cylinder block heater

I'd like to install 220V electric heater which will warm up the engine before the start on winter mornings. Where can I get the heater, and where in the cylinder block should it be plugged?

You may want to check with any shop that supplies farm vehicles, utility vehicles, or something in that line.

There are usually two types of electric engine heater - the sort that heats the engine oil or that heats the coolant.

The engine oil heaters that I have seen usually adhere to the oil sump pan and are therefore easier to install. The idea behind this is sound - it helps get the oil flowing when you start your engine.

Most of the coolant heaters I have seen install in place of one of the "core plugs" that you will find on the side of your engine block, and will therefore require draining your coolant for installation. The upside of this is that the coolant is initially all through your engine, and convection will help spread the heat. Downside - it doesn't heat the engine oil - but this usually corrects itself fairly quickly, once the engine is started.

Either way, you will want to take care where the mains cord is routed. This is especially an issue with the coolant heater, since it is likely that you will pass the cord rather near to one or more exhaust tubes.

Most of the time I have seen block heaters installed, the cord has been run forward to the grille and the line plug left out the front. It is usually prudent to have some sort of cover - even if it is nothing more than a plastic bag and a rubber band, and you replace it each time. This is especially an issue if the roads are salted in Poland in the wintertime (the use of salt or sand varies in the US from state to state, but sand is gaining due to the fact that it does not encourage corrosion.)

Meanwhile, welcome aboard, feel free to ask if you have any other questions, and allow me to compliment you on your English.

5-90

Have not seen 220v except on the industrial applications. The block heater replaces a freeze plug, there is also one that goes inline with one of the coolant hoses, cut hose, insert, add two clamps. Then there is the dipstick heater that drops in the oil and overnite replaces the dipstick, girlfriend in Connecticut had one for her fiat, only way we could get it to start in the winter.
I have also seen ones that lay flat on the ground under the vehicle, they use radiant heat, you park over it, keeps the whole vechicle warm, military uses them for cold weather sites that require really fast responses.
If you can step the voltage down to 110V ac you can use one of these
http://www.jeepsareus.com/Merchant2...e=JAU&Product_Code=046&Category_Code=CHEROKEE
they also have a battery heater wrap too...

i dont recommend the magnetic heaters.... i tried a 200watt (yeah, wimpy, but the best i could find) on a 350 boat motor, and it didnt do SQUAT overnight in 50 degree weather

the best block heaters immerse in liquid, as mentioned above -either in the coolant (preferred) or oil

the type that installs in-line in a coolant hose will lead to drying out and cracking of the rubber hose over time (or so I've been told)

With you being in Poland you should be able to get an engine block heater that works on european voltages. You may have to find a Jeep dealer in Poland or a near by country to buy the heater.

For a period of time Renault was involved with AMC/Jeep. You might be able to get a engine block heater from a Renault dealter near by.

Hope that helps

My 98 Limited came with the factory block heater, which replaces one of freeze plugs. This is the first winter I have owned it. I'll have to give it a try and see how well it works. I'll let you all know.

this topic has been discussed a few times on here before......and the general idea i got from installing an OEM "freeze-plug replacement" block heater was that (if not installed properly?) it could pop out with the engine running, and obviously cause a lot of problems


ive seen tools called "freeze plug installers" and the like.......but is this really possible for it to just fall out??

this is really the only thing keeping me from installing one


does anybody know the wattage rating for the OEM block heater?

CaptTrev said:

this topic has been discussed a few times on here before......and the general idea i got from installing an OEM "freeze-plug replacement" block heater was that (if not installed properly?) it could pop out with the engine running, and obviously cause a lot of problems


ive seen tools called "freeze plug installers" and the like.......but is this really possible for it to just fall out??

this is really the only thing keeping me from installing one


does anybody know the wattage rating for the OEM block heater?

Click to expand...

For the 95 at least, it's 400 watts for the 2.5 and 600 for the 4.0. There's a little chapter in the FSM that isn't very descriptive of how it's initially installed, assuming it's already been put in. The core hole it uses appears to be the farthest forward in the driver's side of the block, under the manifolds. From the diagram it appears it uses a base or mounting that's pressed into the core hole, and then the heater itself is held into that base by a single bolt through the center.

I think some aftermarket heaters are made to expand into the hole with a rubber mount or something like that, and might not be as secure.

CaptTrev said:

this topic has been discussed a few times on here before......and the general idea i got from installing an OEM "freeze-plug replacement" block heater was that (if not installed properly?) it could pop out with the engine running, and obviously cause a lot of problems


ive seen tools called "freeze plug installers" and the like.......but is this really possible for it to just fall out??

this is really the only thing keeping me from installing one


does anybody know the wattage rating for the OEM block heater?

Click to expand...

Block heaters should generally be about 800 watts (I don't have specific OEM specs for XJS)

They are usually anchored by metal clips that expand in the block when you turn a screw, and seal with an O-ring. Block heaters are mandatory in new cars in Manitoba(every vehicle here has one), and rarely ever fail. They should probably be replaced every ten years or so cus the O-rings deteriorate and start leaking like any rubber. They only fall out if you don't tighten down the clips, or if you over tighten them and break the clips.

