• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Crush Sleeve eliminators

Fergie

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Flagstaff, AZ
Okay, so in talking with Lincoln, he told me about crsuh sleeve eliminators that are used on Toyota axles.

There is limited info on the subject of shims vs. crush sleeves in the forums website, so I'd like to know if something like that is worth it for an 8.25" rear?

Also, are there any companies out there that make a crush sleeve eliminator for the 8.25" axle?

Thanks

Fergie
 
Beezil said:
yep.

there is nothing wrong with crush sleeves.
ha ha

now - Beezil - guess who i am?

:party::party::D:D:smootch::wave::wierd::laugh3::heart::sunshine::):flipoff::pig::bunny::chef::party::party:

interesting topic... im interested in the implications of a crush sleve eliminator as well...
 
Well, a shop owner/friend and some other experienced wheelers have claimed that over time the crush sleeve can give leaving you with a loose pinion. But, I have never seen this happen and had no problems with the crush sleeve in the 2 AMC 20s I've ran. I wouldn't bother with the eliminators.
 
The only disadvantage to a crush sleeve is that you can't as easily R&R the yoke without being very careful on how tight you re tighten the nut back up. If it is over tighten from specs it will change the setup on the gears. Shims eliminate this situation and lets you change pinion seals easier without worry of messing the crush sleeve.

hinkley
 
Mark Hinkley said:
The only disadvantage to a crush sleeve is that you can't as easily R&R the yoke without being very careful on how tight you re tighten the nut back up. If it is over tighten from specs it will change the setup on the gears. Shims eliminate this situation and lets you change pinion seals easier without worry of messing the crush sleeve.

hinkley

SPOBI!

Won't change the gear set up, but it will change the pinion bearing preload, which could lead to either a sloppy pinion (too loose) or an overheated pinion shaft (too tight).

CRASH
 
CRASH said:
SPOBI!

Won't change the gear set up, but it will change the pinion bearing preload, which could lead to either a sloppy pinion (too loose) or an overheated pinion shaft (too tight).

CRASH

I'm sorry, I forgot the pinion isn't part of the gears! :D


hinkley
 
Mark Hinkley said:
I'm sorry, I forgot the pinion isn't part of the gears! :D


hinkley

the only thing the crush sleve adjusts is the preload which can slightly adjust the depth of the gear but almost un-noticible. also in a trail fix you can reuse the crush and just make sure it's not loose with the low speads there will be limited damage to the bearings but shim's are nice.
 
bj-666 said:
the only thing the crush sleve adjusts is the preload which can slightly adjust the depth of the gear but almost un-noticible. also in a trail fix you can reuse the crush and just make sure it's not loose with the low speads there will be limited damage to the bearings but shim's are nice.

Heck you can reuse crush sleeves as well, just put a .010" shim behind the sleeve and recrush till you get the right preload!

CRASH
 
What most people refer to as "crush sleeve eliminators" are spacers and shims that allow you to set up the pinion depth and ballpark the bearing preload to speed preassembly without a crush sleeve. This is done so you do not shorten (crush) a new sleeve while trying to get the pinion depth right (very handy on a housing with no old pinion, or markings, for reference).

You assemble the pinion & bearings with the spacer and shims ("crush sleeve eliminator") check the pinion depth, and then pull it apart to swap the depth shims, and make the final assembly with a new crush sleeve.

The crush sleeve will flex and takeup changes in bearing wear and gear alignment, for quiter operation over a long service life. For the factory it eliminates assembly error of the bearing preload (you just torque the pinion nut properly and the crush sleeve sets the preload, even if the bearings spacing is not ideal).

You can run an axle with the sleeve and shims (with a "crush sleeve eliminator") but you need to be careful with the bearing pre-load (shim it properly, set it initially with a torque wrench, and then check it more often and possibly rebuild it more often).

A crush sleeve is only a problem if you have a heavy hand when changing the pinion seal or if you change gears often (the expense). If you only change gears once every few years there is not much advantage to abandoning the crush sleeve (and you may invite noise as the bearing wear).
 
The crush sleeve will flex and takeup changes in bearing wear and gear alignment, for quiter operation over a long service life. For the factory it eliminates assembly error of the bearing preload (you just torque the pinion nut properly and the crush sleeve sets the preload, even if the bearings spacing is not ideal).

WOW Did I just read this?

To anyone that searches and finds this thread.

The pinon nut torque means NOTHING when using a crush sleeve! NOTHING! You still need to check pinion bearing preload (rotational resistance) in lbs/in without a pinon seal installed.

THen when you have the manufacture spec reached, pull the pinion nut, install the seal, and then retighten the pinion nut to "very tight" (I know what is that) and then just a VERY slight bit more. If your using a eliminator your good and just set preload and then pull nut install sleeve and retighten pinion nut.
 
The crush sleeve will flex and takeup changes in bearing wear and gear alignment, for quiter operation over a long service life. For the factory it eliminates assembly error of the bearing preload (you just torque the pinion nut properly and the crush sleeve sets the preload, even if the bearings spacing is not ideal).

You can run an axle with the sleeve and shims (with a "crush sleeve eliminator") but you need to be careful with the bearing pre-load (shim it properly, set it initially with a torque wrench, and then check it more often and possibly rebuild it more often).

A crush sleeve is only a problem if you have a heavy hand when changing the pinion seal or if you change gears often (the expense). If you only change gears once every few years there is not much advantage to abandoning the crush sleeve (and you may invite noise as the bearing wear).

There's nothing wrong with using crush sleeve eliminators all the time if they are set-up right. There not going to reduce the life of your bearigs...many axles (including the D30) have them from the factory.
Another disadvantage of the cush sleeve is when alot of power is put through the pinion the sleeve can crush more and you'll end up with a loose pinion overtime and comprimising reliability.
 
When I set the pinion "pre-load" on my axles that i build that have crush sleeves I cut a "notch" in the end of the pinion shaft and the nut after I have it set to the proper pre-load. That way if i have to make a trail repair I simply just need to put the nut back to the same location to get it set properly.

Nothing wrong with crush sleeves
 
Back
Top