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Painting Engine Parts Black

BIGSLVRXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
Is there any rule against painting engine parts black? By engine parts I mean Valve Cover, Exhaust Manifold, Intake Manifold Heat Shield, and Master Cylinder Lid, and also possibly fuel rail. I have painted my current valve cover black already and did it like a month ago. The only thing I've noticed is the valve cover seems to stay hot a long time but I dont know if thats from the paint or not. Also should I truly "bake on" the paint. I got heat-resistant but a friend of mine still said to throw it in the oven. Any info is greatly appreciated.
Collin
 
The new valve covers were black from the factory, and I believe the 4-cyl valve covers were always black. No rule against it that I can think of.
 
There was a study and some discussion, 15-20 years ago. The gist of it was, that a black engine (or black heat source), passes heat better, than most any other color.
In my experience, gloss paints, seem to last a little longer than flat or matt. Have found some gloss engine paints over the years that lasted well. Of course many of the true high temp. paints are flat or matt.
 
Well it sounds like I'm good to go. Do I need to somehow bake it on or not? Or..... should I just let each part sit in the sun for a day?
 
8Mud said:
The gist of it was, that a black engine (or black heat source), passes heat better, than most any other color.

I think it has more to do with paint type then color.... the color has to do with energy exchange and absorption due to radiation and frequencies and it's been too damn long since I had to study about that (and too many beers tonight) for me to make more sense on that topic :D
 
Get sober Kejtar so we can talk paint,naw I'm just kidding. I think I will probably just end up spraying the things and maybe hit them with a hairdryer or something. Thanks for the help so far guys and if anyone else has more suggestions on the topic please post.
Collin
 
I wouldn't paint the heat shields, intake manifold, or fuel rail. Heat shield is supposed to be somewhat reflective, and the fuel rail and itake would absorb more of that passed on heat if black. Not sure the cumulative effect would be desireable.

If you want it purty (and can spare the downtime) take the aluminum stuff to a polishing shop and it'll come back looking like chrome (except it won't rust).
My brother polishes metal, and also fabs some cool stuff out of stainless, for a living. Ever see the shiny body of a Marathon Coach? Every time he gets another rig the first thing he does is take off all the cast aluminum parts like valve covers, intake manifolds, and alternator frames, and polishes them. Looks very nice.
 
Really, well my valve cover is pretty dirty, will it still polish up? How much is an average charge on that sort of thing? Just valve cover. The exhaust manifold is going to get painted mainly so it doesn't crack. The heat shield and fuel rail I'll just clean and/or polish myself but that valve cover would look good in a chrome-like effect. Get back to me.
 
Dave in Eugene said:
I wouldn't paint the heat shields, intake manifold, or fuel rail. Heat shield is supposed to be somewhat reflective, and the fuel rail and itake would absorb more of that passed on heat if black. Not sure the cumulative effect would be desireable.

Ditto to what Dave said.

If the part you are painting is hotter than it's surroundings, black will help it radiate heat. If it's cooler, black will help it absorb heat. Keep in mind that the thermo properties of the paint or coating used could override the gains due to color.

Painting the block, head, valve cover etc. black can aid in cooling. For the exhaust manifold, you want to retain heat so black isn't such a good idea. The heat shield, as Dave mentioned would work better as a reflector so shiny white or silver would work. An insulating mat or layer attached to the heat shield would help as well.
 
I don't know what a shop that normally does small stuff would charge, I just know about my brother & not much about that industry in general. His shop usually does big stuff - mainly those bus bodies for Marathon and their clients (movie stars, rock bands and such). He just does his own stuff for fun.

He was looking over my recently acquired XJ and dreaming of the possibility, but we are't even sure that valve cover is aluminum & not that die cast pot metal stuff (we are gonna pull it someday and get a better look, or maybe somebody here knows). If it is aluminum a good scrubbng with soap and water and removal of any paint would get it ready. He'd start by sanding down as much as possible with 200 grit then get after it with a rag wheel and an abrasive compound they get by the drum that I only know as green sh!t. It's not rocket science though, you could actually do it yourself at home with the compound, wheels, and a big electric grinder like welders use. Intake is for sure aluminum, and I never took notice of the fuel rail on the 4.0, but many of them are stainless. Heat shield, though probably just plain sheet steel, could also be polished to look presentable, but nickel plating would be better. My brother doesn't do plating anymore, too durn many environmental concerns these days. The government still checks test wells for nickel on a regular basis and they haven't done plating for ten years.
 
I would have to agree that the color of the paint wouldnt really matter for heat. The type of paint and possibly the finish of the paint would matter. As far as heat dissipation, the polishing of certain items my not be the ticket. Rough surfaces have more surface area and those ridges can help by acting like cooling fins, its marginal but its there. The only reason i wouldnt do it is because its hard to trace oil leaks against a black background. I prefer lighter colors, but I am sure mine will just stay O-Natural.
 
MaXJohnson said:
If the part you are painting is hotter than it's surroundings, black will help it radiate heat. If it's cooler, black will help it absorb heat. Keep in mind that the thermo properties of the paint or coating used could override the gains due to color.
How would the color help radiate heat in such a situation? The properties of paint would be the only thing I can think of (like the special paint I bought to paint a rusted diff cover).
 
When I used to build vw and porsche engines for buggies I always painted em flat black for heat, black radiates better.. and on an air cooled thats a big deal.
 
RichP said:
When I used to build vw and porsche engines for buggies I always painted em flat black for heat, black radiates better.. and on an air cooled thats a big deal.

OK, can someone point me to a refernce that talks about this? Black is better at absorbption of heat but I can't find any refernce to it radiating heat better. Also since the color is on the outside it'd absorb heat from sun better thus heat up the motor (in the vw case since it's exposed) thus working against the original reason that it got painted black.
 
A quick class in thermodynamics might be in order. You get into Plank's constant and a bunch of other quantum theorms, but a in short, black has a higer emissivity factor. Meaning it radiates heat better. Lots of factors figure in. Here is a link to a chart to give you some ideas.

http://www.electro-optical.com/bb_rad/emissivity/matlemisivty.htm

So for you guys who want to polish the aluminum or chrome it, check out how well it will radiate heat after you do that.
 
Kejtar said:
OK, can someone point me to a refernce that talks about this? Black is better at absorbption of heat but I can't find any refernce to it radiating heat better. Also since the color is on the outside it'd absorb heat from sun better thus heat up the motor (in the vw case since it's exposed) thus working against the original reason that it got painted black.

Heat radiating ability is based on the emissivity of the material and color. Most colors have an emissivity approaching .85 to .95 including gloss black at .95. Flat black can be .97 to .99. The worst colors to use would be silver or gold at .55 & .40. Rusty cast iron is around .90 and oxidized aluminum .10 to .30. Polished aluminum .010.

I work in the electric utility industry and have read tests on oil filled transformers painted different colors. True to the preceding numbers, flat black transformers disipate heat the best and silver the worst.
 
MaXJohnson said:
Heat radiating ability is based on the emissivity of the material and color. Most colors have an emissivity approaching .85 to .95 including gloss black at .95. Flat black can be .97 to .99. The worst colors to use would be silver or gold at .55 & .40. Rusty cast iron is around .90 and oxidized aluminum .10 to .30. Polished aluminum .010.

I work in the electric utility industry and have read tests on oil filled transformers painted different colors. True to the preceding numbers, flat black transformers disipate heat the best and silver the worst.


So why are they all painted gray ???
 
RichP said:
So why are they all painted gray ???

'cause they're usually out in the sunlight where absorbing heat is the issue rather than radiating it.
 
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