OLD MAN EMU Lift, Formula. Will it work

It is my intent to lift my currently stock, ’97 XJ, 3 inches and shod her with 30” tires. My final result desired is to build a “bullet proof” 4” - 4.5” with 31’s (although 33’s not completely beyond the realm of possibility). Primary use will be as a trail rig to get me to off road jump off points for hiking, outdoor activities, and possibly some Jeep Jamboree’s. It will be my daily driver and I am not willing to labor at the wheel on my frequent long trips from Camp Pendleton. I want the only limitation to be lift, and not the driveline. I am forced to do this in 2 phases and want to get it right; therefore I am seeking counsel from those with experience. My concern is with soundness and compatibility, I do understand opinions will vary on product manufacturer and appreciate the input. Thanks gents.

Phase 1 (January ‘05 when I return from Iraq.)
·Old Man Emu Lift (3”)
·JKS Disco’s
·JKS Upper and Lower Control Arms
·T and J Chassis Stiffener and Skid Rails
·JB Conversions NP231HD w/short shaft
·255/70/16 or 30” /9” wheel/Backspacing?
·F/winch Bumper
·R/Bumper w/tire Carrier
·Roof Rack
·Engine/X-fer/Fuel/ Rocker and Skid Pro
·MSD or Performance Distributors Ignition
·Thorley Headers and Gibson Exhaust
·Cold Air Intake
·Snorkel
·Improved Radiator
·DriveShaft?
·Brake Lines?
Wheew, There goes my Combat Zone Savings!

Phase 2 (January ‘06 when I return again)
Dana 44 Front End W/ARB and Hi Steer
Ford 9” Or Dana 44 rear with ARB
4.56 Gears
Increase Lift to 4” to 4.5”
Steering Box Brace
RE Cont/Arm Relocation Bracket
Steering Shaft and Stabilizers
FEnder Trimming and New Flares
When the engine dies/ Add Stroker
When Tranny goes/ Built Improved Auto
And then another deployments savings!

I have run OME for years now, and the ride is definately compromised once you go over 3.5" or so.
No need to spend the extra coin on OME to go to 4.5".
I had the same idea awhile back, and ended up keeping only the shocks and moving to RE springs.
HTH>

Yes, one of the things that has been driven home here is that it is not financially sound to 'sneak up' on the final desired lift height. I'd do the SYE first if the following is possible: Can you do a SYE and have a drive shaft built that will work from stock height to say 5" or won't that work. If you can get a DS that will work that way I'd do the SYE and DS before the lift I just don't know if they can build the shaft to cover that wide a range of lift.
Also keep in mind that with all that weight you are adding, bumpers, winch, tire carrier, armour you may need the next size up lift to compensate. Generally on a stocker adding a winch bumper costs about an inch and a half. My tomken rear bumper had no measureable effect on the rear of my 98XJ, well, maybe a 1/4 inch if that but I did not put the tire carrier on either so the spare is still inside.

As for the ingition mods, I've not seen or heard of ANY improvment, other than seat of the pants anecdotal, over the stock system as far as OBDII systems are concerned and I sure don't want a cone type filter. I like the box filter, when I get too deep in water the engine stalls before it can suck up any water. The header might get you a bit and the stock headers do crack so that can be justified as 'PMCS' Could go with a snorkel though
Might want to consider hood vents and improving cooling out there. Also might want to consider putting a bigger gas tank with built in skid, I think Aero makes a 27 or so gallon tank.
You could do alot of 'pre lift' setup though the lift install and bigger tires seems to give the most satisfaction and visible eye candy....
Just my thoughts...
Me, I just make improvements, putting brembo brakes on mine up front, still need to see what they have for the rear, I really want discs back there... been hunting for a totaled liberty with discs but no luck so far...

Phase 1 (January ‘05 when I return from Iraq.)
·Old Man Emu Lift (3”)
·JKS Disco’s
·JKS Upper and Lower Control Arms
·T and J Chassis Stiffener and Skid Rails
·JB Conversions NP231HD w/short shaft
·255/70/16 or 30” /9” wheel/Backspacing?
·F/winch Bumper
·R/Bumper w/tire Carrier
·Roof Rack
·Engine/X-fer/Fuel/ Rocker and Skid Pro
·MSD or Performance Distributors Ignition
·Thorley Headers and Gibson Exhaust
·Cold Air Intake
·Snorkel
·Improved Radiator
·DriveShaft?
·Brake Lines?
Wheew, There goes my Combat Zone Savings!

