With a two foot piece of pipe or plastic tubing, you can listen to the injectors, they go clackity klack, when they are cycling. If they aren´t cycling, a CPS. test is in order. If they are cycling and you arn´t getting any fuel and your fuel pressure is OK, plugged injector screens, sounds like a possibility.
Fuel filter is always worth a look, fuel seperates and leaves a varnish type sludge behind.
Have heard that unpluging the CPS lead and pluging it back up, has helped some people with a no start.
A little squirt of Quick Start, down the old throttle body, may help tell if it´s fuel, spark or timing. Use it spairingly, it can cause motor damage. Check the inside of your air box and the air filter close, mice and birds have been known to take up residence in there. Might also have a close look at your wiring, for chew marks.
Last time mine refused to start, it was a loose connector, at the MAP sensor. Time before that, it was the five pin plug behind the relay block, full of water. Time before that, it was corrosion, in the distributor cap, was getting spark, but too weak to be much good. Spark looked kind of yellow and anemic (would occasionally pop, but wouldn´t run). Wifes XJ refuse to start, a weasel had been Chewing on the wiring and marking his territory in the engine compartment :wow: .
You mentioned you changed the distributor. Did you get it back in, in exactly the same way it came out. Meaning mostly, the rotor pointing to the same spot, on the old distributor and the new. Might be worth a few minutes, to pull the number one plug, turn the engine over until you feel compression, line up the "0" timing marks and check if the rotor is pointing towards the number 1, moulded into the top of your distributor cap (most have this). It will usually be a little after the number one electrode, but close enough for a quick check. Might also want to double check, the firing order, make sure the number 1 plug wire is hooked up to proper location on the cap, at TDC.
