mystery nutserts

I was all ready to install my rear hitch when I discovered nutserts in the passenger side framrail. I don't have a gas tank skid, just the plastic shell. I do have the heat shield between the tailpipe and tank. The driver's side has none - the framerail is free & clear.

The bolts for the hitch are too big for the nutserts - do I use smaller bolts on that side (bad idea?) or drill out the holes?

Why would I have nutserts in that location?

(This is on a '99 Sport)

Go to the http://www.draw-tite.com/ and look up the instruction for an XJ hitch. They show all configurations. On later XJs all passenger side frames had the nut strip installed, it was used to attach the exhaust hanger. Someone figure out better to do that then to install the hanger like XJ has.

The draw-tite instructions will tell you to use a M12 bolt on the passenger side and use the carriage bolts provided on the driver's side. I purchased the gas tank skid plate for my 88 xj and it came with both nut strips. You have to pull off the rear bumper and bumper mounts to install the nut strip. When done you will have a much better clamp up vs the carriage bolt system.

Do not go do something stupid and retap the nutstrip already installed on your XJ.

The plates are installed on the drivers passenger side to hold the tailpipe mount. All the XJ's, 97+'s anyway, came that way, all you need is the matching one for the drivers side, about $17 or so from the dealer. Much stronger than using the hitch bolts thing that comes with the hitch. Also makes it easier if plan on gas tank skid plate. Just unmount the rear bumper, slide the plate in, mount the hitch and put the bumper back on.
A recommendation is to ALWAYS use plenty of copper colored Anti-seize on ANY outside bolts or nuts on a jeep. Makes life much easier down the road. The copper colored stuff seems to last longer than the silver. Just buy a big bottle with the built in brush....you'll find all kinds of uses for it...that and dielectric grease too....

Thanks for the info - no, I won't tap out the nutserts. The hardware for the hitch comes with square & rectangular steel plates. They're just like the nutserts, only not threaded. Why would the nutserts be any stronger?

ALSO: The carriage bolts drop down thru the above-mentioned plates. The nutserts are threaded - how the hell do I thread a bolt down from INSIDE the framerail?

thooogy said:

Thanks for the info - no, I won't tap out the nutserts. The hardware for the hitch comes with square & rectangular steel plates. They're just like the nutserts, only not threaded. Why would the nutserts be any stronger?

ALSO: The carriage bolts drop down thru the above-mentioned plates. The nutserts are threaded - how the hell do I thread a bolt down from INSIDE the framerail?

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You don't. The factory bolts are flange-headed bolts and they go up into the "frame" from below.

Where did you buy this hitch you plan on installing? It should of come with all the hardware and some instructions. With liability laws they need to provide you instructions so you can install the bolts with the right torque. Go back to where you purchased it and ask for the instructions, they need to provide them to you.

When you use the carriage bolt system you thread the bolts down through the frame rail and then install the nuts from below. The bolts hang out in the weather and the nuts will eventually rust in place. The plates used to hold the head of the carriage bolt fit in the frame and rotate until they wedge. The square washers do not connect to each other so the clamp up is not continuous. There is a risk you can pull the carriage bolt though if some of the bolts came loose. Remember the "frame" is only bent sheet metal, not 1/4 or 3/8 plate steel.

When you use the nut plate, don't call a nutserts that a totally different thing. With the nut plate you have a piece of steel on top, the frame and then the hitch. When loads are applied the nut plate, frame and hitch react the load as an assembly, with the carriage bolts you have localized bending. The factory installs the nutstrips when you get a hitch. The cost people at chrysler would of had them eliminated the nut strips and gone to the carriage bolt system IF it was as good and cost less.

Nutsert are similar to a pop rivet. You install it in a hole and use a pop rivet type tool to "pop" it into place. If you have a front skid plate or a transfer case skid plate they are used for the smaller bolts. The nutplate for this application is approx 1 inch wide and 12 inches long of 1/8 or 3/16 steel and has 5 nuts welded on it.

This hitch did come with hardware, and instructions (w/ torque specs) for Jeeps WITH and WITHOUT a factory installed gas tank skid. The instructions WITH indicate using the nut plate and 12 mm bolts (I called it a "nutsert" 'cause i didn't know there was a difference.) At any rate, my confusion lies with the fact that the WITHOUT instructions said to use the carriage bolts on both sides (for an older XJ, I assume) and made no mention of the nutplate.


SO now I see what's up - thanks again.

thooogy said:

This hitch did come with hardware, and instructions (w/ torque specs) for Jeeps WITH and WITHOUT a factory installed gas tank skid. The instructions WITH indicate using the nut plate and 12 mm bolts (I called it a "nutsert" 'cause i didn't know there was a difference.) At any rate, my confusion lies with the fact that the WITHOUT instructions said to use the carriage bolts on both sides (for an older XJ, I assume) and made no mention of the nutplate.
SO now I see what's up - thanks again.

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Go the extra distance and get the drivers side plate then use that....remember to soak your nuts too on the bumper with powerblaster or similar...

I agree with RichP, spend the $17, its much easier than trying to fish those damn bolts down through the frame with dirt and shit falling in your eyes.