homebrew gone wild

crazyoffroader · Dec 30, 2004

this is not my axle, but this

is essentialy what I want to do.
I cannot for the life of me find a drivers drop d44 in my price range(~$150) so I was thinking about building one like the one in the pic out of an '80 ford d44 swingarm setup(free).
From what I gather, square tubing is no weaker than round tubing in this application, so is it feasible? Obviously Rob94XJ did it with some degree of success.
All input is apriciated.

WobblesXJ · Dec 30, 2004

You're a mad man! Looks neat to build your own axle.

Beezil · Dec 30, 2004

homebrew gone retarded....

there are more efficient and effective ways to accomplish the same thing without the project appearing as though each piece added is an aftertought.

"Form Follows Function" is only good when function follows "understanding".

crazyoffroader · Dec 30, 2004

Beezil said:
there are more efficient and effective ways to accomplish the same thing without the project appearing as though each piece added is an aftertought.

"Form Follows Function" is only good when function follows "understanding".

Please elaborate.
My intention is not just to build something that looks piece-mailed together, but also to perhaps build a stronger(read-not cast) D44 housing that might resemble a Toy axle in size and appearance, but have the gearing options of a D44(I realy need 4.30 (4.27)gears!).
I constantly see improvements on ye olde 44 housing, such as this HP44 as has been modified by BillR

But I still think redoing the entire axle would not be a bad idea.

P.S. sorry for having to borrow other people's pictures, but I was sure to give credit where credit is due.

OT · Dec 30, 2004

Don't be fooled.

Bill built that axle only because it looked better than the D30 that was in there.

Beezil · Dec 30, 2004

crazyoffroader said:
Please elaborate.
My intention is not just to build something that looks piece-mailed together

right, gotcha....

you can build a lot of strength ONTO an axle very SIMPLY without a bunch of unecessary grinding and welding, and piecing and welding, and throwing on more crap, and welding.......you get the point.

But before you begin......

what are you doing with this thing?

are you launching your stuff over dunes or pre-running?

an axle like a dana 44 is strong enough (housing wise) for MOST applications. I would not worry wasting time, resources or money needlessly trussing an axle that doesn't need trussing!

and if its some kind of "look" you are going for, I wouldn't use that first pic as an inspiration.

crazyoffroader · Dec 30, 2004

Beezil said:
you can build a lot of strength ONTO an axle very SIMPLY without a bunch of unecessary grinding and welding, and piecing and welding, and throwing on more crap, and welding.......you get the point.

Point got :dunce:.

what are you doing with this thing?

Normal trails for western washington, dirt, rocks, and lots of hills

are you launching your stuff over dunes or pre-running?

I plan on hill runs and mud mostly, with occasional rocks .

an axle like a dana 44 is strong enough (housing wise) for MOST applications.

the trouble is, at least in my mind, I know 2 guys that have bent/broken front 44's (one dodge locked, one ford open) and one guy that managed to grenade a front 60 :doh: on them thar hills, but I've never met anyone whose killed a toy, or 9" for that matter, just broken axles.

and if its some kind of "look" you are going for, I wouldn't use that first pic as an inspiration.

It's not the look, it's knowing what I've got underneath and what it will hold up to. Yea, the first pic looks kinda okey, but it's a start

Oh, and as for the why, I still can't find a ford or waggy d44 for under $350 in the area, plus if I build my own axle, I can spend that $150 I have on the correct gear ratio to match my Isuzu rear.

Thanks for all the help and food for thought.
Keep it coming.

BrettM · Dec 30, 2004

crazyoffroader said:
Please elaborate.
My intention is not just to build something that looks piece-mailed together, but also to perhaps build a stronger(read-not cast) D44 housing that might resemble a Toy axle in size and appearance, but have the gearing options of a D44(I realy need 4.30 (4.27)gears!).

why not use a Toy center-section? all you need is a jig to keep it all straight (which you would need for any custom housing) and weld on some D44 or 10 bolt tubes and knuckles, they wouldn't even have to be driver's drop, just swap sides. D44 shafts slide right into a Toy diff, and Toy diffs came in 4.30s. Easier to weld to also since it's a stamped steel housing, not cast.

for building that monstrosity you pictured, you still need to get shafts, knuckles, and outers to match. also, how are you planning on doing the axle seal with square tubes?

just go get a (free) Toy housing and any year Waggy D44 for shafts, tubes and outers. then spend lots of time building a good jig.

ChuckD · Dec 30, 2004

Okie Terry said:
Don't be fooled.

Bill built that axle only because it looked better than the D30 that was in there.

I resent that statement. That D30 was the best and prettiest ever made!

Ya know Terry you should really think before you post.

OT · Dec 30, 2004

ChuckD said:
I resent that statement. That D30 was the best and prettiest ever made!

Ya know Terry you should really think before you post.

Oops.

Forgot that 30 was your's first.

I retract.

crazyoffroader · Dec 30, 2004

BrettM said:
why not use a Toy center-section? all you need is a jig to keep it all straight (which you would need for any custom housing) and weld on some D44 or 10 bolt tubes and knuckles, they wouldn't even have to be driver's drop, just swap sides. D44 shafts slide right into a Toy diff, and Toy diffs came in 4.30s.

for building that monstrosity you pictured, you still need to get shafts, knuckles, and outers to match. also, how are you planning on doing the axle seal with square tubes?

just go get a (free) Toy housing and any year Waggy D44 for shafts, tubes and outers. then spend lots of time building a good jig.

I would take a toy axle any day, but I cant locate a 4.30 r&p for them, aftermarket or otherwise.
I have a chevy D44 lying around that I would use for pieces(tubes, shafts, knuckles, etc..) but I still would need to locate a toy axle, without shafts, and with the correct ratio in order to stay in my budget. If you Know where one is that I could buy and have shipped for a total of under $150, lemme know!

The monstrosity would not be very tough to build(jig aside) because the swingarm setup I have already works in it's entirety, and it's ALL square tubing and C channel from knuckle to knuckle, which is why I got the idea in the first place.
Thanks again.

old_man · Dec 30, 2004

Anything can be broken. D44's are no exception. You say that $$$ are an issue. The housing is the cheapest part of the whole cost. It's the "little" stuff that runs your cost up. I run stock D44 axles. I carry spares. I bought a 79 Bronco axle so I could keep the stock brakes and hubs and I am using the radius arm setup. Done right you can do a very capable axle for a reasonable amount. As soon as you go to change the alxes, knuckles, add high steer, mount your own brackets, the price has gone through the roof. It is not uncommon to drop $2000 on an axle, and that can be before you get a locker.

D70XJ · Dec 30, 2004

Not a 44 but here's what my front 60 looks like.
http://image32.webshots.com/32/7/55/9/239875509mNoifG_ph.jpg
http://image34.webshots.com/34/7/57/93/239875793iMldXj_ph.jpg
Plenty strong, and hopefully will stop my habitual problem of ripping control arm mounts off.

HTH

For some reason webshots is being stupid. Heres the link to the album.
http://client.webshots.com/album/221792485ZCPUCq

BrettM · Dec 30, 2004

4.30 thirds aren't hard to find, just look on some Toyota boards, here's some: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=314552

you should be able to get a center section for free if you're resourceful. I often see guys giving away the less desirable 55" rears from 79-85. It doesn't matter for you since all you need is the center part.

90KrawlerXJ · Dec 30, 2004

Here's a thought. Most axles are cheap. If you can't afford much of an axle, why don't you find the cheapest you can: IE 10 bolt GM. If you can't afford the axle and the spare parts you'll be dead in the water.

homebrew gone wild

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