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To save some of your Combat Zone Savings - lose the JKS upper control arms;the MSD ignition;headers/exhaust and snorkel. Not sure why you feel the need for an "improved" radiator. My '98's stock radiator does a good job at cooling the engine. Get a tranny cooler instead. Get YJ brake-lines ('95), rather than spend money on braided aftermarket.

I'm curious as to the ' 3" OME suspension ' that you're planning. You can get a leaf spring with 3" of lift - the JC1A - but which coils are you planning on using in the front. Rather than going with the OME 930's, with a spacer, get the ZJ V-8 coils (OME 934) to better support the planned winch bumper and winch. Depending on the weight of your rear bumper, and what you carry in your vehicle when on the trail, you may also want to consider adding some spring-rate to the JC1A leafs - OME sells a full-length add-a-leaf (JCXL) that increases the JC1A rate by about 20%. To save money in the long run, I'd also go straight to 31" tires, rather than 30" tires. You'll be tall enough with OME "3" lift". I'd strongly consider adding a longer rear shackle and a coil spacer to balance things out. The rear leaf springs work much better with a longer shackle.....gee, you're already at your 4" of lift?! Since you're planning on doing the SYE kit anyway, don't worry about the extra height.

You forgot to mention getting a longer trackbar (JKS adjustable, or something similar).

Phase 2 (January ‘06 when I return again)
Dana 44 Front End W/ARB and Hi Steer
Ford 9” Or Dana 44 rear with ARB
4.56 Gears
Increase Lift to 4” to 4.5”
Steering Box Brace
RE Cont/Arm Relocation Bracket
Steering Shaft and Stabilizers
FEnder Trimming and New Flares
When the engine dies/ Add Stroker
When Tranny goes/ Built Improved Auto
And then another deployments savings!

Click to expand...

If you're going to go this route, then 35's ought be on the agenda.

it is a waste of money to lift 3" and 30" tires and then one year later lift more and 31"---especially when you're not even going to be around that much. you are eventually going to get to 33's AT LEAST, so start with RE 4.5" with cutting and a coil spacer and a bigger shackle for the rear...or just do the RE 5.5" extreme duty, non long arm because it really isn't that necessary. you WILL end up here eventually or will at least want to as long as you have your cherokee, so just do it from the beginning- you WILL save time and money.

Here comes my usual two cents:
Consider lifting lower and cutting your fenders higher. Fit bushwackers if you like the look, or TJ flares, or just run flareless. You will immediately be able to fit 31's with no lift, and will be able to run 33's on much less lift. I only say this because you mention that you want this to be your daily driver as well as a capable trail rig to get you to offroad departure points. Lifting the body off the ground another inch or two is not as important as larger wheels to lift your axles off the ground, skidplates and rocksliders will protect your undercarriage, and a good winch will pull you off of anything you get hung up on. A lower lift saves you from having to face driveline problems, and is generally cheaper. You can homebrew something in an afternoon if you want. Like DMMcG wrote, consider other mopar parts to create your own lift on the cheap. It depends on whether you want function, style or bragging rights. :laugh2:
Good luck, and have at it!
Buck :canada:

Thankyou all. RE6130 looks like a viable alternative. With all the weight it would likely settle. Adj CA are something of interest to me. JKS uses regular rubber bushings if I remember while others use Heim or spherical etc... How do those factor into the equation. Relocation brackets not necessary for 4.5" lift?

Thanks

jmc0369 said:

Relocation brackets not necessary for 4.5" lift?

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They aren't necessary, but I just installed them last week for my RE6130 and they made a huge difference. I've been driving the Jeep with the RE6130 for over a year and had grown accustomed to the shakes and bumps that occur everytime I hit a bump on the highway because of the control arm length. I stole this picture from JohnJohn in another thread; his lift is something around 10" I believe but the control arm angles are similar to the 4.5" using stock mounting locations:


The Drop Brackets move the control arm mounts lower and on a 4.5" they are just a few degrees above horizontal. When you hit bumps at speed, the force doesn't travel up the control arm before lifting the tire, and the ride is now smooth as buttah...almost. I ordered my RE6130 with adjustable LCAs, knowing that I intended to put DBs on later so you don't have to get the whole shebang right now.

It's easily done at the mainside Hobby Shop though; writeup on the 4.5" is at http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/45lift.html and I'm working on the DB writeup as well. Semper Fi.