1994 Sport, water pump bearing failed.
Replaced and still overheats. I have read that there is no need to bleed the system with the 1994 because it's not a closed system. Also that if it's heated up/cooled down a few times the air would escape. I have driven mine several times and it still gets hot, have to drive with the heat on to keep it out of the red.
I am assuming that by heating it up/cooling it down that the air would come out through the rad cap into the overflow tank. Is it possible I have a bad rad cap not allowing it to escape? Or do I need to bleed by removing the coolant passage plug on the back of the head, with the front end in the air? When I first drove it after the w/p install I pulled over a few times and R&R'd the rad cap and it cooled down a lot.
Thanks,
Turtle
p.s anybody got a red front passenger door in the MN metro area, minimal rust is fine. 4 door.
Replaced and still overheats. I have read that there is no need to bleed the system with the 1994 because it's not a closed system. Also that if it's heated up/cooled down a few times the air would escape. I have driven mine several times and it still gets hot, have to drive with the heat on to keep it out of the red.
I am assuming that by heating it up/cooling it down that the air would come out through the rad cap into the overflow tank. Is it possible I have a bad rad cap not allowing it to escape? Or do I need to bleed by removing the coolant passage plug on the back of the head, with the front end in the air? When I first drove it after the w/p install I pulled over a few times and R&R'd the rad cap and it cooled down a lot.
Thanks,
Turtle
p.s anybody got a red front passenger door in the MN metro area, minimal rust is fine. 4 door.