Help! BB lift instal Horror!

I have no idea where to go from here.

I am in the process of installing a 2" Rusty's BB with AALs
I suceeded in installing the front spacers and Passenger's rear AAL

On the driver's side I have major problems, first, a small? problem. I tried to remove the shock, I heard plenty of horror stories about the upper mount bolts so I tried to remove the lower bolt. (worked ok on passenger's side) but as soon as I put any force on it, the nut sheared off. but the stud that goes back through the shock is frozen in there good. I can't get it out to move the shock. and have no idea what else I can do to get it out. (tried air hammer/chissel, BFH pry bar etc)

Anyways, I then tried to work at the leaf pack but when I got to the point of cutting off the center pin, I tapped the pin down to push it out the bottom. and the main leaf split right accross the middle! AAARRRRGH!

What do I do now?

Put a new main leaf in, put a stock spring pack from a junkyard in, sell the AAL's and buy whole new leaf packs, etc.

i agree with xj.

I guess that is the only thing to do.

I bet those spring bolts are going to be a ***** too. I'm not sure I can even manage to get them off. Even if I could I couldn't get a replacement at the wreckers, (too cold and too much snow). So it means if I can ever get the old stuff off, it'll still triple the cost of this budet boost... ouch...

i agree with xj.

BoostyKid said:

i agree with xj.

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echooooo............

ecchhhooooooooooooo..................


:laugh3:

First mistake was not soaking the bolts for 3 weeks prior to starting this project. You need to budget in at least a case of 'PowerBlaster'....
Anyone ever notice how the budget lifts end up costing more in time and aggravation then the full normal lift kits....the ones that come with NEW spring u bolts, shocks and hardware....
However, here's and 'Attaboy' for doing it in this weather...
I do feel for you, did a OME lift on a TJ the other nite, well, it took a mite longer than the 4 hours budgeted and some of the shock bolts broke but its all fixed now...despite having to work in the 40F weather and monsoon rain... One down, two to go...

If you can clean up the parts that you've already installed eally nice, call Rusty and see if he'll exchange them for a three inch lift kit. He has on occasion worked a couple of issues withme in a fair manner. Its worth a shot. I'm hoping this vehicle isn NOT your DD. Good luck.

Beached Bones said:

On the driver's side I have major problems, first, a small? problem. I tried to remove the shock, I heard plenty of horror stories about the upper mount bolts so I tried to remove the lower bolt. (worked ok on passenger's side) but as soon as I put any force on it, the nut sheared off. but the stud that goes back through the shock is frozen in there good. I can't get it out to move the shock. and have no idea what else I can do to get it out. (tried air hammer/chissel, BFH pry bar etc)

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Do you mean the axle mount stud? Because that is permanently attached to the axle mount and is not supposed to come out. That's probably why you are finding it "frozen". Once the nut is off, you just slide the shock off too. If the nut sheared off with the threads still inside it, you will need to cut that stud right off and drill it out before putting a new grade 8 bolt in there and welding it in place. Like Rich said, make sure you soak the hell out of everything with Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster before you try to remove it. Soak it several times over several days. Definitely soak the bolts on the upper mount before even trying them.

Beached Bones said:

Anyways, I then tried to work at the leaf pack but when I got to the point of cutting off the center pin, I tapped the pin down to push it out the bottom. and the main leaf split right accross the middle! AAARRRRGH! What do I do now?

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If your main leaf is actually broken, you will need to replace it. It might be a good time to replace the entire packs, but if cash is a problem, then you will at least need to remove that main leaf and replace it. I suggest soaking the leaf mount bolts in PB Blaster immediately before attempting to remove them. I also suggest replacing the ubolts. And you will of course need new center pins.
Good luck,
B.

Really amazing that I had so much rust on my jeep yet didn't break any bolts when doing my lift. Now having said that I'll break every one of them from now on.

Sucks man, I'd replace the main leaf and get some Dakota leaves.

Ultimate BB in my opinion - dakota leaves, RC front coils, YJ brake lines, Trooper rear shocks, YJ front shocks.

RichP said:

First mistake was not soaking the bolts for 3 weeks prior to starting this project. You need to budget in at least a case of 'PowerBlaster'....

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Nothing helps...I think they used pressed tinfoil for the bolts on jeeps. I've owned a couple old GMS and the bolts were MUCH tougher, I'll still use a couple of them to fix Chysler Crap

RichP} However said:

Still my Biggest problem is a broken main leaf....PB blaster supposed to fix that too???

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Beej said:

Do you mean the axle mount stud? Because that is permanently attached to the axle mount and is not supposed to come out. That's probably why you are finding it "frozen". Once the nut is off, you just slide the shock off too. If the nut sheared off with the threads still inside it, you will need to cut that stud right off and drill it out before putting a new grade 8 bolt in there and welding it in place. Like Rich said, make sure you soak the hell out of everything with Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster before you try to remove it. Soak it several times over several days. Definitely soak the bolts on the upper mount before even trying them.

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There was a stud on the passenger side, on the driver side there is nothing to unbolt on the side of the axel with the shock, just a dome cap., just seemed to pass through to a nut on the back side of the shock braket.

To another question... Yes daily driver.... gotta work on Wednessday.

Beached Bones said:

nothing to unbolt on the side of the axel with the shock, just a dome cap., just seemed to pass through to a nut on the back side of the shock braket.

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That sounds strange. I don't think that is stock, but I could be wrong, I'm not familiar with all years. The "dome cap" you describe sounds like what is usually on the backside of the lower shock bracket, with the stud protruding out the front through the shock bushing and fixed with a washer and nut. I just checked my jeep, my Haynes manual and my 2000 FSM and none have what you describe. If it were me, I think I would just cut it all off and put a new grade 8 bolt through it and torque it to spec (46 ftlbs) until you can get the bolt head welded to the back of the bracket. Others may have better ideas for you.
Again, good luck, sounds like you have a lot of work ahead of you.
B.

Well the shock bolt wasn't stock... some old repair I guess. I had to cut it off. I tried drilling it out but was too much (over an inch of 5/8 bolt to drill. I drilled out a thinner spot just above of the old bolt, slid a bolt through and welded it in place.

Now for the leaf pack, I picked up a new leaf pack which had 4 leaves, my old ones had 5. I swapped over the extra leaf to the new pack, and added the AAL. Total 6 leaves.

I cut the old main leaf off the jeep, cut open the front bushing, tore out the rubber, pried off the metal, too a BFH to themetal inside bushing, mangled it and got it off. I cut an access hole to the welded nut, and thuroughly soaked everything with a penetrating oil. I got the bushing bolts out without breaking anything, and pried/wedged and clamped my new spring into place.

Measurements before and after, hub center to fender flair were

before: front 19
rear: 18

After Front 20 1/2
rear: 20 1/4

At this point I was finally relieved....

then I drove it....

Now I'm getting some binding in the transfer case end of the rear drive shaft. It has already left a mark on the yoke after just a couple runs around the block trying to figure out where the new sound came from.

WHAT DO I DO NOW?????

Can I just grind some clearance into the yoke?