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35's with 3.5'' lift

Ya, so they fit while parked on the street. Big deal. Will they fit if you actually wheel it?
 
I don't see why it wouldn't work with the right backspacing on the wheels and some good bumpstops. Looks good, I like the TJ flares by the way.
 
bbaker80 said:
I don't see why it wouldn't work with the right backspacing on the wheels and some good bumpstops. Looks good, I like the TJ flares by the way.
Click to expand...
True but his articulation will go to shit.

The way to do this RIGHT is the way CheapXJ did it. But it's gonna take more sawblades than that.
 
As it sits yes things are going to rub, but with more work 35's with a 3.5" lift is doable. Flat out saying "NO" isn't going to help. Sure you might loose a ton of uptravel, but if you're not running rocks, and playing in mud, the big tires are going to be a lot better than having a rig that can ramp 900+.
 
32's would let that rig articulate great. Since my lift is an actual 4.5", I have 32's, but I'm bumping to 33" or 34" once I got to 6.5"

RE underrates their lifts, which is another reason why you were probably able to fit those 35's.
 
bbaker80 said:
As it sits yes things are going to rub, but with more work 35's with a 3.5" lift is doable. Flat out saying "NO" isn't going to help. Sure you might loose a ton of uptravel, but if you're not running rocks...
Click to expand...
cheap has 3" LFIT AND 36's with plenty of articulation. it most definetly can be done, you just have to do it right.
 
I should have been more specific. I said NO. As in the way it sits it will rub. Probably at the rear parts of the wheel well. And they will probably rub the LCAs at lock.

I had 35s with 4.5" and had no probs. But I cut the piss out of my fenderwells. :lecture:
 
You probably got a lot more than 3.5" with that lift. I have 3" and 33s and and they rub the fenders at fill flex (which cut the tires). They do not rub while driving on street though.
 
I like it, and am planning on doing it, possibly with less lift. I would take it out a little and find out where it rubs, then cut, and repeat. I am thinking if I mount the flares at the body line, it will be ok. I have been watching some 4 wheeler stuff, and I see lots of guys breaking from crazy articulation. Where I will be wheeling, I think the big meats will help better than articulation. Besides, I want to keep it simple and everything in alignment... just a thought.
 
labdo86 said:
Hey guys, just wanted to let you in on a shocking discovery. I have a RE 3.5'' lift and just finished a TJ fender flare conversion (4 rears). I put a brand new BFG Mud Terrain 35'' on and it fit with about 6 inches to spare. Check out the link for the picture.
http://208.226.173.146/xj_35_tire_test.htm
Click to expand...
How long have you had the 3.5" lift on? Cause you might be in or a big surprise when it settles! Also as some others mentioned fit and usability are two different things. I feel that my 33's are just about as much as I'd stick on 4.5" RE cause I want to have both up and down travel.
 
Ludakris said:
I like it, and am planning on doing it, possibly with less lift. I would take it out a little and find out where it rubs, then cut, and repeat. I am thinking if I mount the flares at the body line, it will be ok. I have been watching some 4 wheeler stuff, and I see lots of guys breaking from crazy articulation. Where I will be wheeling, I think the big meats will help better than articulation. Besides, I want to keep it simple and everything in alignment... just a thought.
Click to expand...
I think its CheapXJ.com
but do a search for members under CheapXJ, he has a link and he is great for answering questions.
oops. here is a link...
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31850
 
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I'm running 285's (33x11.50) on my 3.5" lift (settled and measured at actual 3.5") and I never rub in the rear (trimmed and hammered back, but didn't cut the pinch seam, no bumpstops), front is trimmed a ton so I don't rub there either (3" extended bumpstops). I run 16x8 wheels with 4.25" BS. 34's or 35's would be close in the rear and I don't believe you could do it without rubbing or without losing uptravel, unless you're willing to cut past the seam, and then you can run whatever you want.
 
it's a little taller in the back now, I sorta did some weight reduction :D

xjchop2.jpg


xjchop3.jpg


I'm really curious as to how this will affect rear wheel articulation. the springs are fairly stiff all around, and they might not flex as well now. (it'll be better w/ the cage done)

I don't know, we'll have to see :D

I just got a quote today for a custom made canvas softtop too I'm gonna cut out the sunroof and run a soft top similar to the ones on them old trackers where you can roll the front half back and then run the cage inside what's left of the roof sheetmetal, come down the a pillar and tie into my rocker which is getting boatsided something fierce. basically, the rocker will be starting right at the bottom of where the front flare is cut, and it'll follow that body line. gonna just fold the floor up to it from the "framerail" out.

should be pretty fawkin sweet :gee:
 
I have the 3.5 RE kit with 33x9.50x15s on stock rims. I have done plenty of trimming on the front and a little too much on the rear. That rear 33 barely stuffs and I rub the LCA at full lock.
MotorNoggindropin.jpg
 
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