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Alloy vs. Steel - Weight Difference

X

XJJazz

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
First of all, thank you all for your postings. I have learned a ton from you all learning as I build my XJ. I bought my 01 XJ in March and now I have installed a 3" BDS, JKS Discos and 31" Pro Comp All-Terrains to get me started along with misc stuff like a reviever hitch and tow hooks, etc.

For my question, are alloy wheels really that much lighter than steel? I have the basic grey steel wheels, which I don't mind, but if I went to a Canyon rim or other alloy wheel, will I notice a big handling / ride difference becasue of the lighter wheel? Also, I can only afford another 1/2" or so of backspacing before I start hitting my rear fenders pretty bad, so I prefer to keep it close to 4.75" - 5.25", which, as I have read, rules many other wheels out.

Thanks for your help.
 
XJJazz said:
First of all, thank you all for your postings. I have learned a ton from you all learning as I build my XJ. I bought my 01 XJ in March and now I have installed a 3" BDS, JKS Discos and 31" Pro Comp All-Terrains to get me started along with misc stuff like a reviever hitch and tow hooks, etc.

For my question, are alloy wheels really that much lighter than steel? I have the basic grey steel wheels, which I don't mind, but if I went to a Canyon rim or other alloy wheel, will I notice a big handling / ride difference becasue of the lighter wheel? Also, I can only afford another 1/2" or so of backspacing before I start hitting my rear fenders pretty bad, so I prefer to keep it close to 4.75" - 5.25", which, as I have read, rules many other wheels out.

Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

alloys are lighter than steel, yes. For offroading your much more likely to bust one up. Get some steel rockcrawlers they're not too expensive. Usually you can buy 3 steel for the cost of a replacement alloy.
 
Just about everyone I wheel with runs alloy wheels and I've never seen one "bust up". I have seen those cheapo rockcrawler steel wheels bend countless times, some leaking air requiring the use of a BFH to straighten them, and I've seen other ones need replacement because the centers are so bent out of shape.
 
There are advantages to both. Aloy wheels hold up very well to most abuse, and are very ulikely to get bent. But if they do, you usually have to replace them. Steel wheels can get easily bent but you can get them straitened easily.

Forged wheels are what you want if money is no issue and you want the best of all worlds and high load ratings.

I have had both and have been happy with both.

Michael
 
"steel bends aluminum cracks" is some of the biggest bullshit methodology in the jeep world.

I challenge anyone citing anything remotely similar to this ignorant mindset to come up with just one situation where an aluminum wheel suffered an offroad trauma where a steel wheel would have survived....

just one.
 
Out of curiosity, does anyone know offhand how much the stock steel wheel weighs?
 
Beezil said:
"steel bends aluminum cracks" is some of the biggest bullshit methodology in the jeep world.

I challenge anyone citing anything remotely similar to this ignorant mindset to come up with just one situation where an aluminum wheel suffered an offroad trauma where a steel wheel would have survived....

just one.
Click to expand...
Agree, but if the aluminium wheel cracks you have to replace it where you can bend a steel wheel back into shape with a BFH. That's the only advantage of a steel wheel i see.
 
What about the handling differences, will the lighter wheel ride better. Like XJFREK asked, does anybody know the weight, I think the alloys range between 20-25 lbs. unless a Canyon is heavier than nornal.

I haven't wheeled hard enough for now to break or bend a wheel, but I am still new to this so who knows.
 
XJoachim said:
Agree, but if the aluminium wheel cracks you have to replace it where you can bend a steel wheel back into shape with a BFH. That's the only advantage of a steel wheel i see.
Click to expand...

once again.....

prove that the "what if" EVER comes into play....

beating a bent steel rim back into shape?

now THAT is true barkeater.
 
Beezil said:
once again.....

prove that the "what if" EVER comes into play....

beating a bent steel rim back into shape?

now THAT is true barkeater.
Click to expand...

I have beat steel rims back into good enough shape to hold air. I've also welded and ground down cracks in the rim around the bead area. I buy steel cause they're cheap and would have purdy aluminum wheels if my budget allowed. I agree with you, the "what if" is too rare to be of any concern.

please pass the bark, It's almost lunch time.
 
I personally have never broken or significantly bent either. I have seen two aluminum wheels broken on the trail though (both just broke off parts of the outer lips from hitting rocks) both occured pinching the wheels between rocks with low tire pressure. Both of them continued to hold air but both were replaced later because it was too expensive to have them welded (fixed).

I have seen numerouse steel wheels bend lips instead of breaking them (and in the cases I have been aware of they have not held air that well or have needed to be re-seated).

To be honest, I personally think that Aluminum wheels hold up very well for a DD and trail rig. But if I wheeled a lot in the rocks I would be more likely to go with the steel wheel (and replace them when they are significantly damaged).

does this one instance count?

Michael
 
XJJazz, I've done alot of searching on the net, and I still can't find the weight of the factory steel wheel. I do know that the 15x8 Mickey Thompson Classic 2 wheels are 17 lbs, and the Eagle Alloy series 58 is 22 lbs. Most wheel manufacturers don't list the weights of their products. If I had to guess I'd say the OEM's are somwhere between 30-40 lbs., unfortunately I don't have the means to weigh one.
 
Thanks man. I am going to try to switch wheels for a couple of days with my friends TJ which has the Eagle Alloys on it and see if I can tell a big difference. I'll see if I can weigh my steel rims while they are off, that should tell us the weight diff.

I did find out by messing with his rims is that I need to stick with the 15x7 in the Eagle's with the 4" backspacing, any more that that and I will rub my rear fender pretty bad.
 
my AR-767's weigh about 26lbs each. 15x8 steel
I doubt the factory steel wheels would weigh as much.
 
Thats pretty interesting. If that is the case, then there is only a few pounds at most difference between the steel and say an eagle 058. Thanks.
 
Most aluminum wheels I have had experience with are just as heavy, or close to a steel wheel. Steel wheels are only about 1/8" thick, and aluminums are much thicker, so I think it negates the weight difference. Unless you buy something like Weld Draglites, or something similar, where the sole purpose is light weight, not bling factor.


My step-son bent one of my aluminum wheels (hit a rock at about 50mph at 5psi.) I broke it when I used the BFH on it. Needless to say, he bought me a new wheel.

Dan
 
I'm running steelies on my DD. No compaints except we did bend one when my wife bounced it off the K-rail comin back from Santa Cruz one night. That was fun! Gotta look out for the hub caps too.
 
This type of arguement could go on almost as long as the standard vs. auto arguement.

IMO, the biggest difference between the two is the price.

In general, alloy wheels are a little lighter than steel, but not by too too much. You need more alloy to get a strong wheel.

Alloy wheels tend to be easier to balance also. They are easier to make balanced from the factory, due to the way they are made, and their distribution of mass is more even than a steel wheel.
 
XJFREK said:
XJJazz, I've done alot of searching on the net, and I still can't find the weight of the factory steel wheel.
Click to expand...

I weighed my steel wheel when I took it off today. 65 pounds total, I looked up my Pro Comp 31's online and they weigh 40lbs. So my stock steel wheels weigh 25 lbs. Not too much more than the alloys like we thought. Good to know anyway.
 
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