stock gastank skidplate

I just got a stock gastank skidplate off ebay. It came off a '96. I assumed this will fit on my 2000 but now I'm wondering since I forgot that the older ones had metal tanks and mine is plastic. Anyone know if it'll fit? I know I should get the nutstrip for the drivers side but since I already have a class II reciever on there all I'm lacking is the nut for the farthest forward holes. Can I fish a carriage bolt in there and be done with it? I'm thinking that since the only force on it will be from below, that should be fine right?

I don't think the '96 skid will fit. There were two styles, one for the steel tanks and one for the plastic tanks. I believe the '96 used the old style.

I wouldn't trust a carriage bolt fished through the frame. The aftermarket hitch kits use a square steel plate the full width of the frame rail and probebly 3/16" or 1/4" thick to spread the load of each bolt, and some folks think even that's not enough.

If the skid you got has the right side plate curved around toward the front to act as a heat shield, it'll work. If it's symmetrical and doesn't include an integrated heat shield on the passenger side, it's the wrong one.

It's the wrong one and yes, replace the carriage bolts with nut strips. $20 from the stealership.

Urban Redneck said:

It's the wrong one and yes, replace the carriage bolts with nut strips. $20 from the stealership.

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Does anybody have a part number for nut strips? I just got a skid and need some of these myself.

PM SeanR...I forgot the numbers, but he had them at one time...do a search and you should come up with them.

You can call http://www.lambertauto.com/ They should still have the factory skid at a good price as well as the nut strip. They are an awesome dealership that ships everywhere and specializes in old inventory.

It will fit with a little mod. Rear edge has to be bent back about an inch. You will need to grind out two welds holding side in place, then bend it out. With my son and I pulling on it we go it to bend just fine. If you have a channel to put it in(we found a dumpster with a sliding door....put the lip in that channel) you can put the entire edge in there and pull the rest. Result, nice clean, consistent bend.

As they say, Necessity is the mother of invention. Got the skid cheap so I made it work.

thanks for the replys
crap so it is wrong. Well it was cheap so I guess I'll cut the welds and bend it, if that's all it takes then that's ok.
I still am not sure why I need the nutstrip if the only force on that part of the skidplate will be upwards straight into the frame, but I guess I should get one. If I remember correctly I only need the driver side one right?
thanks again

Maybe someone else has other ideas.

I do not trust the square metal "load spreading washers" from those aftermarket hitches for a hitch application. Probably just fine for a small trailer but not max towing capability.

For the skid plate I think there is nothing wrong with them. The only significant force the skid plate will ever see is up into the frame the only thing the bolts do is hold it in place.

I would get the nutstrips for the hitch not because of your new skid plate.

Michael