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Need blueprints for fixed SYE flange.

I only ask because I'm curious:

why wouldn't you just buy one?
 
Okie Terry said:
I'm bored.
Click to expand...

I've got a couple of Jeep projects you could work on for me. I wish I could say I was bored!
 
Is this the Okie that was bragging about running a slipyoke with 8" of lift? :looney:
 
I’ve got an RE SYE flange thing I could reverse engineer and draw it up for you in about any CAD format you need, or just as a PDF. How do you plan to do the internal splines? That would be the hard part for most folks. I’ve got an NC milling center and a lathe and I don’t have the tools to do it.
 
XJEEPER said:
Is this the Okie that was bragging about running a slipyoke with 8" of lift? :looney:
Click to expand...
What can I say, If it works at 7" it works. Don't ask me why there were no adverse effects with a slip yoke. But since its all apart, I might as well change over, I've got the DS.


Bronco said:
How do you plan to do the internal splines?
Click to expand...
This is the million dollar question. I'm not that good yet. I guess this idea will have to sit back till I get that problem worked out.

Thanks for the replies, guys.
 
Okie Terry said:
I've got the DS.
Click to expand...
Then you have everything you need. Just machine the flange to match the four bolt holes and pilot on the new DS. I believe the bolts are 7/16 NF. The spline info you can get from your old slip yoke. I imagine you can even cut apart the old slip yoke and weld the new flange to it to avoid having to broach new splines. (I have the utmost confidence in your welding)
In the center of the flange drill a 7/16 through hole to match the 3/8 NC hole you'll have to drill/tap in the TC shaft.
 
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kid4lyf said:
Then you have everything you need. Just machine the flange to match the four bolt holes and pilot on the new DS. I believe the bolts are 7/16 NF. The spline info you can get from your old slip yoke. I imagine you can even cut apart the old slip yoke and weld the new flange to it to avoid having to broach new splines. (I have the utmost confidence in your welding)
In the center of the flange drill a 7/16 through hole to match the 3/8 NC hole you'll have to drill/tap in the TC shaft.
Click to expand...
That's a great idea Brad and thanks for the vote of confidence. Who needs RE's measurements anyway.

If all else fails, I guess I can learn to use the mill a little better to take care of the spline issue.
 
I think if you took a stock slip yoke, cut off the yoke part and just used the splined tube portion with a press fit into the center hole of the flange and then welded the assembly, you'd be pretty good for taking care of any potential eccentricity or runout problems.
 
Lawn Cher' said:
I think if you took a stock slip yoke, cut off the yoke part and just used the splined tube portion with a press fit into the center hole of the flange and then welded the assembly, you'd be pretty good for taking care of any potential eccentricity or runout problems.
Click to expand...
That will be my first angle of attack.

Now the issue of a good seal flange. Will a late model 231 seal flange fit a 242?
 
Okie Terry said:
That's a great idea Brad and thanks for the vote of confidence. Who needs RE's measurements anyway.

If all else fails, I guess I can learn to use the mill a little better to take care of the spline issue.
Click to expand...
Confidence well earned. The axle U joint caps you welded up in Moab are the only ones that didn't crack (including mine).
Your old yoke should be a forging rather than a casting so it should weld fine if pre-heated.
As for the splines. If the "reusing your old yoke" idea doesn't work you might look for a machine shop that does gear work. They probably have a broach for most standard splines. Broaching these would be the way to go.
 
Okie Terry said:
That will be my first angle of attack.

Now the issue of a good seal flange. Will a late model 231 seal flange fit a 242?
Click to expand...
The late models don't need a seal flange. The shaft is already sealed. RE shows the hack-n-tap for pre '96 fitting both 231 and 242. You can probably buy just the seal from them.
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynamic/mainpage.asp?folderid=208

edit: Oh yea, I forgot you replaced your TC. Did you get a late model one? If so, you don't need the seal. Make the splined flange and you're good to go.
 
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Any machine shop with a wire EDM could also cut those splines. This will be more expensive than a broach (as long as the shop already has the broach), but would be a good alternative if a broach is unavailable. The shop should be able to design the matching spline if you gave them the output shaft or you could do it if you have a machinery handbook.

hth
 
What year NP231 are you looking at making it fit? For the $45 it costs to buy a flange, I wouldn't mess with machining one. The blank would most likely cost you that much if your not carefull. Using a slip yoke has a serious drawback. Slipyokes are broached with enough clearance to allow them to slip easily. They have too much clearance to make a good flange that has to be bolted. If you are doing an early NP231, check out my writeup on the cheap SYE

http://www.4x4getaways.com/oldmansye.htm

I can get you the specs if needed on the flange. The basics are a 27 involute spline with 1.187 ID, a 2" OD, and has a 4 on 3.5" bolt circle.

The splines can't easily be done on a mill. It takes a special broaching setup and it is a pain if you are not familiar with doing it. A buddy has offered to loan me a NP242 to look at to see if there is an easy way to do a SYE on it. I hope to find out within a week or two.
 
I think the Dana 35 pinion yoke is the same as the TC output as well. 27spline IIRC? Then the seal housing would just have to be machined to accept a D35 pinion seal. Viola...

By the way, I love this way of thinking...lets build something instead of buying it. :cheers:
 
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