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What do I need for 4.56 gears?

Double Down

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
I have a 97 with a d30 up front and 8.25 in the rear. I really don't feel like spend tons to get new axles right now, so humor me and tell me everything I need to get exactly to change my gearing.

And I am guessing that I have to do both at once? Meaning, if I drive my vehicle 85% of the time on the road and 15% offroad, do I only need to get the rear?

If you have any advice (except for swapping for different axles ;) let me know.

Thanks,

Chris (Double Down)
 
You only have to do both at once if you plan to put it in 4wd. I endured much of a summer with mixed gearing in mine until I got the front regeared. Unless you have 4.10s right now, you need a new carrier for the D30, along with the ring+pinions for both axles of course. I'd recommend new bearings and seals (master rebuild kit, I believe) but check with Rawbrown or Old_man to make sure.
 
I got mine from Rawbrown. Ordered on Tues. recieved them on Fri. Give him a call & let him know what you want to do. He will give you good advise. JIM.
 
You will also need a dial indicator, micrometer, a couple of prybars, and setup bearings.
You can do it with less, and I am sure some have.
I did my first R&Ps this summer.
Went pretty well with some phone support and borrowed tools.
Your 8.25 has no carrier break, so you just need R&P and master install kit.
For the 30, as was stated, you need R&P, master install kit, and larger carrier.
If you have the axle apart already, it only makes sense to replace all the seals and bearings.
Not too costly, and my goal was not to have to take them apart again for some time.
Also, it is far easier to do if you can 'bench' the axles and do the gears without laying under the rig.
HTH.
 
just to add to it, youll want a shop press instead of hammering the new bearings on. an inch pound torque wrench, a rubber mallet, brass or copper hammer, brass drift, big pipe wrench or high torque impact gun. And for the 8.25 you will need to make a tool for setting backlash. its nothing more than a length of bar or pipe with a 26mm nut welded on the end.
bgcntry72 said:
You will also need a dial indicator, micrometer, a couple of prybars, and setup bearings.
You can do it with less, and I am sure some have.
I did my first R&Ps this summer.
Went pretty well with some phone support and borrowed tools.
Your 8.25 has no carrier break, so you just need R&P and master install kit.
For the 30, as was stated, you need R&P, master install kit, and larger carrier.
If you have the axle apart already, it only makes sense to replace all the seals and bearings.
Not too costly, and my goal was not to have to take them apart again for some time.
Also, it is far easier to do if you can 'bench' the axles and do the gears without laying under the rig.
HTH.
 
Whats up Chris!
Well, I been thinking about this too- gas milage sucks. I figured it up and it is going to be more worth while to wait and save up to get some new axles- possibly with lower gears already in them anyway. But then again, I am one who doesn't like to do things twice. :) How's the rig?
Codeman
 
Hey bud,

Good, right now it's getting new bumpers and completely redoing all the lower quarter panels with steel since the guy before me kissed way too many rocks ;)

Yeah, I agree with you on the gears, I'm still deciding on what to do and why. The 8.25 is not a bad axle and neither is the d30 if you put in stronger alloy shafts, etc but I have been thinking about swapping to a 9.25 which is much stronger and you can get from a dakota ram, etc. But who knows, still learning all this stuff. Heck, I still just want to get out on a damn trail for once so I can actually use this thing I am spending money on ;)

Have you gone out at all lately?

Chris
 
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