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i got 2 questions

B

blackdogxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
In the bush (ya im a hick)
Ok heres question #1
Ive got a 97 cherokee 4.0 5-spd...and when i get on the highway, in 5th gear the jeep will like do a lil bucking here and there at about 65...then if i go faster the motor will start poping and will have no power what so ever...what would be the problem with that and how can i fix it?

Question #2
When i drive to school and from work...when i shut my jeep off it sounds like the gas is feeding back into the tank...what can i do to fix that??

Thanks
Brad
 
waxer said:
Whens the last time you changed your fuel filter?
Click to expand...
97 has a "lifetime" filter inside the tank. Only service is replacement when the fuel pump dies.

You have a 5-speed, so do some experimenting. Check your RPMs at 65 where/when the bucking starts. Then slow down, drop back into 4th gear, and run it up to the same RPM and observe whether or not you get the same bucking. Then try it in 3rd gear.

How old are the ignition wires and spark plugs? A weal spark will run the engine under light load but doesn't have enough to fire when the engine is working harder. Perhaps change your spark plugs, cap and rotor, and check or replace the ignition wires.
 
Eagle said:
97 has a "lifetime" filter inside the tank. Only service is replacement when the fuel pump dies.
Click to expand...


Good to know. So the filter is non replaceable (I don't like that idea). What happens when it starts to collect crap and sludge from the tank? If its not a spark related problem, I'd put my money on fuel delivery.

His 2nd question is a hint toward that direction.
 
blackdogxj said:
Ok heres question #1
Ive got a 97 cherokee 4.0 5-spd...and when i get on the highway, in 5th gear the jeep will like do a lil bucking here and there at about 65...then if i go faster the motor will start poping and will have no power what so ever...what would be the problem with that and how can i fix it?
Click to expand...
Do the RPM's jump or drop when that happens? I had something similar happen to me when my clutch was going and then shorty after it was replaced after the shop botched the job (the shop machined the flywheel instead of replacing it). Anyways if your RPM's go up when you start loosing power it will mean that your clutch is engaging and disengaging your tranny.

Question #2
When i drive to school and from work...when i shut my jeep off it sounds like the gas is feeding back into the tank...what can i do to fix that??
Click to expand...
do you have hard start problems? as in it won't catch the first time you're cranking but it will catch the second time around? if so.... well... you gotta replace the pump and that's a PITA
 
ya c, i cant really tell if it is dropping RPM's or not...because my gauges are them stupid idoit lights...i listen to the motor when it starts doing it, and it dont sound like it is dropping RPM's.
Thanks for the info guys, ill have to try it will new plugs wires cap and rotor...i was thinking of running Accel 8mm wires, Accel cap and rotor, and them Bosch platium plus 4 plugs.
Im also going to check my O2 senors...I know i had a problem with that when I had my bronco 2 (that dam thing drove me insane)


And no, i dont have any problems starting it.

Thanks again
Brad
 
Last edited:
blackdogxj said:
And no, i dont have any problems starting it.
Click to expand...
If you don't have problem starting it then you don't have a problem with fuel draining back to the tank. Depending on which year you got, you have a return line that might be making that noise.
 
I had a problem somewhat similar to yours when the MAP sensor went bad (not bad enough to light off a code, though). In particular, what it did was to start bucking and popping under very heavy acceleration or long hill climbs, as if starving for fuel. But the first thing I'd do is check the spark plugs and simple things like that. The XJ has an ignition system that will keep firing and starting long after the plugs are worn out.
 
Pretty much all the 97+ XJ's and TJ's 'gurgle' and sound like an upset stomach when the tank is full or near full. I also seem to remember seeing a TSB about that, it cost money to fix so I ignored it because it's just 'noise'.....
 
blackdogxj said:
ya c, i cant really tell if it is dropping RPM's or not...because my gauges are them stupid idoit lights...i listen to the motor when it starts doing it, and it dont sound like it is dropping RPM's.
Thanks for the info guys, ill have to try it will new plugs wires cap and rotor...i was thinking of running Accel 8mm wires, Accel cap and rotor, and them Bosch platium plus 4 plugs.
Im also going to check my O2 senors...I know i had a problem with that when I had my bronco 2 (that dam thing drove me insane)


And no, i dont have any problems starting it.

Thanks again
Brad
Click to expand...
You describe classing symptoms of bad spark plug wires.

a word of advice:
STAY AWAY FROM PLATINUM PLUGS!

use OEM champions or the champion truck plugs. You will be happier in the long run.

Don't waste your money on the accel wires either.. they wont last any longer than a medium priced set.
 
Digger87xj said:
a word of advice:
STAY AWAY FROM PLATINUM PLUGS!

use OEM champions or the champion truck plugs. You will be happier in the long run.

Don't waste your money on the accel wires either.. they wont last any longer than a medium priced set.
Click to expand...

That's not necessarily true. After rannng Bosch 4+ for a while I put in the champion truck plugs and the jeep didn't like them at all! IT iddled "funny" and felt weak. Also my MPG wasn't all that great. So I put in a new set of bosch4+ and all returned back to normal.

In regards to wires, the best ones to get is the Mopar High Performance from a dealership: they run about $35 to $45 from the dealer and are really nice (thicker gauge and also proper length)
 
Digger87xj said:
You describe classing symptoms of bad spark plug wires.

a word of advice:
STAY AWAY FROM PLATINUM PLUGS!

use OEM champions or the champion truck plugs. You will be happier in the long run.

Don't waste your money on the accel wires either.. they wont last any longer than a medium priced set.
Click to expand...


I've been running the exact setup he wants to go to in my 97 for a few weeks now. +4 plats, accel wires, cap and rotor... No complaints at all. I notice a little seat of the pants difference too. I previously ran the Champions with accel wires with no complaints, but wanted to see for myself if there was a difference.

As for the stutter, I would suspect the O2 sensor maybe. Mine went at about 70K miles with similar symptoms. No codes thrown?
 
If you just more or less got this I would do a complete bumper to bumper.
Plugs, cap, rotor, wires
Oil and filter
New thermostat and pressure cap
Coolant drain, flush and refill
All lubricants, tranny, transfer case and both diffs.
Get under there with a grease gun and grease it, pay particular attention to any stuck zerks and replace as needed. Pay really close attention to the ones on the upper ball joints, let me go for a while and you are going to be eating the cost of new ones. I jack my front end up off the ground and let the front end droop.
Pull the headlights and clean the connectors out with a burnishing tool, clean the spades on the lights, coat with some dielectric grease, the same stuff you use on the sparkplug wires at both ends. I would also check all the bulbs for signs of corrosion unless you want to be doing it at 5def in the snow...
Wash and wax it too...
 
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