6x9 Speakers In 93' Sport

Hi all,

Just a quick question regarding how to install a set of 6x9 speakers in the rear hatch of my 93' Sport. I just upgraded the head unit and all four speakers to nice Pioneer 5 1/4 inch, but my problem is that I can't turn them up loud enough to hear clearly on the freeway, b/c they start to distort due to the bass being sent from the head unit (with the bass taken out, they are WAY too trebly).

So, I'd like to add some 6x9's to help make up for that lack of bass (FWIW, I'm into mostly classic rock - Beatles, Grank Funk etc.... so I really don't need a sub setup) and I just wanted to know how "involved" it is to replace the 5 1/4's in the hatch.

If memory serves, when I replaced the factory speakers, access was no problem, but I just don't have a router to bore out the sheetmetal to make 6x9's fit....

Should I just take it to a stereo shop to install ? Although, I'd like to do it myself if I can, so I can feel that sense of accomplishment.

Thx,
Quarterwave

I don't think 6 x 9's are going to fit in the hatch. I was able to get some 5 x 7's in there, with some hacking. I don't think the hatch is deep enough.

Rob

I put some 6x9's in the hatch of my '93. All it took was a hole saw and a dremel to cut through the fiberglass. They sound a lot better than it did before, even though they cheap speakers. The bass hits surprisingly well. They're certainly not a replacement for a good amp and sub, but I've been happy with them.

if you cant hear them and the bass is overpowering then the head unit isnt putting out. a 45 watt per channel head unit only puts out like 3 watts or so on average... i dont think its your speakers. try getting an external amp and using the headunit (through the LINE OUT if you dont have a line out, then buy an adaptor or you will fry your new amp)

this allows more power and cleaner signal. aftermarket non-headunit amps are much cleaner and clearer than the in-head unit amps. Idealy a person would have their control and source (headunit) seperate from their amp, and seperate from their speakers. Just make sure that if you go this route you get positive power for the amp from the battery (for cleanest signal...)


i work with audio for stage and things, and didnt like my cd player/amp unit and bypased the amp inside the headunit and went for an external amp mounted in the cubby in the rear where everyone puts their compressors, subs, and everything else they want to make look stock when its not.

have fun

XJ_Ranger

Another trick to improve the sound that I once used is to use an MDF or chipboard "frame" to put your speaker onto, and then screw the frame to the body - it moves the speaker out from the body, and gives a richer sound. The only trouble with doing that is making it look professional.

Thx guys - actually, I can hear the speakers plenty loud - the problem is that they don't handle much bass (and I really mean a little bit of bass - not even enough to make the side mirrors move), and as soon as I turn the volume up to about a quarter of the deck's limit, it sounds like the cones are bouncing.

FWIW, the deck is a really nice, brand new Pioneer MP3-compatible deck - just installed about a month ago which I heard through a range of speakers at the place I bought it at, and it had more than enough volume for me.

FWIW, I'm also involved in the music industry - for 10 years I owned an operated a P.A hire company, and currently I'm a professional musician that is around BIG P.A systems most days, so the last thing I want to hear driving home is a bass heavy monster sub-woofer system ! I just want to be able to turn up the tunes I like loud enough to be able to clearly hear them at highway speeds without sounding like too much power is being delivered to the speakers - like it sounds now when I turn it up.

Again guys, thanks for all the tips - I think I might just grab some thin-line Cerwin Vegas, and a dremel and see what happens.

B Rgds,
Quarterwave

Like I said, the MDF trick improves the sound by lifting the speaker out from the bodywork slightly, thereby creating a more effective acoustic behind the cone, improving bass and the sound in general.