Manually Shifting Front Axle Q’s

TORX · Nov 7, 2004

Ok I know this can be done but I need some help. I want to go in and manually move the shift collar so its permanetly locked in. But once I do that what do I do with the vacumn lines. Plug em back in or take em off ( lower harness ) Im not sure how the vacumn and t-case are related other than when the t-case is shifted vacumn applies to move the collar so inform me please if something else needs to be done. Also when I move the collar will it stay that way or is something needed to keep it locked in.

TORX

TORX · Nov 7, 2004

Also, am I going to want to switch the t-case to 4x4 before for after I manually do it in the axle?

TORX

Phil · Nov 7, 2004

I tried using vacuum pressure to keep it locked and it did not work. What has been working has been a washer up in the shift fork housing. We found a large enough washer to keep the fork all the way in the locked position, but small enough to fit in the housing. The washer is perpendicular to the shift fork, with one edge againt the fork and the opposite edge against the side of the housing. We ran a zip tie through the washer and around the bar that the shift fork slides on, so if the washer fell out of place, it wouldn't be hanging out in the axle tube.

I'd say have the case in 2wd while you're doing this, so you can rotate the intermediate shaft to line up with the outer shaft. My axle end vacuum lines are now gone. Maybe cap the lines up close to the body, on the t-case end?

BrettM · Nov 7, 2004

Phil Weeks said:
I tried using vacuum pressure to keep it locked and it did not work. What has been working has been a washer up in the shift fork housing. We found a large enough washer to keep the fork all the way in the locked position, but small enough to fit in the housing. The washer is perpendicular to the shift fork, with one edge againt the fork and the opposite edge against the side of the housing. We ran a zip tie through the washer and around the bar that the shift fork slides on, so if the washer fell out of place, it wouldn't be hanging out in the axle tube.

I'd say have the case in 2wd while you're doing this, so you can rotate the intermediate shaft to line up with the outer shaft. My axle end vacuum lines are now gone. Maybe cap the lines up close to the body, on the t-case end?

Phil, you aren't actually recommending that as a fix are you :laugh3: I guess it must still be holding? That has got to be one of the goofiest trail fixes ever, but hey, you did most of the Con like that and another time also, right?

For a more permanent solution, I would recommend wedging the shift collar in place with a small bolt, washer, or whatever will fit, then fill in the bottom inch or so full of JB Weld.

Phil · Nov 7, 2004

I can't argue with results.

It works for my HARDCORE 260 jointed disco 30. I did the rest of the Rubicon like that until I lost my driveshaft, then I ran the Rubicon again no problems.

For a more permanent solution, I'd recommend swapping to a non-disco shaft.

TORX · Nov 7, 2004

eventually im getting a posi lock but till then I just want my 4wd to work. Its not my DD so speeds wont be more than 30mph its got some other bugs to be worked so this will be temporary so no welding or JB welding for me
TORX

XJ_ranger · Nov 7, 2004

TORX said:
eventually im getting a posi lock but till then I just want my 4wd to work. Its not my DD so speeds wont be more than 30mph its got some other bugs to be worked so this will be temporary so no welding or JB welding for me
TORX

well, JB weld comes out of a squeeze tube, its not harder than brushing your teeth...

tchase · Nov 7, 2004

For mine I simply cut a piece of tubing of the appropriate diameter (3/4" or 1" I think) to fit betwween the fork and the side of the housing. Then cut a slot in the side of the tubing so it can slide over the shaft that the fork is on. Add a few wire ties to secure the tube and it's done. Very secure, and while I'm not really recommending it for street driving I will admit to using it all last winter with no problems.
Tony

TORX · Nov 7, 2004

XJ_ranger said:
well, JB weld comes out of a squeeze tube, its not harder than brushing your teeth...

Im talking about the removal of the welds or JB. Ive used JB before and once it dries its rock solid and I dont want to spend the time removing it

Also what to do with vacumn line????

TORX

TORX · Nov 7, 2004

well I went out and locked it in wedged a washer in there zip tied it and tested it out. Finally I have 4wd !!! But when I make a sharp turn the tires chirp I was on gravel but I dont know what that means I need a slicker surfurce or what but I do have 4wd wich is nice. I'll do some searching but if anyone can tell me the reason for that turning issue that'd be great

TORX

XJ_ranger · Nov 7, 2004

are you in 4x4 hi part time when you drive around the corner?

the T-case locks the front d-shaft and the rear d-shaft together when in part time 4x4 and the front end goes farther than the rear end in a turn, making the tires hop...

front spool would cause one wheel to jump...

anything like this going on?

TORX · Nov 8, 2004

it happens while in part time hi I got the 231 so no full time but i did some searching and know why it does that now thanks. Now I just need to find a permanent soulution POSI LOCK

TORX

Jeff in VA · Nov 8, 2004

I shimmed mine over locked with some washers. It took about 8 or 10 of them stacked up in between the shift fork and the shift motor housing. Pop off the c clips that hold the fork stationary (there's 3 of them total), slide the fork off the rod and add washers. You have to play around with it some to get the correct spacing you need. Put it all back together when you do (don't forget the clips) and reattach.
HTH,
Jeff

Manually Shifting Front Axle Q’s

TORX

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TORX

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Phil

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BrettM

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Phil

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TORX

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XJ_ranger

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tchase

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TORX

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TORX

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Jeff in VA

<---respect

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