Headlights don't work but other lighting does...

I just this morning noticed that in my '92 XJ I-6 the headlamps aren't coming on. Here's the symptoms:

Dashboard headlamp switch fully pulled into normal headlamp 'on' position.
No light from either headlamp
Parking lights working normally
Rear and front running lights working normallly
brake lights working normallly
Turn indicator lights working normally
When I try to go from high to low beams by pulling on the lefthand steering column lever both headlamps come on while I am pulling but go out when I release the lever.

I haven't hunted for this one yet. Haven't checked the fuse or relay. I have a FSM and can probably hunt this one down but I'm hoping that someone has already had this problem and knows what it is.

Any guesses?
Thanks!

you need to check to see if you have power at the bulbs if so then the bulbs are bad. if not yu need to check for power at the switch when in the headlamp position. the park and dash lights do use the same switch, obviously, but a different circuit.

Thanks! Headlamp bulbs are OK since the headlamps do come on when I pull on the high/low beam lever. They unfortunately go out when I release the lever. If there are multiple circuits within the dashboard headlamp switch then this could perhaps explain the problem. I'm not expecting a headlamp fuse since they work with the lever pulled. But maybe something about the lever bypasses the switch.

I'm going after the problem later today with the FSM electrical circuit diagram. Maybe I'll find the problem. Stay tuned.

Had some email from another user of indicating that his Jeep had the same symptoms, which he corrected by replacing the headlight switch.

Also reviewed the FSM and determined that the headlamp circuit is fairly simple. Just wiring from the dashboard switch thru the hi/lo beam switch on the steering column and then to the lamps. No relay.

The reason the lights come on with the hi/lo beam lever pulled is a Jeep feature: flash to pass. This must somehow route around the switch or use other contacts in the switch.

Decided to replace the headlight switch. Purchased one from Autozone for about $25. They, and Pep Boys, stock this item.

When a new XJ was built the first thing they put on the line was the headlamp switch. They assembled the XJ around it. Or so it seems.

So here's how I replaced mine:
Keep track of the type of screw removed at each point.

Disconnect negative terminal of the battery. Do this since some of the connectors later may short to the chassis after they are disconnected.

Remove the dashboard ash tray. Yes it's going to be a long day. There's a screw under it that holds the lower dashboard panel. Remove all the other obvious screws and a couple that come up from the bottom as well. There is some electrical mounted to this panel. Unplug wiring from these or disconnect them from the panel whichever is easier. Remove the lower dashboard panel.

Remove the bent rod support from the steering column attachment. Loosen both of the two nuts but don't remove. This will allow the steering column to sag down a little and give required clearance.

Remove the outer instrument bezel. This covers all the instruments, and the radio, heater, cig. lighter. There are 4 screws to remove, then gently unsnap the bezel from below. Lift it out and remove it from the vehicle.

Dismount the switches on both sides of the sttering column. These are held on by 1 screw each. Leave them hang on their wires. Dismount the cig. lighter (3 screws) and leave it hang.

Remove the 6 screws that hold the instrument panel. Don't remove the 4 that hold the clear lense over the gauges. Gently pull the console forward and remove the two connectors on the back side. Like all Jeep connectors, there are hooks that must be released to release these connectors. Remove the instrument panel.

OK, now the headlamp switch can be seen from above slightly.

Look at the replacement headlamp switch. There is a press button on the side opposite the electrical connections. Locate the same button (from below thru a hole in the lower dash bracketry) and press in. Withdraw the headlamp knob and lever as though you were turning on the headlamps, but the shaft will pull all the way out.

Unscrew the slotted collar thru which the headlamp button shaft passed. The headlamp switch is now free from the dash, but still within it.

Unplug the electrical connector from the switch. There are retainer hooks at opposite corners. Drop the switch down through the dash until it hangs on 1 remaining wire. Unplug this from the spade contact and remove the switch.

Test the shaft with the new switch prior to assembly into the vehicle. Mine was kinda tight.

While everything's apart it is a good time to clean out all the dust. You can remove the clear cover over the gauges and clean within it as well. The rubber knob on the trip odometer simply pulls off but be careful to hold the shaft when pulling it off.

Reverse above procedure to install the switch.

I noticed my headlamps started working as I wiggled the wires to the old switch prior to installation of the new one. Maybe there's a bad contact.

Time's expired to edit the previous post.

After completing the job and reconnecting the battery I discovered my headlamps work!! But the running lights didn't.

Took it all apart again and discovered that when I plugged the connector onto the new headlamp switch one of the prongs bent beneath the connector instead of inserting into the connector.

Oh well... I learned that the headlamp switch wiring harness and connector has enough slack to allow the switch to be installed onto the connector with the harness pulled out thru the dash. It's a trick but the single wire to the spade can be done in this position also.

I carefully checked all the exposed connectors to be sure that none of the exposed contacts were shorting to the vehicle chassis, then reconnected that battery (-) and tested the switch. All lights worked properly. Disconnected the battery and reinstalled everything.

Finally the lights work.

First time took about 2 hours. Second attempt took just over an hour. It's not really too bad if you have done it before.

How keeps the switch in stock? I have checked every were and cannt find one.

Another possibility is that the multi-way connector (10-way IIRC) in the left front fender behind the airbox is developing problems. It's fairly well known that there is a corrosion problem there. I lost my low beams as well as my parking lights before I figured out what was happening.