Rear Lockers

I was wanting to get a rear locker. But I have a few questions, I dont need it full time so the ARB air locker was looking pretty appealing, but expensive. If i got a full locker, would it hurt the drivetrain or would i be just fine??

There is soooooo much information on this topic if you search, but since I'm typing anyway... I threw a detroit in my 8.25 over the Thanksgiving holiday and I absolutely love it. I only notice it when getting on and off the gas while cruising down the road (makes a very, very slight thud) and if I'm turning right onto a paved road while the tires are still muddy from the trail, the right tire will spin a bit. I'm not a grandpa driver, but I'm not hard on it either if that makes any difference.

well i did a search after i posted which is stupid. I have a small fear about using the air locker. It seems that the air locker would have a failure point, which would be electrical and mechanical for the O2 compressor going out.

The only failure I have had with my ARB locker was my fault. I positioned my air tank in a bad spot and my blue air line was puntured because of it. Repositioned my tank and fixed the air line (easy) and no problems since.

I'm not trying to say an ARB is the best for everyone, but look at how many ARB lockers have been used throughout the world. They are well made and ARB has an excellent reputation. That wouldn't be so if they were prone for failure.

An ARB will be easier on your axle, because for daily driving it is 100% transparent - its the same as having an open differential. When locked, it is 100% locked. Automatic lockers like the detroit are constantly locking and unlocking as you drive. I'm not an expert on them but I would guess that they add some stress to the axle according to your driving style.

A detroit is cheaper because you don't need a compressor to run it.

But if you are planning on having an OBA (On Board Air) system, running air lines for the ARB is easy. Heres a write up on my OBA system if you are interested http://www.ericsxj.com/oba.htm

At what point does the Detroit lock and unlock? Would it unlocking be harder on the axles then a full locker? Or would the full time locker make more damage?

If I'm not mistaken, I believe an automatic locker like the detroit is locked all the time except for when turning and the locking/unlocking action isn't noticable at all on my Jeep so it can't be too bad on the driveline. The slight clunk felt when getting on and off the gas when cruising isn't unlocking/locking, but some sort of backlash type thing that Detroit says is necessary for the locker to work in reverse.

Yeah i think i may go with ARB and then a different pump and tank. The only other question I can think of, I was going through the ARB site, and I didnt see a fit for the 8.25 diff. Do they not have it or am I blind.

Oh off topic, I have a 3 inch lift, and I wanted to add an inch with spacers and shackles, i have a t-case drop once i raise it again will it basically cancel out my t-case drop to where i have the vibes again?

xjrrrdx said:

The only other question I can think of, I was going through the ARB site, and I didnt see a fit for the 8.25 diff. Do they not have it or am I blind.

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i'm guessing you're blind then cause they have one for the 8.25

FitchVA said:

i'm guessing you're blind then cause they have one for the 8.25

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I believe only for the late model 29-spline. If you've got the early model 27 spline you're screwed.

That is one thing I dont know how to check for is the spline. I have a 96 Classic if that helps at all.

One of my buddies at work wants me to install a leveling kit on his Tacoma. I mentioned a BB. He said he has heard that when you add extended shackles and spacers it is dangerous, and that it really kills the ride. Any truth to this?? I would think since all the suspension is the same except spacers and shackles, it wouldnt affect the ride.

karstic said:

I believe only for the late model 29-spline. If you've got the early model 27 spline you're screwed.

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No you're not. All you need is a set of 29 spline axle shafts to go with it.

And I think those started in mid 96 if not, 97 maby. Check back tomarrow night, I'm shure someone who knows will have replied by then.

The spline count was changed in mid 96 like Scooby says. Best bet is to pull a shaft and count. Its pretty easy with that axle. Pop the diff cover, remove the center pin and take out the c-clip. Then slide the shafts out. If you're carefull with the seals you probably don't even have to pull the tire off the axle shaft. Actually, if you're really good and have something to mark the splines you've counted, you might be able to count the splines while the shaft is still in the diff.

Israel said:

Actually, if you're really good and have something to mark the splines you've counted, you might be able to count the splines while the shaft is still in the diff.

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A Q-Tip and some Prussian Blue (or marking compound) should do the trick. Sometime in mid-96 is when the C8.25 went from 27 to 29 splines. New shafts and spiders will get you to 29 if you have the earlier axle though.

xjrrrdx said:

That is one thing I dont know how to check for is the spline. I have a 96 Classic if that helps at all.

One of my buddies at work wants me to install a leveling kit on his Tacoma. I mentioned a BB. He said he has heard that when you add extended shackles and spacers it is dangerous, and that it really kills the ride. Any truth to this?? I would think since all the suspension is the same except spacers and shackles, it wouldnt affect the ride.

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i'm bettin' on a 27 spline if its a 96