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Brake booster vac line

I don't have a 96 handy, but unless there's something odd about yours, I'd look for the master cylinder reservoir, behind which is going to be the booster - big black canister. Coming out of the front of that (to the driver's side of the master cylinder, I think) should be a rather fat hose, which will lead directly to the intake manifold. If you're having trouble or suspect a leak, make sure you inspect the check valve, which is at the booster end of the hose, inserted into the booster.
 
Thanks! I'll go out and check and see if I can find the one you're describing.

No leaks, I just want to make sure I put the can of GM top end cleaner where it's supposed to go.
 
Do they tell you to disconnect the booster hose and dump it in through that? I've never used the GM stuff but I've used Marvel Mystery Oil and a couple of other top end cleaners. We always poured it down the carburetor. Dunno why you can't dump it into the throttle body -- unless it'll eat up one of the sensors. Does anybody know?
 
Eagle said:
Do they tell you to disconnect the booster hose and dump it in through that? I've never used the GM stuff but I've used Marvel Mystery Oil and a couple of other top end cleaners. We always poured it down the carburetor. Dunno why you can't dump it into the throttle body -- unless it'll eat up one of the sensors. Does anybody know?

Here's the directions I've got from http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/v...e_name=top_end_cleaner.php&dir=engine&print=1

iquid:

It is available at most GM dealerships. I called a local GM dealer it was $6.18 a can. Part # 1050002. It will take roughly 2.5 hours to do. You will need a short piece of silicone vacuum line (the smallest internal diameter) 4mm sound right? Then take the red *straw* off of a can of WD40. Use a 3" piece of that straw and shove it in the end of the vacuum hose. Make sure it is in real tight. Push it in the vacuum hose until about a 1/2" is sticking out. This is what you will use to draw the Top engine cleaner out of the can. With the engine running, remove the brake booster vacuum line. Once you take that plastic piece off, put a funnel in the end of it. Its best you figure out what funnel will fit that before you start all this. Put the end of the funnel on the hose, and then put the end of the silicone hose without the straw tip in the funnel. You will want to have opened the can of top engine cleaner to puncture the metal cap so when you are ready to begin, it is just a matter of unscrewing the cap. The idea here is to draw very slowly, with the plastic straw end. It will make the engine stall if you just submerge it, so just hold the end of the hose so it sucks small amounts of cleaner out. You will see what I mean about going slowly. Once you get down to about 1/3 of a can left take the hose setup and set it aside. Holding the funnel in one hand take the remaining top engine cleaner and dump it in the funnel. You will want to stall the engine out. So dump it fast. Then you can hook up the brake booster, and get it put back together. Let it sit for about 2 hours. Then start it up. It will be difficult to start. Then once it starts up, you will see lots of white smoke pour out the exhaust. So you may want to think of a place to do this, that you won't disturb any neighbors . It is a lot of smoke, you'll laugh once you do this. Get on the throttle a couple times and rev it to get the cleaner to burn out. The smoke should go away in about 5-10 minutes. That is about it. It is important that you do an oil change immediately. I usually don't drive much more than 10 miles after I do the top engine cleaner, before I do an oil change.



Sound about right?
 
90Pioneer said:
Here's the directions I've got from http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/v...e_name=top_end_cleaner.php&dir=engine&print=1

iquid:

It is available at most GM dealerships. I called a local GM dealer it was $6.18 a can. Part # 1050002. It will take roughly 2.5 hours to do. You will need a short piece of silicone vacuum line (the smallest internal diameter) 4mm sound right? Then take the red *straw* off of a can of WD40. Use a 3" piece of that straw and shove it in the end of the vacuum hose. Make sure it is in real tight. Push it in the vacuum hose until about a 1/2" is sticking out. This is what you will use to draw the Top engine cleaner out of the can. With the engine running, remove the brake booster vacuum line. Once you take that plastic piece off, put a funnel in the end of it. Its best you figure out what funnel will fit that before you start all this. Put the end of the funnel on the hose, and then put the end of the silicone hose without the straw tip in the funnel. You will want to have opened the can of top engine cleaner to puncture the metal cap so when you are ready to begin, it is just a matter of unscrewing the cap. The idea here is to draw very slowly, with the plastic straw end. It will make the engine stall if you just submerge it, so just hold the end of the hose so it sucks small amounts of cleaner out. You will see what I mean about going slowly. Once you get down to about 1/3 of a can left take the hose setup and set it aside. Holding the funnel in one hand take the remaining top engine cleaner and dump it in the funnel. You will want to stall the engine out. So dump it fast. Then you can hook up the brake booster, and get it put back together. Let it sit for about 2 hours. Then start it up. It will be difficult to start. Then once it starts up, you will see lots of white smoke pour out the exhaust. So you may want to think of a place to do this, that you won't disturb any neighbors . It is a lot of smoke, you'll laugh once you do this. Get on the throttle a couple times and rev it to get the cleaner to burn out. The smoke should go away in about 5-10 minutes. That is about it. It is important that you do an oil change immediately. I usually don't drive much more than 10 miles after I do the top engine cleaner, before I do an oil change.



Sound about right?


I suppose the booster hose method should work, but as I recall, that's not what it says on the can. They say just to do it through the throttle body, I think. In any case, there are directions there that worked for me. I used it on my Jeep, and it did a great job of reducing knock. The only problem I had was that I could not stall my Jeep with it. I just had to shut it down quickly for the second stage, because the engine management system just wouldn't let it stall.
 
On the can it says to pour into throttle body. I assume I would have to take the hose from the air box to the TB off, and pour it in that way?

Or is it better to suck it in via the brake booster vac line?

I'm doing this tomorrow so I need to know

Thanks!!!
 
As I said, I've always poured it into the carburetor. If it says on the can to pour it into the throttle body -- why not pour it into the throttle body?
 
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