best intake w/ tb spacer?

Im wonderin what the best intake and tb spacer setup is 4 my 95 cherokee 4.0l ho. I was looking at airaids but heard they dont work w/ho engines?

I am using a Rubicon Express throttle body with a twin air ( foam, reusable ) filter. I have had my rig on a dyno and have seen the relults. 16hp with an additional 12ftp of tourque. The twin air does not have a exemption # on it so if you decide to get one be sure to keep your stock air box so you can use it when the time to get you rig smogged comes around, same for the throttle body. I have heard that the exemption # for the throttle body is on its way. Happy shopping.

16 hp from just a throttle body and intake? Got dynosheets?





You can do like a rustys intake or a custom one with a k&n cone and then the TB spacer, will work fine

Most stuff only works on HOs, not non HOs...

16hp sounds a bit high just for a high flow filter and spacer

Agree. I would say 10hp from the combination of free-flow intake, bored TB spacer, and bored TB is more realistic.
I have a homebrew FIPK, 62mm bored Poweraid TB spacer, and modified Mustang 65mm TB (installed only six weeks ago in place of 62mm bored Jeep TB) on my strokered XJ.
________________________________________________________________
Dino's "Mean Green Machine"
1992 XJ Laredo 4-dr - 4.6L I6 HO Stroker - 176k miles - AX15, NP231, D35c, D30

Estimated 263hp/323lbft, best 1/4 mile [email protected] before stroker install
Websites - Jeep 4.0 Performance, 4.6L Stroker Build-Up, Dino's Jeep Tricks

outfitterguy said:

I am using a Rubicon Express throttle body with a twin air ( foam, reusable ) filter. I have had my rig on a dyno and have seen the relults. 16hp with an additional 12ftp of tourque. The twin air does not have a exemption # on it so if you decide to get one be sure to keep your stock air box so you can use it when the time to get you rig smogged comes around, same for the throttle body. I have heard that the exemption # for the throttle body is on its way. Happy shopping.

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The RE throttle body is a 62mm TB, along with a cone filter setup 16hp sounds about right.
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynamic/mainpage.asp?folderid=786

Dyno, do you have a write up yet for the mustang TB? I would like to do that when I bolt the 2000 intake on my stroker. I have most of the internal tricks done so I'm back to bolt-ons again.

CW said:

The RE throttle body is a 62mm TB, along with a cone filter setup 16hp sounds about right.
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynamic/mainpage.asp?folderid=786

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I don't think so. It didn't feel like I gained anywhere near 16hp after I installed my own FIPK and 62mm TB. Maybe the red anodized finish adds another 8hp.

CW said:

Dyno, do you have a write up yet for the mustang TB?

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Yes I do. It's here. Speaking of bolt-ons, I have an Ishihara-Johnson crank scraper coming in the mail. They gave it to me free because I put a link to their site on my performance website. I thought that was very cool of them. :kissyou: In case you're wondering where their site is, it's here:

http://www.crank-scrapers.com/products/amc-jeep.html

dino, keep us posted on how the crank scraper works out


btw, are you worried about putting it in you oil pan? didn't we discuss the oil pickup and whatnot earlier?

will that work with a 258 crank?

I've got the crank scraper now. It's the 12-counterweight version for a stroker (same as early 258). The guy at Ishihara-Johnson assures me that there'll be no fitment problems. I hope he's right.
I wish I'd had the scraper three months ago before I'd finished the stroker so I could have installed it then. That way I wouldn't have needed to remove the oil pan again. It's a shame that it doesn't come in a red anodized finish like the RE 62mm TB so that it can produce an extra 8hp more than it does already (my guess is a 5hp gain @ 5000rpm for the scraper).

