Beside i dont need that much flex. its not THAT important to me at the moment. In some cases it could have helped but most of the time i was just on a gnarly slant. Of course i need a decent amount. enough to keep at least 3 tires on the ground. haha. Beside that I like the feeling of comming close to a roll. its a rush as most of you probably alredy know. If i do in fact roll it, it will just give me an excuse to chop the top and build an exoskeleton. :) I think i will be able to flex enough after the BB and geting disconects to keep me rubber side down more or less. Im going to chop the lower half of the quarter panels too to give me more room and extend the bump stops to reduce rubbing if not illiminate it. My only real concern is involving the driveshafts at the moement. but i think an extended yoke along with my Tcase drop will work. if not, Ill just have to get a SYE and driveshaft or extent existing driveshafts and hope it works out. Of course if im overlooking something or you know something i dont. Which is very likley. let me know. Thanks for all your Imput guys. keep it comming. i still dont know how much to extent the bump stops after the BB with 35s.
 
KrazieXJ! thanks for the post. I thought that 4.5 would be enough too. but seing how Ive been told that i will want more lift im not sure. Im still a rookie. Maybe ill just chop, find someone with 35's and try them on for size. Before i go any further. Still keep the posts comming. The more input i get the better. No matter what the opinion.
 
I wouldn't add the BB to your 4.5" kit. I'm with Mike (krazieXJ), if you are planning to trim and properly bumpstop, then 4.5" is plenty for 35's. You sound like you are on the right track with the trimming and bumpstops (although hacking the rear quarters is not necessary, but it doesn't hurt). Check the tech page of my website for some articles I did on fender trimming and properly adjusting bumpstops to help you out there. Dirk (www.dpgoffroad.com) only has 5" of lift and 35's and it flexes great without rubbing, because his trimming is in check and his bumpstops are properly adjusted. I was running 6" of lift and 37" MT/R's without any major reconstructive surgery to the rear wheel wells. Here's Dirk's XJ flexing with 5" and 35's:

robyn3.jpg

robyn4.jpg


As for the driveline, you're doing pretty good with setting up your suspension very well, so why mess with cheap alternatives that actually don't fix anything except vibes caused from UJoint binding. Do it right and get the SYE/CV driveshaft and forget about it. Vibes are a very minor problem. The real problem is the stress on the TCase and the output shaft/bearing. The taller you go, the more downward pressure is applied to the end of the output shaft. Downward pressure causes bowing. Bowing a rod that rotates at high speeds is bad. I'll try to give a visual of what is going on with your output shaft/bearing. Take a wooden dowel rod, put the middle of it over your knee/thigh, put downward pressure at one end while leaving the other end stationary, then roll it back and forth over your leg while maintaining the downward pressure. The bow will be at the fulcrum which is your leg. When a rod is bowed, and neither end can move from it's plane, and it is spinning at high speeds, the most stress will be at the crest of the bow at the fulcrum. If you roll that dowel rod over your leg for awhile, it will disintegrate at the fulcrum. The dowel is the output shaft of your TCase and your leg is the output bearing and the downward pressure is from the angle of the driveshaft. This is what is happening to your TCase. Anyone can do this experiment. The taller the lift, the more downward pressure at the end of the rod, the faster the output shaft will fail. When it fails, the TCase components will grenade, the housing will split, and your wallet will be empty.
A SYE shortens the length of the output shaft, which makes it stronger. Take a dowel rod, bend it over your leg like before, but shorten the side receiving the downward pressure by 2/3, and repeat the experiment. The rod doesn't bend as easily with the same pressure applied to the longer rod, therefore it will last longer before failure. Then the CV shaft and shims take care of the UJoint vibe problem. Many people think it is all about the vibes, and if you don't have vibes, you don't have a problem. They think if you have a pre 96 XJ, you don't have a problem. Wrong. There may not be a vibe problem, but there is still the same stress on the TCase, and failure will still occur.
I would rather have vibes with a SYE and replace UJoints, than not have vibes and save UJoints with a TCase drop, shims, longer yoke, longer driveshaft and have to replace the TCase. What sense does that make? Then, after saving a few dollars on cheap vibe solutions and blow up the TCase, your back to where you started...a stock TCase and vibes. Would you put that cheap crap back on again knowing it blew up the last TCase? People think they are saving money by not getting a SYE. If you have to replace a TCase, and then install a SYE after learning a lesson, how much money did you save?

Blah, blah, blah, ok I'm done. Hope that helps and makes sense.
 
ahh the ole add a budget boost to my already existing lift
thats how I got caught up in the lift madness..
I ended up with 8" and 35's not bumopstoped properly and not chopped enough

Heres what I suggest
REMOVE your fenders and get some test 35 on there and check how much you would have to hack off
then if yoiu need more lift add to it

I myself would hack of as much fender as you possibly can acording to your fender laws
and go from there
you want to run 35 's right
if yoiu get the BB then I can see an SYE in youir future
I think I paid $170 for the sye and $260 for the drive shaft form dirk

good stuff

what happened to me is that I putt the BB on and my rig and the driveline angle was so severe I caooudnt even drive the thing

it had to sit till I could get the sye in 7 days with hurry up shipping
 
GottaBeJeep, I didn't find anything on the DPG website about Dirk's XJ. Is there another link or am I just not looking at the right place?

Robert
 
Try clicking on the hybrid suspension link under the current specials section on the main page.



Brian T.
 
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