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welded bolt in swaybar link

kubtastic

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tacoma, WA
I bet this is a common problem: I can remove the swaybar links and even the swaybar, but one of the bolts is just welded to the bracket from the axle, so that there's about 2in of machine screw just sticking out. This screw has a torx(spelling?) head on the street side. What do i do about this screw just asking to grab something?
 
It is pressed in,not threaded in!Some heat and a c-clamp usually do the job!
 
Torch it till it gets red, than hammer the crap out of it with a hammer it will pop right out... Just takes a little.
 
RCP Phx said:
It is pressed in,not threaded in!Some heat and a c-clamp usually do the job!

he's right i just did mine to put some jks's in and mine were pressed in some however are threaded a buddy of mine just had to unscrew his if they are pressed in heat the bitch till it's glowin red and give it a few pops with a hammer it'll come right out (i hit mine soo hard when it was cold that i was bending the bracket with heat it tapped it twice and it was all the way out)
 
one thing i noticed when i did this to my 87 and 99 XJs.. the older axle has cast arms and the newer one has stamped steel arms.. the cast ones took a good beating, but the stamped ones were bending over prety bad as indicated before... i never thought of cutting and pressing them out, good write-up..
 
GottaBeJeep said:
Give this a shot. A lot less effort than pounding it out with a hammer, plus you don't bend the swaybar axle mount out of shape:
http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/swaybar_endlinks.htm

This is much better than torch.

I use a air hammer and they come right out. Leave nut on two or three threads and use pointed tool in hole. Keeps the bolt from flying across the shop and through the wall. :D

Also can be done with on socket and large c clamp.

Don't like the torch idea at all as I think more of it, waste of energy! :D

hinkley
 
My vote absolutely goes for the gear puller method! I tried every other method on that f***kin falsey torx "bolt" with no success. I had a friend bring over a 2 jaw puller and we had both sides out in 20 min. Don't waste your time doing it any other way. my .02
 
Deyman said:
My vote absolutely goes for the gear puller method! I tried every other method on that f***kin falsey torx "bolt" with no success. I had a friend bring over a 2 jaw puller and we had both sides out in 20 min. Don't waste your time doing it any other way. my .02

I also used the 2 jaw puller and some PB Blaster (rented a "front end repair kit" from local parts store) - very very easy this way.
 
If you do decide to use the heat and hammer technique, make sure you heat the bracket itself and not the stud. Then hammer on the stud with the four pound. This is the method I used on my '00, the bracket held up fine, but if you can press it out with a puller or a clamp, I'd try that first.
 
I agree with the jaw puller method, and cutting with a grinder if neccessary. I just finished the lift on my 91 and had problems with all kinds of bolts. Used a lot of PB, a grinder and a breaker bar. Have heard to many bad things about using heat.
 
he prob already poped those suckers out but i jsut want to stress the fact of how easy it is to heat and tap out thos bolts i personally don't like gear pullers or pitman arm pullers cause i have seen them shatter under normal conditions the tourch expands the metal and lets the bolt almost slid out. pluss you have to grind down the bolt so a gear puller will fit on just heat the bitch and give it a wack it'll be out in a jiffy. OO yea just don't grab the bolt right after it comes out they tend to be a little heavy when hot :)
 
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