R-12 A/C on an 91 xj how to charge?

My dad has the kit to convert it to 134-a but I'm not sure which is the line to feed the compressor and which is to remove the coolant?
There are two lines does any one know which is the on to feed the compressor?
its on an 1991 xj with a 4.0 high output, auto.
Thanks for any help.Legacy.

the r-12 should be removed properly by a shop with the right equipment. it is illegal to let it go out into the atmosphere. before recharging the system, a good vacuum must be on the system. then you can carge it through the low (suction) side with the engine running and the a/c turned on. that will draw the refrigerant into the system. it should take aboout 2.25 lbs. you should notice there are no more air bubbles in the sight glass in the dryer.

yeah i had what little if any R-12 removed, there are no are bubbles in the sight glass, i just need to find out which is the line to feed the compressor?
i haven't had A/C for the last two years which sucks.

if you havent corrected the source of the leak, your'e going to lose the new refrigerant a well.

who said i had a leak?
well thanks for the help.

Legacy said:

yeah i had what little if any R-12 removed, there are no are bubbles in the sight glass, i just need to find out which is the line to feed the compressor?
i haven't had A/C for the last two years which sucks.

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you did. if you didnt have a leak, you would have removed more than a little.

Well i didn't remove any of the R-12, when i took it to the shop the mecanich told me that there wasent very much R-12 left in the compressor.
so i can only go by what he told me. "some people say the glass is half full well others say that the glass is half empty."

Nope I never said it had a leak, I bought the xj from my family friend it was his wife's car tell 1995 then she got an new car so they kept the xj as a spare car, they also used it when they went camping so I can't imaging that there would be all that much R-12 left in an 13 year old compressor.

i don't know if this will help or not but on my 1990 cherokee there are two hoses coming from behind on the top...the hose on the left is a bit smaller than the one on the right. with the conversion kit i got two new valves that screw onto the part of the compressor where each hose goes into...one of the valves is bigger, that one screws into the left side with the smaller hose...the smaller valve screws into the right side where the larger hose is at. on mine you charge it through the valve on the right side. i was told to get a can of the a/c oil...you find it in a can right with the 134a refrigerant. use the whole can of the oil and then 2 or 3 (can't remember) cans of refrigerant. you can get a guage that attaches to the recharge hose so you don't put in too much. you recharge with the car running and the ac on max on high. there should be directions on the can as to exactly how. anyway i am sorry if this doesn't help but i hope that it does.

brian

Just a recommendation, with the system evacauted remove the drying tower and replace it. It has a drying element in it that absorbs moisture. It is recommended that this tower be replaced anytime the A/C system is opened to air or is older than 3 years, the element stuff breaks down and can clog the system. When the system has been closed back up the correct amount of PAG oil needs to be added to provide lube to the compressor then the R134A is added and a good shop will add R134A with a UV additive that will allow you to spot leaks with a black light and UV goggles that amplify the yellow dye.
I'm going thru that now with my 98's system, we vacumned the system out couple or three weeks ago, it just quit on me on friday, taking it up for a 'lights out' inspection and I hope it is the condenser leaking in front of the radiator, it has enough bent fins in it so I can hope, when I replace that I'll be putting another drying tower in there too before I recharge it. I have a small hand held pencil size UV light and some of the spots light up but I that could also be from bug pieces too....

thanks for the positive input slikinchiken,RichP i want to get my A/C running again sucks cause it's hot as fu-ck.
i'll look into getting an new element, but i don't have to much cash so it's going to have to wait.
Thanks for all the quality feed back I had a little trouble getting a straight answer with this post at the beginning. Legacy.

The biggie is the condensor under the dash in the heater box, if that is leaking that a SOB to fix, the whole dash has to come apart to get at it. Most places charge between 6 and 8 hours labor for that one. I just did the contortion exercise with my hand held UV trying to get a look under there inside the floor vents, no yellow so I can still hope that it is something else. The drying tower I mentioned is like $40 online.

thanks again rich, hope you find your leak.
where did you get your uv glasses?

There was a kit at the parts store, came with the glasses and the UV pen, $12 I think. Made by the same people that make the A/C refill kits. The glasses are just safety glasses that are yellow.

next time i go to the parts store i'll see if they don't have any.
how much was it to have an shope fill up your compressor?
don't have to much cash, i wanted to try and get it fixxed this summer but guess i'm not going to but maybe this fall/winter.

I take care of the computers and network at a repair shop as well as the snap-on/Mitchell software, keep his stuff running and he goes to our church so repairs only cost me materials but I have access to all the tools which he is teaching me to use. I just finished designing and building a positive pressure server case that supplies filtered air for him with a BIG Fram air filter and a Mr. Gasket 4bbl chrome filter cover he was eating dvd/rom drives at the rate of 2 every couple of months from sucking in all the stuff from the shop areas and suppliers were getting pissy after my 6th return under warranty. Had to start blowing out the big chunks before returning them... Adding a big dual 4bbl cobra air cleaner on the top this weekend with two big hefty boxer fans out of a VAX11 so the case stays at positive pressure and won't suck anything unfiltered in. In short we take care of each other and it works out.
The big one is to find the leak, fix it, have the system vacumned down to at least -20lbs and then watch the gauge for an hour or two to make sure. Then the oil goes in and then the freon goes in. You could vac the system down yourself, harbor freight makes a 110v vac pump thats pretty cheap but you would also need a vac gauge and maybe a regulator or valve so once you reached the correct vacumn level you could stop the bleed down. Now that I'm starting to see the professional stuff work I'm coming up with other ideas on how to NOT spend $1500-$2000 on a tool....

cool sounds like you have a cool set up. well thanks for all the input should be able to knock this A/C problem out of the park.
i just hope i can get it up and running soon suck pick up a girl and you don't have any A/C.