Yeah, I think all Jeeps sold here in Canada are equipped with the factory block heaters, I've never seen one without one. All 5 we've got have one, and we've never had any leakage issues. We've also never used them so I can't say how well they work.

I have a 97 with a factory block heater, does anybody know how many watts it is? I don't want to waste my boss's electricity for nothing.

Next question is how long before I start should I plug it in? I don't plan on using unless it is below 20 degrees. What do you guys think is a good temp to start using it?

I live in Northern Indiana, and for the most part, it really doesn't get SUPER cold, but I figure hey, the heater is there, might as well use.

Thanks for all your help!
Jason

I've always put them on a timer and turn them on about 2 hours before I am going to use it when it's 20F. If it's going to be below 10 I add an hour. Keep in mind you still have to warm it up when you do start tt, the oil is still pretty cold , one of the benfits of using synthetic is that it flows better in those kind of conditions but normal petro based is like thick syrup so don't run it too hard. If you have both heaters, block coolant and either magnetic or epoxyed on oil pan heaters then the warm up time of two hours is still there but you can run it like normal. At least thats the way I've always done it but then I'm a real slow poke driver for the first 20 min in the morning and evening all year.

Belfer,
try www.waeco.com .

If you can't find any usefull info on this site, you might wanna make a trip cross the border into Niemcy and check at "Auto Unger" or a "Bosch Dienst". Usually they have those in stock, or at least can get them. If need be they can also install'em.
As far as I remember, the pricetag runs about 100-150 euro's for parts.

Ohh, and welcome to the forum.

4Banger said:

Belfer,
try www.waeco.com .

If you can't find any usefull info on this site, you might wanna make a trip cross the border into Niemcy and check at "Auto Unger" or a "Bosch Dienst". Usually they have those in stock, or at least can get them. If need be they can also install'em.
As far as I remember, the pricetag runs about 100-150 euro's for parts.

Ohh, and welcome to the forum.

Click to expand...

Hmmm, wineclimatizers, maybe if we get a new commander...

Red97XJ said:

I have a 97 with a factory block heater, does anybody know how many watts it is? I don't want to waste my boss's electricity for nothing.

Next question is how long before I start should I plug it in? I don't plan on using unless it is below 20 degrees. What do you guys think is a good temp to start using it?

I live in Northern Indiana, and for the most part, it really doesn't get SUPER cold, but I figure hey, the heater is there, might as well use.

Thanks for all your help!
Jason

Click to expand...

You are supposed to leave it plugged in overnight.

RichP said:

If you have both heaters, block coolant and either magnetic or epoxyed on oil pan heaters then the warm up time of two hours is still there but you can run it like normal. At least thats the way I've always done it but then I'm a real slow poke driver for the first 20 min in the morning and evening all year.

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Even then you shouldn't just fire it up and drive like normal, because the transmission and gear lubes are frozen. The first 5 to 10 miles should be at slow speed and, more important, no hard acceleration.

It's surprising how long oil takes to warm up on a cold morning. Many years ago I had an oil temp gauge in my car. During Christmas break I was working a part-time job and used the highway to get there. From my house to the highway entrance is about 7 or 8 miles, and takes 10 minutes normall, but 15 to 20 minutes at commuter hour. The coolant temp would be up within 3 miles or so and I would have heat, but the engine oil temperature was only starting to get near the normal range when I hit the highway. Differential probably wasn't even close.

mine came with one, and i live in florida.

i took it off the other day and it looked like just a freezeplug with three prongs on it that the power cord hooked into. didn't really a good look at it.

RichP said:

Hmmm, wineclimatizers, maybe if we get a new commander...

Click to expand...

Sorry my bad.
Should've verified accuracy of the link.
Guess I wasn't paying enough attention.
After a quick search I came up with the right one.
http://www.defa.com/finn_dok_h.php3?merke=JEEP&modell=CHEROKEE&type=2&lang=3&ndid=
Didn't wanna confuse anyone.

I had a block heater in my 87 (rolled and gone to XJ heaven). The cables were rotting, so being lazy and cheap, I bought a rubberized heating pad (about pillow size). I draped it over the battery and the front top of the motor. Quick starts down to around about -20 C (about as cold as it ever gets around here).
I've also used a drop light in the same area, which also worked just fine. But was always afraid of melting something.
I aways keep the RPM's down for the first few miles.

8Mud said:

I had a block heater in my 87 (rolled and gone to XJ heaven). The cables were rotting, so being lazy and cheap, I bought a rubberized heating pad (about pillow size). I draped it over the battery and the front top of the motor. Quick starts down to around about -20 C (about as cold as it ever gets around here).
I've also used a drop light in the same area, which also worked just fine. But was always afraid of melting something.
I aways keep the RPM's down for the first few miles.

Click to expand...

An old GF's father had a diesel MB that he'd put to bed at nite, stick a trouble light in there under the hood and cover the nose of the car with a thick down comforter that he had put in betwen two sheets of plastic thick mill drop cloth stuff and sealed the edges on, it had weights in all 4 corners. Darn thing worked in the northern new jersey winters...