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REAL Dana 35 weaknesses

d10shun

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Az
95, auto, soon to be 4:56 gears, powertrax locker, 32" tires, all types of wheelin, d35 c clip,

I hear all the time that the d35 is a weak axle. Ok, so in what areas and where is it likely to fail? Please be specific.

I wheel it all the time but am a careful driver, ie I don't gas it and bounce up and down. Slow and steady style.

I realize that the c clip holds the axle in. Is it weak only during lateral tension/pressure? Do JUST the clips break and if so can it be fixed with just a new clip? (provided that you stop driving)


Also, how much of a percentage is the axle weaker if numerically higher gears are installed?
 
You should be fine if you continue to wheel as you say you do now. Lots of stronger axles use c-clips and are fine. A couple major areas of weakness on 35s are the housing (easily bent), and the shafts themselves. If you are careful they will survive with 32s and higher gears. Usually it is said that higher gears weaken them more because that usually signals bigger tires but thats not the case here. Consider upgrading the shafts (Superior makes some nice ones) and trussing the housing, specifically the tubes.
 
fyi i saw an 8.25 for sale here for 100$
 
I don't know how it relates to normal wheeling, but it is possible on a D35 to bend the axles with high-impact pulling, so don't try to pull out stumps or stuck Chevy trucks with a chain. :doh:

The axles will bend (actually, more like a twist) at a point a few inches outboard of the diff. splines. Mine didn't break, but they made for a kind of jittery ride.

By the way, if anyone is wondering, the OEM factory "bumper" hitch is incredibly strong.
 
for a second there, i thought you were going to say you should pull people out with your axle as the tow point :confused1
 
I have a 35 c on my 88 with 33s a welded rear and stock gears. Have been running it as a hardcore trail rig for 2 years without any problem. The brakes are bad and i came upon a d44 under a $200 parts jeep, so I'm replacing it this winter, but not because it isn't strong enough for the green mountains.
 
Is there a way to beef up the c clip? I have heard of full circle clips - where do you get them? Also can the c clip be made out of a tougher material - like titanium?
 
d10shun said:
Is there a way to beef up the c clip? I have heard of full circle clips - where do you get them? Also can the c clip be made out of a tougher material - like titanium?


It's more than just the c-clip, the main issue with the D35 is the housing. Truss the housing, and be easy on it and it will hold up. Also bring spare shafts or upgrade to the 30 spline, Super Turdy!
 
The main point that has to be made here is, if you are worried about your D35 failing, it's time to upgrade. D44's or 8.8 or Toy axles can be found (cheaply if you do some shopping) and these are worth throwing money at, such as gears and lockers.

I have ran an early non-c-clip D35 with 4.10, came from an XJ with a 2.8l. It was cheap and I through a Lock-right in it. It work great for me with 33's, but being worried about breakage, I found a D44 for $100 and then went with 4.88's.
 
c-clip's arent really a problem with strength its a problem when you break the axleshaft because then there is nothing holding the wheel to the in. It becomes a mess on the trail trying to change one out. Also full-circle clips referr to u-joints not rear axle shafts. I would not waste my money upgrading a 35. For 200 bucks in a local junkyard you can get and 8.8 which is still c-clip but you wont have to worry about breaking shafts with 32s.
 
azxjman said:
c-clip's arent really a problem with strength its a problem when you break the axleshaft because then there is nothing holding the wheel to the in. It becomes a mess on the trail trying to change one out. Also full-circle clips referr to u-joints not rear axle shafts. I would not waste my money upgrading a 35. For 200 bucks in a local junkyard you can get and 8.8 which is still c-clip but you wont have to worry about breaking shafts with 32s.

That is exactly correct. The c-clips do nothing at all to strength. But when you break an axle your pulling the rear cover and the pin in the diff for the spider gears. There is no way to limp off the trail. A big PITA and possible a big mess if you break the bolt holding the spider gear pin in. That being said my 8.25 is a c-clip. Luckily I've never broke an axle.

Lower gears alone puts more stress on the axle shafts not just bigger tires. If your going to run the 35 make sure you carry spare shafts and some gear lube.

B-loose
 
I dissagree but I drive like I stole it! Broke the first non c-clip axle on the rock garden at Crawfords with a 84 2.5L running on 3 cylanders.... spun the tubes this year somehow b4 I got to tellico! I would not throw a dime at one! Get the 8.25 or 44 and be done!
 
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