I love to see all the silly replies about the information I posted about the Rubicon Express throttle body (yes in anodized red). I think it is crazy that people are even arguing about how well something like this works. A throttle body is not a new product to the automotive industry, they have been around for years. As far as dyno tests go: gear ratio, tire and wheel size, elevaton, air temp, fuel octane, and a bunch of other things can influence the dyno. A 10 degree temp change at a different elevation can change the dynamics of horsepower easily by 5, throw in a few other factors and who knows where it might go. I put my experience of how a product worked for me, to help out a fellow wheeler, not to have an argument over factual information. PS you can probably get your "scraper" anodized by an outside source for about a hundred bucks...not bad if you think that will get you 8hp.

I wasn't argueing with anyone. I just pointed out that the poster said a TB not a spacer gave him those gains. I agree the condition of the motor and any other mods or enviomental factors can effect dyno results. What ever...... I don't feel like getting in a ****ing contests over hp gains. I will probably go get my entire engine anodized red tommarow. :moon:

outfitterguy said:

PS you can probably get your "scraper" anodized by an outside source for about a hundred bucks...not bad if you think that will get you 8hp.

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:roflmao: That's a great idea. Why didn't I think of that?
I just wanted to emphasize that you're not going to gain as much as 16hp just from an RE bored TB and free-flow filter. That way you won't have people flooding over to RE to pay $350 for their TB because they think they're going to gain so much HP, when what they're really paying for is the pretty red anodized finish. Accurate Power's 62mm TB costs a lot less ($200) and I'm sure it'll produce the same HP gain as the RE version.
For me, even $200 was too much so I stripped down my spare stock TB to the bones, took it to a local machine shop, had it bored out to 62mm on a lathe, and made my own oversize stainless steel throttle plate. Total cost? $110 ($70 for the junkyard TB + $40 for the modification). Now that's what I call a good bang-per-buck mod, and I still have a spare TB that I can sell!

turns out i have a spare tb sitting here, did you writeup how you made the throttle plate? i'd like to try, i could use saving some money right now...

outfitterguy said:

I love to see all the silly replies about the information I posted about the Rubicon Express throttle body (yes in anodized red). I think it is crazy that people are even arguing about how well something like this works. A throttle body is not a new product to the automotive industry, they have been around for years. As far as dyno tests go: gear ratio, tire and wheel size, elevaton, air temp, fuel octane, and a bunch of other things can influence the dyno. A 10 degree temp change at a different elevation can change the dynamics of horsepower easily by 5, throw in a few other factors and who knows where it might go. I put my experience of how a product worked for me, to help out a fellow wheeler, not to have an argument over factual information. PS you can probably get your "scraper" anodized by an outside source for about a hundred bucks...not bad if you think that will get you 8hp.

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I agree that seemingly small things will skew your results with dyno tests so you need to be careful. I had run a series of roller dyno pulls about two weeks prior on an engine. The scraper I had then installed showed a small improvement over them and the shop owner wanted to stop there. Instead while he had it on the lift for the dyno I drained and saved the oil, pulled the pan, removed the scraper and reinstalled the pan. This took about 30 minutes so the environmental conditions at the shop were for all practical purposes the same. I then reused the oil that I had just drained (10w-40 dino). I had put this oil in fresh the night before so it had maybe 60 miles driving time on it. I left the original filter in place.

When the next four pulls were done the dyno showed an average increase of 3% hp with the scraper in place (data ranged from 2.5% to 3.5%). Power increased from about 2750rpm to 5300rpm. If I had not wanted to be rigorous about it these results would have been missed.

The engine was a tiny stock 993cc three-cylinder Metro engine with a full windage tray (the AMC straight sixes don't have a windage tray, remember).


Kevin Johnson

Ishihara-Johnson Crank Scrapers

xjfrank said:

turns out i have a spare tb sitting here, did you writeup how you made the throttle plate? i'd like to try, i could use saving some money right now...

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I don't have a write-up but it's easy to make a throttle plate. Just use your old stock plate as a template and make the new one exactly 2mm bigger in diameter out of stainless steel. Drill the holes for the screws in exactly the same place and you should have no fitment problems.
Oh Kevin, thanks for sending me the scraper. Hopefully I'll get it installed soon so I can assess the results.