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Powertrax springs?

9

90 xj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
stl mo
Is it possible for the springs in a powertrax locker to go bad? I went wheelin this weekend and noticed that racheting noise when it was IN 4 wheel drive when i would turn the wheels(with the wheels turning at a pretty good speed). So today i pulled the diff cover and did the same thing, i put it up on 4 jack stands, then put it in 4 high and had someone turn the wheels back and forth. Sure enough it would seperate. Could it have something to do with the t-case or drive shaft it almost seemed like the t case was binding to make it do that? Any advise would be helpful.
Jake
btw 90 4.0, re 3.5, 31 10.50s
 
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put it on jackstands, let it idle in first (wheels spinning) and see if you can grab one wheel and make is stop. If the diff is acting open it will let one stop and the other will keep going, if it's locking it won't let you stop either wheel. when the driveshaft isn't sending any power to the diff an auto locker is supposed to unlock and allow it to ratchet.
 
I guess you diddnt get what i did, i alredy did exactly what you just told me. the only time it would do it was when i would turn the wheels left or right. thats why i thought it might be the springs or maybe the t-case
jake
 
from what I remeber reading, it should dissengage when turning w/ no input from the pinion (no gas), but once the crosshaft spins (gas is applied) it should lock back up again even if in a turn. Thats what I understood if correct....

-Red
 
so i guess none of you have any ideas? i looked at it some more and i think it might be the t- case or the driveshaft because the locker is doing what it is supposed to do. do you think the enternals of my t case are bad? it is a 242
has any one else had this problem?
jake
 
it should stay together when on jack stands there should be no disengaging. yes the springs can go bad, typically the springs that float the cross pin will break in half. a new set should be aroud $12 plus shipping. buy 2 and keep an extra set in your toolbox. the quickest source would be Randy's ring and pinion.
90 xj said:
Is it possible for the springs in a powertrax locker to go bad? I went wheelin this weekend and noticed that racheting noise when it was IN 4 wheel drive when i would turn the wheels(with the wheels turning at a pretty good speed). So today i pulled the diff cover and did the same thing, i put it up on 4 jack stands, then put it in 4 high and had someone turn the wheels back and forth. Sure enough it would seperate. Could it have something to do with the t-case or drive shaft it almost seemed like the t case was binding to make it do that? Any advise would be helpful.
Jake
btw 90 4.0, re 3.5, 31 10.50s
Click to expand...
 
What I've usually seen are the corners rounded of the engagement teeth of the lockrite. Are there any metel slivers about a 1/4 inch long floating around in the diff/lube?
 
When Powertrax first came out with the No-Slip I bought one. I never could get it to do what the manuel says about jacking it up and turning the wheels. I sent it back and they tested it and said it was okay. I couldn't keep springs in it and finally gave up on it. They aren't called Powertrash for nothing. It's too bad as when it worked it was great.
It's most likely NOT your t-case.
 
I ran a no-slip for 4 years in my 8.25 rear on 31" tires. what do you mean that you couldn't keep the springs in? having the corners round a little on the engagment teeth is not a big deal. like i said, the springs that float the crosspin can break. I have allways suggested rebuilding your no-slip once a year with new springs. powertrash is a new one, I have been able to compare it to a detroit locker and I have found the no-slip to be better behaved.
when checking to see if the no-slip works thru the suggested method, it can take some effort, especially if you greased the engagment teeth.
I have installed better than a dozen no-slips and have found it to be the easiest to install.
 
might be your chain on in the t-case? Try putting two springs together in the locker. Not top to bottom, but wind them together. I did that in my CJ and made a total difference and no more slipping when it wasn't suppose to.
 
when i drained the diff fluid i did not see any shavings, the doubleing the springs up that sounds like a good idea but will it cause any more wear and tear? and the thing about the tcase it seemed like the was a very harsh vibration coming from it, if it wasnt from the t case what do you think it would be caused from? i dont think that it would have been the tires they wernt spinning fast enough. thanks for the suggestions.
jake
 
doubling of springs? is'nt that what your supposed to do Ryan? When i did mine, i purchased the spring kit from Randy's r/p and it came with 2 sets of springs. One goes on the inside and one goes on the outside {so there sleeved}


-Red
 
dandecicco said:
I thought the second set were extra springs for when the first set go out . . . maybe if directions were better . . . I actually changed to springs that were for a D60. bit bigger.
Click to expand...

LOL, nah the inner spring sleeves inside the outer spring then combined, they go into the locker. that would explain why you went with stiffer springs.

here s a link you can check out..

http://www.dpgoffroad.com/tech/lockright3.htm

look at # 7



-Red
 
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OK you guys are talking between a few different animals here.
some of you are thinking lockright and others are thinking no-slip.
lockrights use 4 springs, no-slips use 12 springs.
on the LR the spring are installed behind the pins that keep the unit aligned.

on the no-slip, 8 springs are used to float the crosspin inside the inner gears. the other 4 are 2 different sizes that are paired up. a smaller spring fits inside the larger spring and they go between the two halves of the unit.
on the no-0slip, the 8 springs that float the crosspin tend to break. these ones need to be replaced on occasion.
 
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