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Jeep MJ 4.0L Help

z_green2005

NAXJA Forum User
Location
IL
Hi all, I'm new to this site. I have a 1989 Jeep comanche MJ with a 4.0L and an automatic tranny. It came from the factory w/ the 5 spd but i converted it to the automatic. I am having issues with it idling rough below 210 degrees and sometimes stalling. Now for the really wierd part...In reverse gear the engine runs fine untill i give it about half throttle then it spudders and losses power. It does not get better if I apply more throttle. Does anyone have any ideas please???

Zach

PS
You guys have an awesome site here!!!
 
Dont know whats wrong, but why did you convert to the auto? Which kind of auto? The aw4 from an mj, xj or something else?
 
Basic questions:

How many miles on the engine?
Have you done a tune-up recently?
How old are the spark plug wires? What kind of condition are they in?
Have the injectors ever been replaced or cleaned?
Have you cleaned the throttle body? How recently?
When was the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) last replaced?
When was the O2 (oxygen) sensor last replaced?
Has the distributor, or the camshaft position sensor inside the distributor, ever been replaced?
 
I converted the tranny over because...the 5spd went out and I had a XJ w/ an AX5 auto w/ wiring harness and computer and all. The truck has 187000 miles, has recently hada tune-up, plugs, wires, cap, etc. I have not changed the injectors. I really am starting to think it is a vaccum problem or a sensor like a CPS or something like that. I have had these problems for awhile but they are not getting better or worse. It's just annoying. It also takes about 5 cranks to start. Now I know thats not normal.
 
When I converted the tranny I had to change the whole wiring harness and computer. I did not change the TPS. Might be a good start??? I'll wait till tommorrow to check my vaccum lines and such.
 
I know...it's late at night and i have no business being on a computer right now.. LOL

Me neither. When I first saw your post correcting yourself, I was thinkin "now why did I say the same thing he just said", :banghead: and then I realized that wasn't there before I started typing..........thought I was going crazy. :looney:
 
z_green2005 said:
It also takes about 5 cranks to start. Now I know thats not normal.
Certainly isn't normal. Normal is more like 10 cranks.
 
Vacuum lines is a good place to start. I would also check the CCV system (carnkcase ventilation), and I'd suggest buying 4 bottles of fuel system/injector cleaner. Fill the tank, dump in two bottles, run out the tank, refill and dump in the other two bottles. This might be enough to do a quick clean on the injectors and the critical passages on the throttle body.
 
Eagle said:
Certainly isn't normal. Normal is more like 10 cranks.

My '87 MJ 4.0 w/ over 200k miles starts faster than that, and it only gets run once or twice a month!
 
A couple things...

1) It is fairly normal for Renix 4.0s (1987-1990) to crank for a bit before kicking over. The ECM is programmed to not send signals until the CPS reads at least 300rpm - that's directly from the Renix FI manual. It's supposed to help with internal oiling (and seems to!) - but there's nothing to be done, so you might as well get used to it.

2) Could you be a bit more specific about "idling over 210*" I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about there, so I'll not address it until I hear more. Normal operating temperature for the 4.0 is supposed to be up around 210* - which doesn't mean that we have to like it, and a little work can reduce that to about 190* without impacting tailpipe emissions, durability, or fuel mileage.

3) Did you move ALL the donor electronics when you did the tranny swap? I'd have to see what else (if anything,) but I know that the TPS is different between the manual and automatic transmission up to 1990, as well as the ECM (and, of course, there is also the need for a TCU for the AT - not required for the MT.) I ask in the interest of being thorough - I'd like to assume you got everything, but the only dumb question is the one not asked. On the flipside of that - what did you do with the clutch pedal/master hydraulic setup? Just interested - it would save me looking for one on my own conversion later....

5-90
 
It idles fine it just runs like crap when the temp. is below 210. Sometimes I will pull up to a stop sign and it will die. I did not change the TPS when i did the tranny swap. Sorry, I already sold the hydraulic setup a long time ago. Could the CPS be an issue too???
 
Hey thanx for that link, I think i got it narrowed down to the TPS believe it or not. I checked the vaccum lines today and they all seem okay. About how much does a TPS cost??

Thanks again,
Zach
 
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