D44 bearing install problems....HOT STUFF!

I replaced the outside wheelbearings/seals yesterday x2, went out for the test drive, got home and did a feel test. Hot wouldnt even cover it- dammmm hot. :exclamati
The drivers side, which was the problem to begin with, wasent smoldering-but was almost too hot to touch. mr rim was hot, but that axle shaft where the bearing sits was really hot!

When i reinstalled the axles, the chiltons manual calls for 30lbs torque on the plate that holds the bearing/seal/driveshaft in. When I took it apart, the bolts werent quite finger tight-, but just tight enough to hold it on (passenger side was real tight) probably in the order of 10 to 15 lbs torque. I took it all apart again- the bearing dosent look roasted, its the same good metal color without blueing-but seems loose,, the seal looks ok...so i re-greased ,since all the grease is gone, reinstall, and torque to 30 pounds again...and the wheel is almost too hard to turn by hand(I didnt check the first time-it was probably the same). backing off the torque to 15 pounds and it turns fine. Before all this happened, I can remember being able to jack the rearend up, an turn the wheels by my fingers.....
The wheel seal wont (dosent seem to) go far enough into the axle bore-its sitting out about a 16th or so- when I torque down the bolts to 30, the seal presses against the bearing at 30psi....the passenger side is the same, but it dosent seem to bother it in the least. It was cold to the touch after the testdrive. this cant be good....not good at all.

opinions?

also, for anyone thinking of doing this job- its extremely easy, the hardest part was getting the bearings on, and I had a shop do that-everything else was hands on simple tools.

How are the brakes? Dragging at all? If overtightened it could be reason for the extreme heat in that area.

no- I left them loose so I could adjust the parking brake and set the drum brakes up after I verified that the axles were good to go- all new drums,shoes & hardware. The drums were hot, but nowhere near as hot as the axles on the outside where the bearing sits. you coulda fried an egg on that spot. I cant remember the last time I even messed with the rear brakes on one of these xj/mjs- the shoes on there had over 100,000 on them- they just dont ever seem to wear out. But I do go through front pads....everything in the back works, it just dosent wear. I could have used the original drums- theyve never been turned, and only had a hair missing in the channel.

I went ahead an ordered a new bearing/collar/seal today- since its realitively easy to pull one and take it to town, I dont think I`ll bother trusting this one- it could very well be fried, and I know if it got that hot, the seal is probably hardened up.

If this is a rear XJ D44, the two shafts are slightly different widths. If you swap the sides, it puts a pretty high side load on the bearing and can cause excess heating.

old_man said:

If this is a rear XJ D44, the two shafts are slightly different widths. If you swap the sides, it puts a pretty high side load on the bearing and can cause excess heating.

Click to expand...

my thoughts exactly. the shafts are something like 1/4" different in length, so it's really easy to reinstall them on the wrong side. BTDT, but i didn't drive with it that way

you guys are friggin kiddin me- 2 different lengths on a center diff???? dam, they looked exactly the same height sitting on the floor...an nooooo, I didnt even bother to mark drivers/passenger side. DOOOHHHHH! why hasent anyone brought this up before.....why dosent my cheapo chiltons mention it....mannnnn.

I dont get it though- if the end of the shaft go`s into the diff and its open ended, then the only difference would be in the bearing seat area....

ahhhh, spit, now i gotta go takem both out an check.

unless your pullin my leg....

Theyr'e not pulling your leg....bet that is the prob.....another thing...sounds like you need to adjust those rear brakes so the fronts aren't doing all the work. My pedal had a lot travel and it did seem hard to stop......had to adjust rears, self adjusters weren't working(of course), made a big difference taking some of the work of the fronts, but not to the point where the rears would spin it out. good luck.

this is the part where I eat crow, and give thanks.

took out axles last night, measured- theres a half inch difference between sides (I hate designers who do these things)....checked both manuals, theres not a word in either on it-and Ive always praised chiltons over haynes...(I should have burned haynes years ago, but it makes a good reading -" take it to a qualified service tech" under every heading, followed by "beyond the scope of the home mechanic"-its like a bad comic with no ending)

Kudos and thank you`s all around- I bow to the axle masters. ya`ll know your stuff.

on the brake issue- Ive had XJs in the past and this MJ now- all were the same in the rear brake area. They just dont seem to wear- the brakeing is easily adaquate, but I think the setup is 70/30 front to rear. With the MJ, I put on replacement one ton springs so it raised the rear up, but I never readjusted the rear brake proportioner arm- none ever nose diveed under brakeing, but I cant ever remember any locking up the rears either. Ive also never had anything turned, although I did replace one front rotor back in the 80`s because it had a crack- that one was an 89 with extra high miles and almost no brakes when I drove it off the lot. I think they were happy to see it go....
At any rate, since I have complete new hardware in there, they get adjusted to specs- will see what happens. I`ll not cross fingers though- these vehicles never were known for brakeing power....maybe I`ll brake down an do a duel diaphram setup one day.

thanks again guys.
Ed->